buckaroo45 Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 I'm shooting a 627 in steel plate and a 625 in USPSA. I use Titegroup and Clays powder. When cleaning them after a match, I have difficulty removing the dark "smudge" left by the powder(s). Hoppe's gets a lot but not all. Any suggestions on how to do the job better? For those not familiar with these models, per the topic description, they are stainless. ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ "Don't shoot fast, unless you also shoot good." Clint Smith, Director of Thunder Ranch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airedale Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 I use a "wore out" brass brush to remove those stains. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71Commander Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 I use a white scotch pad when I break down and clean em. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intel6 Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 Get a lead free cloth, I think the last one I got was from Birchwood Casey. This is a cloth with some sort of chemical on it that will get rid of all the carbon/lead/etc from a stainless revo. I can make the front of my 625 look like it has never been fired it cleans so good. I cut a small piece and use it until it gets cacked with the carbon etc. I have been shooting revos for 20+ years and it is the only thing I use on my stainless revos. I understand it will take buleing off so I don't use it on my blued guns. I also use a patch of it on a bore mop in a drill to get rid of the junk in the cylinders that gets stuck on the sides of the chamber because of the pressure. This stuff works great and I woudln't clean a stainless revo without it. Neal in AZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubber Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 Are Revos supposed to be Shiney? As long as it is still running I don't very often try to wipe mine down. But if I do I use MPro 7. And another I found from some of the matches is Slip 2000 725 gun cleaner that I have received in some of my shooter packets. Seems to work also. But don't gauge how it works by the looks of my revo as I have not cleaned it in about 30 matches. Maybe 6 months worth and I may clean it before the Southern Regionals..but doubt it. later rdd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckaroo45 Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share Posted March 2, 2010 Thanks for all the good suggestions. Seems like not cleaning for 30 matches would make the gun look parkerized. I was always taught to be fussy about guns. Probably due to the quality of finish on some guns back then - 50 years ago. The family shotgun was from Sears. Besides, I enjoy just messing about with them. Big boy toys to be sure. ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ My plan for this stage is "shoot till I hit something". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 I clean off the residue on the outside of the cylinder and the frame with Hoppes#9 but do not get worried about the carbon etc. buildup onthe front of the cylinder. I also use Hoppes#9 on the chambers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-shot Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 MPro 7 and a brush, when I decide to clean them. Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GISMap Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 Kroil works wonders, it gets under the carbon and lifts it right off. I've seemingly used everything known to man, and the Kroil gets the job done very quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sci Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 What is this cleaning you guys speak of? Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussB Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 I keep the chambers clean. The rest of the gun, not so much. It's my opinion that more damage can be done by overzealous cleaning than just letting the gun thrive in it's natuarl state of funkiness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calishootr Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 on my 625 i use some flitz paste on the cylinder face, and it works really well on gettingthe carbon crud off, tho i wouldnt wantto use it on the rest ofthe gun as its basically a brushed/bead blasted stainless??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 I don't think it's necessary to clean a working revolver until it's all nice and silvery everywhere, but I always start any big match with a clean revolver. They don't need cleaned internally very often, and I very rarely take the sideplates off any of my personal competition guns, but it's smart to keep the external stuff fairly clean, particularly the chambers, cylinder face and forcing cone area, under the extractor, and the other obvious spots where the gunk builds up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnybravo Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 I don't think it's necessary to clean a working revolver until it's all nice and silvery everywhere, but I always start any big match with a clean revolver. They don't need cleaned internally very often, and I very rarely take the sideplates off any of my personal competition guns, but it's smart to keep the external stuff fairly clean, particularly the chambers, cylinder face and forcing cone area, under the extractor, and the other obvious spots where the gunk builds up. What he said. Plus, on the occasion I feel having a shiny stainless revolver, I use Nevr-Dull. (That's how it's spelled). It's available at hardware stores and hardware departments of bigger stores. It's cheap and one can will last quite a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxshooter Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 I try to get a nice black finish on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bossharley Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 JB bore paste for mine when it gets cleaned :0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckaroo45 Posted March 17, 2010 Author Share Posted March 17, 2010 Thanks to all for the suggestions, I tried most of them. Best of the bunch for my need was Neil in Arizona's silicone cloth. A little elbow grease and it looks fine. I just don't like the look of a dirty gun. ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ "I have the Power thing down, it's the Speed and Accuracy that give me problems" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boats Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 Cleaning after a match lets you look things over and discover things that have loosened up. With loads burning clean and no leading they don't need a lot. If you have grains of unburned powder or lead fowling you need to do more. Work on loads and eliminate those problems I give stainless or blue revolvers a spray of Balistol and let it sit. As long as overnight sometimes. It melts fowling off. Finish with a old toothbrush on the cylinder & wipe the bore and cylinder with a worn bronze brush wrapped in a patch. Then dry the outside with a paper shop towel. . Every so often will blow tight spots with the air hose Boats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwhite1 Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 JB bore paste for mine when it gets cleaned :0 Definitely use JB bore paste on front of stainless cylinder to remove rings... I like to use a cotton swab, get JB on it and clean the surface. Leave front of cylinder perfect! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bwana Six-Gun Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 I follow the Jerry Miculek philosophy, clean it when down range performance is affected(?). For the bore, I use a brass brush with Hoppe's and then a bore snake. For the external, 0000 steel wool dipped in Hoppe's. Makes them shiny and look like new, with no visable signs of wear. Works for me, you may want to try something else. PAT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckaroo45 Posted March 18, 2010 Author Share Posted March 18, 2010 It took some time and effort to get my guns shooting reliably and accurately. In that process I spent some time standing in a stage with a malfunction of some sort. Now that I can run a stage without all the drama I prefer not to wait till downrange performance is affected. I suspect Jerry doesn't subscribe to shoot it till it dies either. Run your equipment how you like but you don't get Jerry's level of performance starting with dirty equipment. _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ "I have the Power thing down, it's the Speed and Accuracy that give me problems" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
21 shooter Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 (edited) I am soaking a blued cylinder/crane in MPro7 right now. It has been in it for a couple of days. I am trying to get that carbon, lead, whatever it is out of the flutes in the cylinder. I won't use just anything with the blued revolver. For stainless, there are many more options as you don't have to worry about the finish. I usually shoot mine until they start looking really bad. Even then, most times, they are still running fine. The dirtier they are, the tougher they are to clean. The more suggestions or ideas, the better. I have tried many things to clean a cylinder, but if there is time, I think letting the cylinder soak a day or three is much easier. I like shooting lead bullets, but in a revolver, it seems that everything gets really dirty, the frame, forcing cone, well, everything. Edited May 6, 2010 by 21 shooter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Griffin Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 I don't think it's necessary to clean a working revolver until it's all nice and silvery everywhere, but I always start any big match with a clean revolver. They don't need cleaned internally very often, and I very rarely take the sideplates off any of my personal competition guns, but it's smart to keep the external stuff fairly clean, particularly the chambers, cylinder face and forcing cone area, under the extractor, and the other obvious spots where the gunk builds up. You do know that Dremel makes brass brushes, right? That's what I use. H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eak Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 I have used barkeepers friend with sucess when i actually do it lol. You can find it by the cleaning supplies at wally world, make a paste and get to scrubbing with a soft patch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogged Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 I have used barkeepers friend with sucess when i actually do it lol. You can find it by the cleaning supplies at wally world, make a paste and get to scrubbing with a soft patch. I like the barkeeper's friend also but it will take a bead blasted surface to a glossier level. It kinda makes my guns look like I shoot em a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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