Number99

Dosent that defeat the purpose of the vacuum? No not really. I just use Velcro or tape to hold the other side on. Still works fine.

If you leave half the vacuum thing off and have a short die it will fit.

My advice would be just keep reading and keep trying. There's a boatload of of things it could be. The first place I would start on your load would be powder charge. Play with it a little and see if it improves any. Check over on the high road forums. Almost all my questions were answered just by looking around over there. And here of course also. Your already a step ahead of me. I tried to learn reloading with a break open single shot. Bad idea!!!

Yes. I'm sure trying to. Seems like I can get them about right then I do a small run and they get inconsistent.

So I seem to be having trouble getting consistent shoulder setback. First tried just running a decapper in # 2, FL sizing in #5 and trimming in #7. Didn't like what I was getting so I switched to FL sizing and decapping in #2 and trimming in #6. Getting about the same thing. Getting as much as .006 difference in shoulder measurement with a Hornady collet deal. I'm setting both dies with the plate full for sure. Kinda eyeing the swager maybe letting things tilt a little. This is crimped brass so I am using it. Any 1050 tips? Thanks.

Are you trimming on the 550? Are these the first loading of once fired military brass? Had some what of the same trouble. Most are fine but you run in to those really big cases and they don't size all the way. If your trimming on the 550 set your trim die as close as you can to your FL die. Sizing twice gives very consistent sizes.

Same problem on a 1050. Never did have this trouble on the 550. For what it's worth I sharpened mine to a point. Flat or close to flat didn't work. I was just decapping in #2 and sizing in 5, trimming in 7. I couldn't get consistent sizes so I'm gonna switch to sizing in 2 and trimming in 6. See if that's better.

I tried just decapping in 2, FL sizing in 5 and trimming 7. Not getting real consistent results. Going to switch to FL/decapping in 2 and trimming in 6. I'll See if that's better. This is Lake city crimped 223 brass.

Thanks I forgot to mention I'm wondering about rifle brass. 223 in particular. I never would have thought you could hear it. Is there kind of a dull sound to it?

For you guys running bulk brass processing on a 1050. How do you catch split necks and the like? I have just got a 1050 from Brian (THANKS) and was going to set it up just for processing and was wondering.

Copied from another thread. Here is a brief list of mods I have made to mine. As always your mileage may vary but I feel like I can drop flake and long stick type powders pretty good. Everybody may know all these but just in case. 1. Polish inside of hopper base 2 Scotch brite powder bars and inside of measure where they slide. I do this anytime they have been sitting for a day or two before use they just seem to get scuzzy. 3. Scotch brite on a drill bit and polish inside a powder funnels. On 223 I use a tapered reamer and tried to taper the funnel transition as much as possible. And polished up after of course. 4. Ground off part of the fail safe return rod linkage thingy. The little bump thing that stops the measure from coming down till the rod pulls it out of the way. 5. Run a rubber band to pull the bar back like the old style springs. This seems to help a lot. The bar follows the measure down smooth as butter. If it starts jerking down you can bet it will be varying charges. 6. On flake powder (Unique) I run a fish tank air pump hose clamped to the side of the hopper bout as low as I can get it. You can't start and stop loading with it running. If its on you better be cranking. Big charge waiting on you if you leave it on while taking a break. And I just installed the micrometer adjusters and they are very nice. Way better system.

Mine will do that in 5 minutes. I dump 4 or 5 every time I start.

Yup that funnel seems to have a little bit of a distinct edge when it goes down to bore size. Finally found a reamer, chucked it in a drill, held the funnel by hand. It took the edge off of it pretty well really. There are some pretty cool deremel wheels called Cratex. Used those and smoothed/polished it out the rest of the way.

Tapered reamer. Smooths out the transition. Polish it up after reaming. Works for me. More details if you want them. Sorry not a big phone typist.

I wondered if they still would sell them. I use the white rubber bands off of Dole broccoli. Works perfect.

Here is a brief list of mods I have made to mine. As always your mileage may vary but I feel like I can drop flake and long stick type powders pretty good. Everybody may know all these but just in case. 1. Polish inside of hopper base 2 Scotch brite powder bars and inside of measure where they slide. I do this anytime they have been sitting for a day or two before use they just seem to get scuzzy. 3. Scotch brite on a drill bit and polish inside a powder funnels. On 223 I use a tapered reamer and tried to taper the funnel transition as much as possible. And polished up after of course. 4. Ground off part of the fail safe return rod linkage thingy. The little bump thing that stops the measure from coming down till the rod pulls it out of the way. 5. Run a rubber band to pull the bar back like the old style springs. This seems to help a lot. The bar follows the measure down smooth as butter. If it starts jerking down you can bet it will be varying charges. 6. On flake powder (Unique) I run a fish tank air pump hose clamped to the side of the hopper bout as low as I can get it. You can't start and stop loading with it running. If its on you better be cranking. Big charge waiting on you if you leave it on while taking a break. And I just installed the micrometer adjusters and they are very nice. Way better system. Here's a pic of the ground off part. What ever it's called.

The 50's are not boat tail. They shoot good. Wish they were 55 or 60 though.

Polish/ smooth out inside of powder hopper. Take scotch brite to the powder bars and inside where they slide.

I may be totally off on this but this is what I have found. Some military brass may have been shot in a large chamber. One pass thru a FL die MAY not get it back to where you need to be. 8 out of 10 will size right down. 2 will be close but not match the others. Using both a FL die and having the trim die down far enough to bump a little would help with the spring back on those big cases. I didn't have mine set this way but I think I'll try next time I need to run. I tried to do it sizing in one, and just having the trim die trim, and running a neck size die after the trim die. Still ended up with some big cases and I had FL die right where it needed to be.

Take a scotch pad to the powder bar and the inside where it slides. Like you said its new and works better after its worn in a bit. Polish the inside of the hopper and should be good to go!

I chucked mine up in a drill and turned it down by hand with a piece of kinda fine emery cloth. Works pretty good.

Pull your die apart and measure expander. I think mine is .222,. From memory necks after sizing are smaller than yours. Place to start anyway.

The trim die is tight in the neck. I checked mine and if I remember right it squeezes the neck down about two thousands smaller than when it comes out of the FL die. I run a neck sizing die after the trimmer. Probably not a have to but I do.

I do not size in the trim die. Size first then trim. I run the trimmer down to about .015 off the deck of the trim die and lock it there. Then just use the die to get case length.

I've heard that but never been around a 650. Didn't know how it would work.