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Best primers for a 1911 with a 2# trigger


Gruyere

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Hey guys. I am in the process of switching to single stack and need some primer advice. I was shooting a CZ 75 SP-01 for a while and was getting light strikes (about 1-2/100). Turned out that because of the amazing trigger job from the CZ custom shop the hammer force was reduced and thus the occasional light strike. I switched from CCI to winchester and the problem disappeared completely. This was never an issue with my similarly tuned STI in .40. I still use CCIs for that load.

Do any of you know if I should expect the reduction in hammer force with a tuned 1911? Which primers should I use to prevent this? I don't want to go too soft and risk trouble.

Really, I have no idea how they lighten a trigger besides "grinding" here and there. I guess I should learn, it's just that when I have free time I go shoot instead of picking up a book ;-).

Thanks. --Brian

BTW, I have 8# of 231 and a bunch of Berry's 230gr so that's where I'm going to start working up my load.

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Federal primers are the softest then I believe Winchester. Not sure about CCI. I have a 2 pound trigger on my steel gun, and was getting light strikes with some rounds I loaded up with Wolf primers. I put in a Dawson extended length firing pin and never have had a problem since.

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+1 to speculatorking's post. I'll add that CCi primers are "harder than Chinese arithmetic!":roflol: A 2# 1911 trigger will need either Fed. or Win. primers for a consistent detonation. Revolver shooters swear by the Federals for just that reason, lighter trigger pull = lighter strikes.

Alan~^~

Edited by Alan550
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In my experience, as long as I run a 17 lb. or higher mainspring I do not have any problems with any primers, including Wolff, and I have my triggers set to 2 lbs.

When I went to a 16 lb. mainspring in one of my guns, I got a few light strikes with Wolff primers. I put a long firing pin in it and haven't had any problems since.

Edited by tk2
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Like tk2, I run 19# main's for reliablility. I can still tune a trigger to 2lbs using the 19#. Only reason to run lighter would be the other factors of the lighter main spring.

Run a Hyperdrive FP, make sure it doesn't stick out the breach face while at rest. Skip the Heavy duty FP spring and just run a standard weight spring.

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Like tk2, I run 19# main's for reliablility. I can still tune a trigger to 2lbs using the 19#. Only reason to run lighter would be the other factors of the lighter main spring.

Run a Hyperdrive FP, make sure it doesn't stick out the breach face while at rest. Skip the Heavy duty FP spring and just run a standard weight spring.

+1. I run pretty much exaclty what you describe in my 1911.

I bought a CZ Shadow with the full Angus trigger job and I've never had a ligth strike. I only run Federal Primers.

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Do any of you know if I should expect the reduction in hammer force with a tuned 1911? Which primers should I use to prevent this? I don't want to go too soft and risk trouble.

I've never had a 1911 or 2011 that was picky about primers. Even when I was running a 1.25 lb trigger (17 lb mainspring), I had no problem setting off Wolf, CCI, Winchester, or Federal in LP or SP. Supposedly CCIs are the hardest made, but I've had no problems.

I did have about a half dozen failures from Wolf in a batch of 5K, but they were all within a run of 250 rounds, so I suspect I just got a few made on a Monday morning. The issue was QC, not hardness (IMHO).

BB

Edited by bbbean
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Hammer spring strength does not affect trigger pull weight in the 1911 when the geometry is correct.

It does affect perception of recoil though, as heavier springs delay slide unlocking. I prefer 17 pounders for this reason. You will generally only get light strikes if you drop to 15 pounds.

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I let this thread percolate for a few days and BAM! Some amazing advice. Just picked up 5k of the Win and I'm going to talk to my smith to make sure I have the right spring. Thanks to you all for the wisdom and shared experience. --Brian

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Hammer spring strength does not affect trigger pull weight in the 1911 when the geometry is correct.

It does affect perception of recoil though, as heavier springs delay slide unlocking. I prefer 17 pounders for this reason. You will generally only get light strikes if you drop to 15 pounds.

I disagree. More spring pressure equals more friction. Others will disagree on the light strikes issues as several poeple have already posted having light strikes with 17# recoil springs. Every gun is different.

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Hammer spring strength does not affect trigger pull weight in the 1911 when the geometry is correct.

It does affect perception of recoil though, as heavier springs delay slide unlocking. I prefer 17 pounders for this reason. You will generally only get light strikes if you drop to 15 pounds.

I disagree. More spring pressure equals more friction. Others will disagree on the light strikes issues as several poeple have already posted having light strikes with 17# recoil springs. Every gun is different.

Emphasis on "when the geometry is correct". I recently changed the hammer spring in my old Limited gun from 23# to 17#. The pull weight did not move a single ounce.

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I disagree. More spring pressure equals more friction. Others will disagree on the light strikes issues as several poeple have already posted having light strikes with 17# recoil springs. Every gun is different.

Bingo!

You gotta do some homework and find out what works for YOU in YOUR setup.

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Federal's first, then Winchester.

Done lots of testing on this subject... Federal's first.... Fiocchi second ....... then a shootout between Winchester, Magtech and Remington. When it comes to reduced hammer falls you need to remember that CCI's are harder than a whore's heart. A 1911 has so much hammer energy that a #15 will work OK in most guns, CZ's, Glocks and S&W Revolvers are a different story especially when springs are cut or swapped out for lighter rated ones.

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  • 1 month later...

my 1911 breaks at 1.8, and lights off everything i put in the pipe... its not the trigger in lbs its the mainspring...if u have a 15lb main u will be good with any primer... 13, better get some feds or wins... Good luck sorry if this was already addressed... i didnt read everyones posts haha

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  • 3 weeks later...

I've never had but a very few .45 rounds that wouldn't ignite with CCI primers but using them in 9mm has been a headache. Kahr, Glock, and S&W don't like'em. Switched to Win. and good results. I got the CCI's back when you bought what you could get. Probably stick with Win. or Rem. in the future.

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The trigger on my STI is 2.75# never had a problem with CCI LPP.

The 3# trigger on my CZ75B SA Target hasn't had any problems with CCI either. Only a couple hundred rounds into that gun so far.

Edited by GForceLizard
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Like tk2, I run 19# main's for reliablility. I can still tune a trigger to 2lbs using the 19#. Only reason to run lighter would be the other factors of the lighter main spring.

Run a Hyperdrive FP, make sure it doesn't stick out the breach face while at rest. Skip the Heavy duty FP spring and just run a standard weight spring.

This is the best advice out there. I don't listen to it but its the best advice lol. I run 17# mainsprings in all my guns except my .45s, they get 19#s. I run a hyperdrive firing pin in all my 1911s even my .45s springfields because they use a 38 super FP hole. I also use a light weight hammer as well as other light weight parts. W2R can put a hell of a trigger job on a gun with a 19#MS though.

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