NicVerAZ Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Still working the kinks out of my new 550 (picked it up at Dillon's and I would think it has the last I am a bit at a loss, here. It seems that once I think I understand how to get the right amount of powder +/- 1gr, I get inconsistant charges during my loading. A good thing to do is to get used to how much the right amount looks like in a case. If for instance 4.something drops instead of 5.something, it is usually clearly visible. Using powder which requires heavier charges is obviously a good thing, but what if one uses a powder which requires 3.something? I am using the small bar to load different charges between 5.5 and 6.5, in order to determine which will be better. What amazes me is that if a batch is at 5.5, and I decided to go to 6.0, for instance, I will tighten the bolt CW to raise the amount, then when I measure, I get less that before, I go from 5.5 to 5.0, for instance. I then have to keep on tightening CW to raise up to 6.0. I do give good and decisive strokes (*), one forward (as if priming), one backward, to get the powder. I've thought that maybe because I am using the same case, the belling is already there and therefore the funnel does not let the same amount down. So I have tried with a new case each time. Not much of a difference. So what do I need to do to get it down to a science and to the point where I am confident about the charge? What are all the little things one might consider? I am not ready to crank 500 rounds an hour. Taking my time, I loaded 80 rounds in 1.5 hours last night, granted with powder measure adjustment to test different powder charges. Thanks in advance. (*) Don't think about it, my GF already made the joke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 I dump the first 10 loads then measure n320 works best for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Youngeyes Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 It's very important to throw multiple times before reweighing. Always have all stations full. Throw 10 and reweigh. When you think you have the proper amount throw 10 and average the total. Once you are set, recheck every 50-100 rds. Once you're confortable you can reduce the recheck rate. Diferent powders settle at a different rate so YMMV. Most important is that you have full confidence in your reloads before "cranking" them out. Also, +/- 1 Gr is too much variation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TCBDoubleTap Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 (edited) I agree - anytime you make a change to the charge adjustment don't even weigh the first 5 - 10 drops - just put the powder back in the hopper. Then weigh the 11th drop and a few more after that to see if they're consistent. I usually do random checks while I'm loading to make sure they stay consistent, and I visually check the powder in each casing before seating the bullet. Also, when I first fill the powder measure, I usually tap the side of the hopper a few times to help the powder settle. That seemed to help give me more consistent initial drops. Tom Edited March 28, 2012 by TCBDoubleTap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classic_jon Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Question for clarification. Are you talking about 1 grain variations (i.e. 1.0 gr) or POINT 1 grain variation i.e. (0.1 grain)? 0.1 grain is an acceptable variation, 1.0 grain is not. If you are having a 1.0 grain or more variation in your drops, Call Dillon now and get them to help you troubleshoot before you go any further. As others have said, after you make a change in your powder settings, throw 10 drops, and then reweigh. that way you are getting a valid reading as it takes a couple of drops for the volume of powder to change to the new setting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicVerAZ Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 Question for clarification. Are you talking about 1 grain variations (i.e. 1.0 gr) or POINT 1 grain variation i.e. (0.1 grain)? 0.1 grain is an acceptable variation, 1.0 grain is not. If you are having a 1.0 grain or more variation in your drops, Call Dillon now and get them to help you troubleshoot before you go any further. As others have said, after you make a change in your powder settings, throw 10 drops, and then reweigh. that way you are getting a valid reading as it takes a couple of drops for the volume of powder to change to the new setting. I meant .1gr variations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes777 Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 It's very important to throw multiple times before reweighing. Always have all stations full. Throw 10 and reweigh. When you think you have the proper amount throw 10 and average the total. Once you are set, recheck every 50-100 rds. Once you're confortable you can reduce the recheck rate. Diferent powders settle at a different rate so YMMV. Most important is that you have full confidence in your reloads before "cranking" them out. Also, +/- 1 Gr is too much variation. +1 You are receiving good advice. Definitely space out your powder weighing procedure. I had a similar issue when I started on my Dillon, I ended up having to true the face of the powder bar. This was an extreme case of poor machining. I also polished the internal workings of the powder measure at the same time and installed a powder baffle. Some find this to be excessive, however my powder drops are very consistent now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicVerAZ Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 It's very important to throw multiple times before reweighing. Always have all stations full. Throw 10 and reweigh. When you think you have the proper amount throw 10 and average the total. Once you are set, recheck every 50-100 rds. Once you're confortable you can reduce the recheck rate. Diferent powders settle at a different rate so YMMV. Most important is that you have full confidence in your reloads before "cranking" them out. Also, +/- 1 Gr is too much variation. +1 You are receiving good advice. Definitely space out your powder weighing procedure. I had a similar issue when I started on my Dillon, I ended up having to true the face of the powder bar. This was an extreme case of poor machining. I also polished the internal workings of the powder measure at the same time and installed a powder baffle. Some find this to be excessive, however my powder drops are very consistent now. What grit did you use to polish the parts? I guess that since it is not yet broken in, it is acting out a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seeker Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 An important factor to remember is, if you make it a habit to remove the 10th, 50th etc. filled case for weighing, make sure that you put the powder back in to the case before returning the case to the press. If somewhere along the line you look over and notice a small pile of powder on the scale's pan, there is a very good chance that there is a squib in the batch. ask me how I know this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes777 Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 It's very important to throw multiple times before reweighing. Always have all stations full. Throw 10 and reweigh. When you think you have the proper amount throw 10 and average the total. Once you are set, recheck every 50-100 rds. Once you're confortable you can reduce the recheck rate. Diferent powders settle at a different rate so YMMV. Most important is that you have full confidence in your reloads before "cranking" them out. Also, +/- 1 Gr is too much variation. +1 You are receiving good advice. Definitely space out your powder weighing procedure. I had a similar issue when I started on my Dillon, I ended up having to true the face of the powder bar. This was an extreme case of poor machining. I also polished the internal workings of the powder measure at the same time and installed a powder baffle. Some find this to be excessive, however my powder drops are very consistent now. What grit did you use to polish the parts? I guess that since it is not yet broken in, it is acting out a bit. Fitz or a similar product with a cloth wheel on the dremel. Produces mirror effect = low friction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BullyDog Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 Hopefully your not loading your shells at the max charge. You should be fine if you load right in the middle. I also have the same issues with my setup with certain powders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number99 Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 Take a scotch pad to the powder bar and the inside where it slides. Like you said its new and works better after its worn in a bit. Polish the inside of the hopper and should be good to go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicVerAZ Posted March 29, 2012 Author Share Posted March 29, 2012 Well I must have done a good job because my first loads all performed well and with the increase of power expected. I did not crimp 3 out of 80 properly and they did not feed at all, as expected. On my last batch, at 6.3 great of Power Pistol, I got a group less then 2" at 60ft, vs 4" with WWB. So wow... definitely hooked up now. I also analyzed what can cause issues with the powder system and the bar... it is simply new. Moving it by hand I could feel resistance which can cause erratic charges. I am thinking about using 000. My ex wife pawned all my tools during our divorce process so no more tools lol. The 550 is my divorce celebration / 43 year old birthday gift to myself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JC49ae Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 Well I must have done a good job because my first loads all performed well and with the increase of power expected. I did not crimp 3 out of 80 properly and they did not feed at all, as expected. On my last batch, at 6.3 great of Power Pistol, I got a group less then 2" at 60ft, vs 4" with WWB. So wow... definitely hooked up now. I also analyzed what can cause issues with the powder system and the bar... it is simply new. Moving it by hand I could feel resistance which can cause erratic charges. I am thinking about using 000. My ex wife pawned all my tools during our divorce process so no more tools lol. The 550 is my divorce celebration / 43 year old birthday gift to myself Awesome gift! Way to treat yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicVerAZ Posted March 31, 2012 Author Share Posted March 31, 2012 So here are my observations: First, the bars (the small bar is actually two of them, including the spacer), are not "broken in" and they do tend to stick a tiny bit. I used a very small grit sanding sponge from a Rockler kit I have for one of my other hobbies: luthery (I salvaged trashed bass and 6-string guitars, paint and sand to baby smooth finish). Someone else uses a dremel cloth wheel, so whatever works. After smoothing the 2 bars on both sides, I rolled the sponge and did the same for the channel. Next I made sure to make the bars slide inside of the channel for about 50 times, pushing downwards until I was satisfied that they were sliding with no resistance. Second, I made sure that the mechanism has no tension from the failsafe rod. The 2 Allen screws are to be tightened last, and if possible the assembly has to be slightly further counter clockwise from the base, or else the rod will be putting tension on the bellcrank, which would the bellcrank cube to pop out. Third, I made sure the wingnut on the rod was adjusted per instructed. Fourth, I put enough powder to put some weight on it. Fifth, I made sure I cranked forward, then back, good regular and complete strokes. I now have perfect charges everytime. I loaded 12 rounds, the charge was still at 4.4 of HP-38. And in both cases the scale hesitated at 4.5 before settling at 4.4. Deadly accurate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 I now have perfect charges everytime. I loaded 12 rounds, the charge was still at 4.4 of HP-38. And in both cases the scale hesitated at 4.5 before settling at 4.4. Sounds like you're ready to become a full fledged reloader. Congratulations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PC Geek Shooter Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 (edited) I decided to use some oil and 1000 grit for a very short time and then I followed up with 1500 and 2000 grit on the two powder bar metal pieces (regular small one). Nice and smooth now, of course I really degreased them. I am using numerous cases, it's 7 that I know of right now. Since I just got my press I have weighed 1-3 from each brand to just test the powder measure outputs. I am using Federal primers for all of them but I was amazed how different the weights were with just the primers in them. One Blazer was 63.8, CBC was 61.5 to 61.7, Federal was 63.9 to 64.4, S&B was 61.9 to 62.2 and Win was 60.8, I flared them and adjusted the weights so many times I will have to throw these away once I am done fine tuning to the grains I want. Primer pocket and the insides are very clean (or so I thought), not perfect but good. So after this I'm going to have to go through my brass and separate by make at least for the first 100 or so since I want to stop and test every 10 rounds in the beginning once I settled on the grains I want to use. I for sure will use the advice to not even weigh the first 10 and put them back in the hopper and then measure the next 5 (of the same make). Those 5 that I will measure I will write down the exact weights of each and make sure I know exactly which one I am using to start with, since some might be off by 0.2 from each other. Once I really know more and feel more comfortable I can just do averages. Of course having the RCBS Lock-Out Die does give me more piece of mind. Edited September 13, 2012 by PC Geek Shooter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 (edited) I measure the next 5 I will write down the exact weights of each PC, I don't bother writing down the exact weights of each - I just average them. Then run them thru a chrono and test for accuracy & velocity. Edited September 13, 2012 by Hi-Power Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TCBDoubleTap Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 I am using numerous cases, it's 7 that I know of right now. Since I just got my press I have weighed 1-3 from each brand to just test the powder measure outputs. I am using Federal primers for all of them but I was amazed how different the weights were with just the primers in them. One Blazer was 63.8, CBC was 61.5 to 61.7, Federal was 63.9 to 64.4, S&B was 61.9 to 62.2 and Win was 60.8, PC - I'm confused by your comment - are you weighing your powder charges in the brass casing? If so, you'll get a different reading with every round and you won't have an accurate weight for the powder charge. You should dump the powder out of the casing into the pan that came with your scale - after you zero the scale with the pan on it. That way you're only measuring the powder weight, not the brass and primer. I hope this helps. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PC Geek Shooter Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 I am using numerous cases, it's 7 that I know of right now. Since I just got my press I have weighed 1-3 from each brand to just test the powder measure outputs. I am using Federal primers for all of them but I was amazed how different the weights were with just the primers in them. One Blazer was 63.8, CBC was 61.5 to 61.7, Federal was 63.9 to 64.4, S&B was 61.9 to 62.2 and Win was 60.8, PC - I'm confused by your comment - are you weighing your powder charges in the brass casing? If so, you'll get a different reading with every round and you won't have an accurate weight for the powder charge. You should dump the powder out of the casing into the pan that came with your scale - after you zero the scale with the pan on it. That way you're only measuring the powder weight, not the brass and primer. I hope this helps. Tom I would of used the pan, but I never saw it in the box I got with my Hornady LNL Bench scale. Turns out I just didn't look hard enough, I just found it now. Looking at the box picture it appears that it'd be 3 times bigger. It's more fun the other way anyways I could just delete my post, so I don't look so stupid, but I'll leave it to make others look smarter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinecone Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 If you were weighing the primed case with powder, I am surprised you got only 0.1 variations. Good brass. We all do things that show we don't think at times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadyscott999 Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 If you were weighing the primed case with powder, I am surprised you got only 0.1 variations. Good brass. We all do things that show we don't think at times. Me too. That is actually amazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeyephil Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 Actually a good read on slicking up a new powder measure anyway. Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 Always make the final adjustment on the adjustment bolt in a clockwise direction. (Take all the slop out of the threads in the same direction each time.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9146gt Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Always make the final adjustment on the adjustment bolt in a clockwise direction. (Take all the slop out of the threads in the same direction each time.) Why will it not take the slop out of the bolt in a counter clockwise direction? Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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