djcantr Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Thanks, I'm going to checker the back in 30 lpi also. Here are a couple of pics of the process, I machined a couple of guide plates to keep the file centered on the front strap. Due to the upsweep at the bottom of the front strap all of the vertical cutting must be done with the front row of teeth on the file, these wear out pretty fast so I would clamp the end of the file in the vice and break a small part off exposing a fresh row of teeth. Had to buy a second file to finish the horizontal lines. Would you sell or loan out (with a deposit) those guide plates? How thin is the front strap after smoothing the factory waffling and then checkering? I was wanting to do 20lpi but it doesn't look very thick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Czhase Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Thanks, I'm going to checker the back in 30 lpi also. Here are a couple of pics of the process, I machined a couple of guide plates to keep the file centered on the front strap. Due to the upsweep at the bottom of the front strap all of the vertical cutting must be done with the front row of teeth on the file, these wear out pretty fast so I would clamp the end of the file in the vice and break a small part off exposing a fresh row of teeth. Had to buy a second file to finish the horizontal lines. Would you sell or loan out (with a deposit) those guide plates? How thin is the front strap after smoothing the factory waffling and then checkering? I was wanting to do 20lpi but it doesn't look very thick. The front strap is still pretty thick even after removing the old checkering and adding the new. The thinnest spot is at the bottom where the frame is beveled at the opening of the mag well but you won't be putting any checkering there. I am open to selling the guide plates, send me a PM if interested. Full disclosure this is a difficult job. I have checkered a few 1911's in the past so this wasn't my first crack at it. Thanks, Chase Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huskerlrrp Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Thanks, I'm going to checker the back in 30 lpi also. Here are a couple of pics of the process, I machined a couple of guide plates to keep the file centered on the front strap. Due to the upsweep at the bottom of the front strap all of the vertical cutting must be done with the front row of teeth on the file, these wear out pretty fast so I would clamp the end of the file in the vice and break a small part off exposing a fresh row of teeth. Had to buy a second file to finish the horizontal lines. Excellent idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Czhase Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Thanks, I'm going to checker the back in 30 lpi also. Here are a couple of pics of the process, I machined a couple of guide plates to keep the file centered on the front strap. Due to the upsweep at the bottom of the front strap all of the vertical cutting must be done with the front row of teeth on the file, these wear out pretty fast so I would clamp the end of the file in the vice and break a small part off exposing a fresh row of teeth. Had to buy a second file to finish the horizontal lines. Excellent idea! Thanks, hopefully I can get started on the back strap tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eerw Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Thanks, I'm going to checker the back in 30 lpi also. Here are a couple of pics of the process, I machined a couple of guide plates to keep the file centered on the front strap. Due to the upsweep at the bottom of the front strap all of the vertical cutting must be done with the front row of teeth on the file, these wear out pretty fast so I would clamp the end of the file in the vice and break a small part off exposing a fresh row of teeth. Had to buy a second file to finish the horizontal lines. nice work...that makes my fingers sore just thinking about it. really nice though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Czhase Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Thanks, I'm going to checker the back in 30 lpi also. Here are a couple of pics of the process, I machined a couple of guide plates to keep the file centered on the front strap. Due to the upsweep at the bottom of the front strap all of the vertical cutting must be done with the front row of teeth on the file, these wear out pretty fast so I would clamp the end of the file in the vice and break a small part off exposing a fresh row of teeth. Had to buy a second file to finish the horizontal lines. nice work...that makes my fingers sore just thinking about it. really nice though Thank you Yeah, a rotary table is defiantly going on the list of things to buy. Then I can let the mill do the hard work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Czhase Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 (edited) Project update The frame work is done, just need to cerakote the slide, controle's, and mag well in graphite black, then throw it back together. Edited March 15, 2014 by Czhase Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric nielsen Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 That's a good-looking gun. If it fits your hand and points right there's probably no good reason to spend an extra thousand (or two) on a metal-gripped 2011 type Limited blaster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleL Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Love that bronze color. Very sharp looking TS Czhase. The checkering on the front is clean, I am not familiar with gunsmithing technique, how exactly do you do checkering like that? Definitely post up some pics when finished! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 A real work of art! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Czhase Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) Thank you all. DoubleL, The link below is the guide I used when I did my first 1911. The CZ is a little more difficult, on the previous page of this thread I posed a summary of how I did the CZ. http://www.m1911.org/checkering.htm Thanks, Chase Edited March 16, 2014 by Czhase Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jody Waring Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Beautiful job, thanks for sharing I wish I had you for a neighbor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Czhase Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 My TS is finally done (for now) Removed factory checkering. Undercut trigger guard and beaver tail. Hand checkered front & back strap. (30 lpi) Machine the rear sight 1mm shorter and recut the notch. Machine the mag release .075" shorter, and re-checker. Cerakote burnt bronze / graphite black. Thanks to everyone on this thread that inspired (gave me ideas to steal) this build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jody Waring Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 Beautiful job. I would love to do the checkering on mine like that, looks fantastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trgt Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 That is really sharp - amazing work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoonJeong Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 Just got this put back together. Thanks to Canyon Creek for welding a piece of metal for the safety extension, Cheely Custom for machining the slide, CZ Custom for the bushing and Yousef and IonBond for the coating. Can you share the contact for who did the grip and barrell? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mspiredm3 Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 My TS is finally done (for now) Removed factory checkering. Undercut trigger guard and beaver tail. Hand checkered front & back strap. (30 lpi) Machine the rear sight 1mm shorter and recut the notch. Machine the mag release .075" shorter, and re-checker. Cerakote burnt bronze / graphite black. Thanks to everyone on this thread that inspired (gave me ideas to steal) this build. Very nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huskerlrrp Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 Just got this put back together. Thanks to Canyon Creek for welding a piece of metal for the safety extension, Cheely Custom for machining the slide, CZ Custom for the bushing and Yousef and IonBond for the coating. Can you share the contact for who did the grip and barrell? I did the work myself except the machining and welding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djcantr Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 I'm not at all good at photography. But, I got my Tactical Sport back from Scalpel arms this week and got it reassembled today. I should have ordered some black grip screws. Had to spray paint the original ones and they look like crap. I went with Tungsten and Armor Black controls and grips. I am extremely pleased with the work they did. Any defect, mark, etc in the pic is purely due to my lack of photography skills. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huskerlrrp Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 I'm not at all good at photography. But, I got my Tactical Sport back from Scalpel arms this week and got it reassembled today. I should have ordered some black grip screws. Had to spray paint the original ones and they look like crap. I went with Tungsten and Armor Black controls and grips. I am extremely pleased with the work they did. Any defect, mark, etc in the pic is purely due to my lack of photography skills. That looks really sharp. Good choices on the colors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Czhase Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 I'm not at all good at photography. But, I got my Tactical Sport back from Scalpel arms this week and got it reassembled today. I should have ordered some black grip screws. Had to spray paint the original ones and they look like crap. I went with Tungsten and Armor Black controls and grips. I am extremely pleased with the work they did. Any defect, mark, etc in the pic is purely due to my lack of photography skills. Very nice TS. Are you using the CGW trigger pin, if so what is holding it in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djcantr Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 I am using the CGW floating trigger pin. I just put it in when I reassembled it. I wasn't aware that anything should hold it in. Will it walk out? I was using the factory pin previously. I should have had an aluminum trigger but FedEx lost the package a month ago and CZ was going to sent me another but they're backordered now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Czhase Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 I am using the CGW floating trigger pin. I just put it in when I reassembled it. I wasn't aware that anything should hold it in. Will it walk out? I was using the factory pin previously. I should have had an aluminum trigger but FedEx lost the package a month ago and CZ was going to sent me another but they're backordered now. I tried to use the CGW pin on my TS but it looked like it would walk out. On a standard 75 the trigger return spring is on the trigger pin, the spring coils sit in the narrow center section of the CGW pin and that is what keeps it from walking out. On the TS the trigger return spring is on the trigger bar bin, there isn't a spring on the trigger pin to hold it in. I never shot my TS with the CGW pin because I could easily push it out by hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djcantr Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 I am using the CGW floating trigger pin. I just put it in when I reassembled it. I wasn't aware that anything should hold it in. Will it walk out? I was using the factory pin previously. I should have had an aluminum trigger but FedEx lost the package a month ago and CZ was going to sent me another but they're backordered now. I tried to use the CGW pin on my TS but it looked like it would walk out. On a standard 75 the trigger return spring is on the trigger pin, the spring coils sit in the narrow center section of the CGW pin and that is what keeps it from walking out. On the TS the trigger return spring is on the trigger bar bin, there isn't a spring on the trigger pin to hold it in. I never shot my TS with the CGW pin because I could easily push it out by hand. Guess I'll find out if it will walk out or not. Will get a spare factory pin with my next order of small parts just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDM Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 FWIW, I've reused the factory pin a number of times with no issues. I've got an extra factory and cgw just in case though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now