huskerlrrp Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 Husker, is that Ionbond on the barrel?? I think it's Titanium Nitride and the rest is DLC but I'm not 100% sure. They do a bunch of different coatings there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Czhase Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 Huskerlrrp, Have you done any checkering work on other pistols? Interested how the hardness of the CZ frame would compare to other brands. I have done a couple of stainless 1911's in the past, just wondering what kind of a pain I will be in for if I decide to try a CZ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huskerlrrp Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 (edited) Huskerlrrp, Have you done any checkering work on other pistols? Interested how the hardness of the CZ frame would compare to other brands. I have done a couple of stainless 1911's in the past, just wondering what kind of a pain I will be in for if I decide to try a CZ. I've found a Caspian cast stainless frame to be easier than this frame material. However, I probably should have used a new checkering file to be fair. By all means it's doable, it was just slow. Plus, I'm an amateur. I wanted the top row to have the full pyramid (not too sharp, I left a flat) but I didn't want that big undercut. I couldn't figure a way around it... I'm pleased though. Edited December 23, 2013 by huskerlrrp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triggerf16 Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 Here is my TS. I replaced the front sight with a CZCustom fiber optic, lowered the rear sight, CZCustom aluminum trigger, full frame reduction, reduced the wooden grips, and refinished in DuraCoat FDE.That looks like a really nicely done grip reduction. It looks like it could have been that way from the factory. Any tips for the rest of us planning on doing one ourselves soon? Thanks! As far as tips, I scribed lines on the frame where the grip panels went, so I had lines I could cut to. I used a rotary drum for about half, and hand files for the other half the work. Polished it all with emery paper, then sand-blasted before dura-coat. I then went back and reduced the grips in the back after I had the frame cut to the size I liked (before finishing). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triggerf16 Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 Here is my TS. I replaced the front sight with a CZCustom fiber optic, lowered the rear sight, CZCustom aluminum trigger, full frame reduction, reduced the wooden grips, and refinished in DuraCoat FDE. Looks good. How did you lower the rear sight, mill it down and recut the notch? I wish I had a mill. I installed the front sight, and measured the height difference. I then used hand files to lower the rear sight the same amount, and recut the sight notch. All hand work, working slowly and carefully. I shot the gun to confirm the sight settings before completion. I like the factory sight because it serves as a slide racker. The reverse slide rails on the CZ mean I have less slide to grip, so the sight serves additional duty. I did not want to use the factory adjustable sight just for that reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuyC Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 Tell me more!! Just got this put back together. Thanks to Canyon Creek for welding a piece of metal for the safety extension, Cheely Custom for machining the slide, CZ Custom for the bushing and Yousef and IonBond for the coating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triggerf16 Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 (edited) Just got this put back together. Thanks to Canyon Creek for welding a piece of metal for the safety extension, Cheely Custom for machining the slide, CZ Custom for the bushing and Yousef and IonBond for the coating. ] I like those grips. Who makes them? Edited December 26, 2013 by Triggerf16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueRidgeReef Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 I don't suppose you'd be willing to take on work would you? I'm in state, and have been looking everywhere to find someone to checker one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huskerlrrp Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 I don't suppose you'd be willing to take on work would you? I'm in state, and have been looking everywhere to find someone to checker one. I don't have an FFL. Also, knowing my luck and amateur status something would go seriously wrong I appreciate the offer though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueRidgeReef Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 Well, you do great work, and I know there will be people who would gladly pay for CZ checkering service! Literally no one will touch it. I think Metaloy will stipple them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alma Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 I want to make the angled cut parallel to the cooking serrations. Anyone ever seen one like that?I have the same thing in mind for when I get around to it: 11 degrees (pretty sure...) and flat on the front. Mine will also have a portless comp to extend the sight radius and create a "sight tracker" effect. Now that I have a TS to play with I think would like to try this along with the typical grip reductions. Keeping in mind the placement of the SN is there anything that should stop me from getting the hack saw and files out to shorten the front of the frame? I don't plan too get it refinished right away but I figure that I can shoot the gun with polished but not yet refinished surfaces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 I want to make the angled cut parallel to the cooking serrations. Anyone ever seen one like that?I have the same thing in mind for when I get around to it: 11 degrees (pretty sure...) and flat on the front. Mine will also have a portless comp to extend the sight radius and create a "sight tracker" effect. I did some measuring and I got 19 degrees for the angle on the serrations; can anyone else confirm or deny this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SufferInSilence Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Huskerlrrp, Have you done any checkering work on other pistols? Interested how the hardness of the CZ frame would compare to other brands. I have done a couple of stainless 1911's in the past, just wondering what kind of a pain I will be in for if I decide to try a CZ. I've found a Caspian cast stainless frame to be easier than this frame material. However, I probably should have used a new checkering file to be fair. By all means it's doable, it was just slow. Plus, I'm an amateur. I wanted the top row to have the full pyramid (not too sharp, I left a flat) but I didn't want that big undercut. I couldn't figure a way around it... I'm pleased though. I like the grips did yo have to cut them yourself to get them to mate up with the magwell? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SufferInSilence Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Here is mine: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alma Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 I want to make the angled cut parallel to the cooking serrations. Anyone ever seen one like that?I have the same thing in mind for when I get around to it: 11 degrees (pretty sure...) and flat on the front. Mine will also have a portless comp to extend the sight radius and create a "sight tracker" effect. I did some measuring and I got 19 degrees for the angle on the serrations; can anyone else confirm or deny this? I measure at 17 degrees (73). Cheap protractor though so use at your own risk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huskerlrrp Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 I want to make the angled cut parallel to the cooking serrations. Anyone ever seen one like that?I have the same thing in mind for when I get around to it: 11 degrees (pretty sure...) and flat on the front. Mine will also have a portless comp to extend the sight radius and create a "sight tracker" effect. I did some measuring and I got 19 degrees for the angle on the serrations; can anyone else confirm or deny this? I measure at 17 degrees (73). Cheap protractor though so use at your own risk. I had 15 (75) degrees as nominal. Being an engineer I wouldn't choose 17 or 19 when designing a new part since they are prime numbers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alma Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 I want to make the angled cut parallel to the cooking serrations. Anyone ever seen one like that?I have the same thing in mind for when I get around to it: 11 degrees (pretty sure...) and flat on the front. Mine will also have a portless comp to extend the sight radius and create a "sight tracker" effect. I did some measuring and I got 19 degrees for the angle on the serrations; can anyone else confirm or deny this? I measure at 17 degrees (73). Cheap protractor though so use at your own risk. I had 15 (75) degrees as nominal. Being an engineer I wouldn't choose 17 or 19 when designing a new part since they are prime numbers. I got either brave or reckless and started cutting away. I am really happy with the results but obviously I still have the typical grip reduction work to go. I am planning on knocking down the front of the grip and trying out a 20 LPI checker on the rear. What do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Czhase Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 20 lpi might be a tall order considering how hard these frames are. I am currently debating on 25 lpi, or 30 lpi for mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 That looks great Alma. I'm still debating what to do to my checkering, the idea recently popped into my head to drill a shallow hole with a small end mill bit (1/16"?) at each intersection in the waffle pattern. That's my favorite idea so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alma Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Interesting thought. Had anyone tried just sharpening they waffles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDM Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Here it is together. This is a phone pic, the only one in focus. I'll get some better ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gigglemonkee Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Here it is together. This is a phone pic, the only one in focus. I'll get some better ones. ok that is just badass. I am digging the finish, is it nickel or chrome or what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twister Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 SDM, very nice looking pistol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Indeed! Very fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e-mishka Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 ^^^ looks almost as pretty as tanfo limited very cool looking TS. Is that hard chromed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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