cworks Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 CCGunworks RTS Mount: thats awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jid2 Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 Check out the mount Matt Cheely is building, he just posted it in his vendor section. It looks awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Merricks Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 Check out the mount Matt Cheely is building, he just posted it in his vendor section. It looks awesome. It's also posted in this thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Adamson Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Question for you those of you with an RTS... I assembled mine on a makeshift mount (waiting for one from Matt ). Just by eyeball I dialed in the left/right up and down the locking screw was completely loose. I then took the supplied wrench and tightened the lock screw, but both the L/R and the U/D and pretty easily be moved with the allen wrench after the Lock is tight. At first I didn't think I tightened it, but when I went to loosen it, It snapped 2 or 3 times to tell me that indeed it was tight. Am I doing something wrong? Or do the screws still turn on the L/R, U/D, but the dot is locked? There was maybe a little more tension to them when the lock was tight, but nothing really notable. Just curious, I'll call Cmore tomorrow, perhaps I got a bad one, but that seems a little odd because no-one else seems to complain about this issue? So tell me when you Lock is tight, can you still turn the L/R, U/D allen screws with pretty much just your fingers on the allen wrench? Thanks, Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Adamson Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Question for you those of you with an RTS... I assembled mine on a makeshift mount (waiting for one from Matt ). Just by eyeball I dialed in the left/right up and down the locking screw was completely loose. I then took the supplied wrench and tightened the lock screw, but both the L/R and the U/D and pretty easily be moved with the allen wrench after the Lock is tight. At first I didn't think I tightened it, but when I went to loosen it, It snapped 2 or 3 times to tell me that indeed it was tight. Am I doing something wrong? Or do the screws still turn on the L/R, U/D, but the dot is locked? There was maybe a little more tension to them when the lock was tight, but nothing really notable. Just curious, I'll call Cmore tomorrow, perhaps I got a bad one, but that seems a little odd because no-one else seems to complain about this issue? So tell me when you Lock is tight, can you still turn the L/R, U/D allen screws with pretty much just your fingers on the allen wrench? Thanks, Alan Well, go figure, designed as implemented... Seems the Lock screw, locks the module, but the U/D, L/R screws will turn (although you shouldn't), the detent keeps them from moving, but even if they do, the zero won't change.... Ok, nice to know, file that one away... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diehli Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Thanks for investigating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neomet Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Yes, good to know, and I like that it locks the module. Pretty cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flack jacket Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Tried this set up today from a fellow shooter at NRG using a JV mount (pre production, from what it looks like)... I need to shoot a whole match to get a grasp of the changes. Initial impression.. very good. RTS is VERY close to Serendipity/slide ride glass size. Matt C. posted a pic on FB showing the different heights from 90, RTS and upright Serendipity. RTS is dead smack in the middle between the other 2. http://imgur.com/a/IcS7j#0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconpilot Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Guys, I know this is an old thread, but how are the RTS's holding up? Also, recommendations...3.5 or 7 moa dot..I'm running a 6 now.. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scootertheshooter Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Have had mine for a while and is fine . My only wish is I hit it in 3.5 not 7 moa. Personally I like a smaller dot I shoot steel with it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lcs Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 I just got the RTS and Matt's mount. I have used the standard C-more, moved to the side mount, and now the RTS. The reason I changed from a side mount--The faster I got, the more I screwed up targets with no shoots or hard cover while transiting to the left. Being winter we shoot a lot indoors (weekly) and the 7 MOA dot is just to bright and to BIG. Who would think you would complain about to bright. I read in one post to put tape over the sensor---It helped some, but the dot is still to big. I mean BIG! Anybody know if the diode can be changed like a standard C-More? I did shoot outside on a cloudy day to zero (less than an hour) and the dot size did not seem to be a problem . I will have to wait till spring hits to see if 7 MOA is the ticket for outside in different lighting conditions. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconpilot Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Thanks to Shooter Connection(great bunch- they are always ready to help reduce your nabk account:)), I installed a new RTS and Cheeley Mount on my Open gun today. Boy, is this thing bright! I' m hoping I didn't pick the wrong MOA dot-went with 7.... Spent a little time with it sighting it in, then worked a little on draws and sight alignment. I was worried that I might have trouble finding dot since it sets so much lower than a regular Cmore, but if anything , I think the alignment is easier, and timer shows it to be faster. Great setup! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWLAZS Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 Question for you those of you with an RTS... I assembled mine on a makeshift mount (waiting for one from Matt ). Just by eyeball I dialed in the left/right up and down the locking screw was completely loose. I then took the supplied wrench and tightened the lock screw, but both the L/R and the U/D and pretty easily be moved with the allen wrench after the Lock is tight. At first I didn't think I tightened it, but when I went to loosen it, It snapped 2 or 3 times to tell me that indeed it was tight. Am I doing something wrong? Or do the screws still turn on the L/R, U/D, but the dot is locked? There was maybe a little more tension to them when the lock was tight, but nothing really notable. Just curious, I'll call Cmore tomorrow, perhaps I got a bad one, but that seems a little odd because no-one else seems to complain about this issue? So tell me when you Lock is tight, can you still turn the L/R, U/D allen screws with pretty much just your fingers on the allen wrench? Thanks, Alan Well, go figure, designed as implemented... Seems the Lock screw, locks the module, but the U/D, L/R screws will turn (although you shouldn't), the detent keeps them from moving, but even if they do, the zero won't change.... Ok, nice to know, file that one away... Great news I thought I had just messed my zero up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWLAZS Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 I am using the rts on Cheelys mount. I love it so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwin garcia Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 I just got the RTS and Matt's mount. I have used the standard C-more, moved to the side mount, and now the RTS. The reason I changed from a side mount--The faster I got, the more I screwed up targets with no shoots or hard cover while transiting to the left. Being winter we shoot a lot indoors (weekly) and the 7 MOA dot is just to bright and to BIG. Who would think you would complain about to bright. I read in one post to put tape over the sensor---It helped some, but the dot is still to big. I mean BIG! Anybody know if the diode can be changed like a standard C-More? I did shoot outside on a cloudy day to zero (less than an hour) and the dot size did not seem to be a problem . I will have to wait till spring hits to see if 7 MOA is the ticket for outside in different lighting conditions. . put 2-3 layers of tape over the sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lcs Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 I just got the RTS and Matt's mount. I have used the standard C-more, moved to the side mount, and now the RTS. The reason I changed from a side mount--The faster I got, the more I screwed up targets with no shoots or hard cover while transiting to the left. Being winter we shoot a lot indoors (weekly) and the 7 MOA dot is just to bright and to BIG. Who would think you would complain about to bright. I read in one post to put tape over the sensor---It helped some, but the dot is still to big. I mean BIG! Anybody know if the diode can be changed like a standard C-More? I did shoot outside on a cloudy day to zero (less than an hour) and the dot size did not seem to be a problem . I will have to wait till spring hits to see if 7 MOA is the ticket for outside in different lighting conditions. . put 2-3 layers of tape over the sensor. I read about the tape in another post and it did not seem to work. I am not so sure I have located the sensor. What I thought is the sensor, I put opaque blue plumbers tape and it is still to bright. Interestingly, I would put my finger (horizontal) in front of the lower part and the dot shrinks and is perfect size. This happens even with the tape on. Leads me to believe the sensor is in the glass ? Can you post a picture of where you put the tape? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwin garcia Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 I'm at work. No Gun Zone, sorry. It's in front of the scope, right below the glass. Yes there is a round sensor that you'll see...hardly visible. I use the blue painters tape 2-3, if i'm indoors. BUT, make sure you set your switch to 'AT' and NOT 'M'. In 'AT' mode, the sensor will detect ambient light, in 'M' mode, it doesn't care, it will go full blast. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconpilot Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 (edited) Mine.. Edited March 15, 2013 by falconpilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latech15 Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 Mine.. BS, you aren't wanting to show off your RTS, you just want to brag about your stash of 22lr. That's just rude. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconpilot Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 (edited) No..this would be rude:) got two more case of Wolf and 1/2 case of CCI SV arriving today... Mine reason for it all:) Edited March 15, 2013 by falconpilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latech15 Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 Yep, Rude and Rude. Since you have a good justification for it, I will let it slide this time. Is the third picture a 22 as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconpilot Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 Yes...it's a Hall action Gorman built ARA/50/50 bench gun..shoots little bitty holes.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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