wadrew

I had my cmore crap out... the dot would bink on only during recoil. Finished the stage without a mike. Battery tab where it is soldered to the printed circuit board... cold/shocked out connection. I grabbed my allen wrenches, butane soldering iron, solder, took the cmore off the frame, popped off the bottom cover, heated and put some fresh solder on the conneciton.....put the cmore back on, sighted in at an unused bay (with the MD's permission) and back with the squad a stage later. If someone is good at board-level assembly/electronics, they could be very valueable at a match. Unless your lens pops out, I can usually fix it within 30 minutes....

I think it's time to get the dogs some backpacks with holsters and mag pouches on them... I'll start them off easy with airsoft pistols.

I couldn't get a sv 140mm 38/9 tube anywhere in the country! Isn't that just the best thing in the world?? I think it is! DUTY STICKS FOR CARRY AND BIG STICKS FOR BACKUP!!!! YEAH BABY!!

I hope the reverse gear works on your tractor. Mine broke in the gearbox and it's LONG been off warranty. I hate defective/damaged equipment!

Here they are: "that's death on a relationship" -- The only thing that kill a relationship is what we choose to or allow to bring any degree of ruin into a relationship. "I'm okay" -- There are differing degrees of okay. I wish people would awnser the question instead of avoiding it. Be freaking real.... how someone is doing is not like a 0% or 100% light switch. If you don't want to awnser, then say something like...."could I think about it?" or "let me get back to you on that" or "Could I not awnser that right now?"

I use a hard rubber mallet, a ground-down miniature cresent wrench (so theat it fits into the mag far enough), diamond files (to file out any burrs) and a small round cray-tex fine abrasive tip in the dremel. really important to polish them once tuned. I run 0.350" in the back and taper to 0.360" in my supercomp, I run 0.360" in the back and taper to 0.370" in mu super, I run 0.390" in the back and taper to 0.400" in my aet/std 0.40 shcuemann. These dimensions, I think, are a good average between SVI/STI/dawson for the SVI/STI tubes. You can get a magazine mandrel that fits inside the tube so that it is harder to bend the tube out-of-square when tuning. (brownells/grams)

Hey guys, I prefer one lube above all. Most work okay for some conditions, but one works the best in all of them. GunButter. Soak then Clean your gun with paint thinner, carb cleaner, whatever solvent that won't harm your finish and does not contain any lubricants. Use a toothbrush, old t-shirt, and some q-tips. Clean and bone dry. Apply the gunbutter lightly to ALL of the shiny or wear/contact areas of the gun. You can use too much of the lube and it won't gum up. To re-clean, just wipe it clean and dry with a clean cloth/toothbrush/q-tip method (no solvents the 2nd time you clean it after shooting it) and re-lube. No need for solvents any more. It has detergents in it. (but no solvents) It displaces contaminants (carbon/gunpowder/dirt/dust/water), and stays put even better than mobile-1. Doesn't get gummy or thick like other lubes, and works just as well at 10 degrees f as it does 110 degrees f. No need to ever re-lube during a shoot. Won't slow down slide velocity. great for hammer/sear surfaces, since it is very temperature tolerant and won't change the metal surfaces. www.gunbutter.com www.xd-gear.com Try it and you will not be dissapointed. Many lubes work well, but this stuff works the best in every gun and every condition that I have tried.

If the extractor is twisting or clocking and rotating in the extractor tunnel, it is more than likely a fit issue with the firing pin stop. I would suggest replacing both if it looks like it rotates at all. Also, if the extractor falls out of the extractor tunnel after you've tuned it (it is tight going in), it has lost its temper and needs to be replaced.

I use a long continuous raduis type slide stop on all my blasters.... I tried the short radius and the 45 drgree angle types, and the longer smoother radius type causes less dwell in the slide action. I have noticed less muzzle rise (flatter shooting) with this type. The 45 degree one let my muzzle flip up more before the slide came back, causing a 'bouncier' recoil. I usually polish my FP stop and stone the disconnector rail (white india stone then white ceramic ruby stone), then I polish the contacted areas on the hammer that are contacted by the FP stop and the 'disco' rail on the slide. The result was a flatter shooting gun with a smoother action then the hammer is in contact with the FP stop and disco rail.

I use the heitt red 0.90 buffs... a lot softer than without, no slam at the rear of the slide stroke. I would be interested to try one of the aluminum bufs...

I agree with most everyone here. Lot differences and mixing different lots.. Check your chrono and make sure the skyscreens are in the correct position. 1/4" farther apart than they are supposed to be can reduce your velocity

The kidd blast blockers are like $35, a lot better than having your c-more-re-lensed or re-bodied by c-more themselves.. The kidd might get chewed by bullet frags if you have bullet hits in the comp or damaged ports in a hybrid, but it is cheaper to replace than a whole cmore

Like n2299 said, try the heitt 0.90 or thinner shock buff. No need to toss the idea of using them. I have broken a couple of ejectors doing slide lock reloads, so I have replaced the ejectors and cut my slide stop levers so that the empty mags won't lock it back. I have found that the slide lock reload took more time and cost me more points than just reloading before running the gun empty. I guess it comes down to counting rounds and planning the stage better for me. If I have to stand and shoot, it's much faster to do a speed reload than mess around with an empty gun. If for instance, there are 4 paper targets and 2 steel within an area, and I miss one shot on the steel, I'd rather reload than take the chance on running dry. What if I missed again? Then the steel is still standing and I am now doing a slide-lock reload. In other words, TOTALLY SCREWED. If you can keep your head and do it this the speed reload way instead of slide lock way, you're better off. Then dump the nearly full mag and load on the move. No love lost and better yet, less chance to lose time and points, and less chance to screw up the plan for shooting the stage the way you want with the reload and array effficiency. I think in the long run, planning your stages and not running the risks will make you a better and more consistent shooter, and you'll sure be happier with your scores. -Drew

I use 1x fired brass in my 40 and 38supercomp chambered guns. I paint the head stamp of new brass with red tool maker's ink, so that I know it was mine the first time. Then I use a red stripe with a sharpie after that. I measure and trim any that need it, and only keep the ones that are within a 0.003" extreme spread on legnth, but nothing that is more than 0.002" shorter than my chamber. I have shot holes within my dot diameter consistently out to 100 yards, and I use a 6moa dot on my open gun. I have a ransom rest and test my barel/ammo to see how it's doing. I also only pass completed cartriges that have an extreme spread of 0.003" COL. Everything else that case gauges but is longer or shorter than 1.2385 to 1.2415 goes in baggies for the test fire range. My chrono results have always been very consistent. No more than 7fps ES at Bend in 2003. I had an ES of 3 out at the Idaho State match in 2002. I've never had an ammo or gun jam or failure of any kind since the 2001 nationals in Barry, where I learned some very hard lessons, and made some very needed changes. I use Starline 38supercomp and speer 40 nickel. At local matches and home, I use OPB (other people's brass) until about 3 months before the big matches to give me a chance to buy and shoot about 2000 rounds of 1x fired brass. I have been using the same 700 rounds of OPB in my super since Nationals in Bend, and have gone through 10,000 Zero 121's. I still case gauge and use an EGW Undersized siging/decapping die. OK verbose enough. -Drew ty43772

TI RODS part 2: I have put about 50,000 rounds (2 years or less) on my rod and it shows less wear than the stainless McCormic one that I only had for a year. Maybe you guys who've had them break got ones built out of the wrong materail. You might ask them what they were REALLY made of. Beta-Grade is Aerospace grade, the same as what they use in Titanium connecting rods in pro-stock drag racing and top fuel/funny cars. Mine have never broken or cracked. 10 rods in 10 guns and not a single problem. If I have any question in the reliability of a part in my gun, I will not use it, and I use these rods in mine. -Drew