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Intel6

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About Intel6

  • Birthday 05/29/1967

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    Sierra Vista, AZ
  • Real Name
    Neal Wegner

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Looks for Target (4/11)

  1. I have run WST in lighter lead 10mm loads with 200 gr. coated bullets with no problems. I use WST is most of my cast bullet loads of various calibers. As long as you are not trying to push them too hard, WST is a great powder that burns clean.
  2. I load my .38 mid on my 650 and then use a hand primer to make sure the primers are seated. For my 929 I load the 9mm on the 1050 and don't have to mess with the primers.
  3. Or you can just write on it with a sharpie and wipe it off with alcohol when you want to change it. I do the same thing on my plastic ammo boxes.
  4. Stopped using them with plastic grips before the metal ones existed. Now with my stainless grips I still don't use them. Still have never had any issues with not using them.
  5. You can load lighter shooting loads (basically .40 S&W) with those fast powders but need to get a slower burn rate powder for the heavier loads. Like many people I use Longshot for most of my full power loads as it is a ball type powder that meters well in my Dillon's and gives good velocity/power. I have also seem others that like Blue dot powder and also AA#7 is great for full power 10mm. I still like 800X for my top loads but I use a chargemaster to meter the powder since it is like loading cornflakes.
  6. Yep, very obviously fired in a Beretta. The Border Patrol used to shoot Berettas and all the .40 brass looked like this.
  7. Yes! I started using WIN brass from the start when I got my 929 as I had a decent amount of it once fired. Using .035" clips I found that if I had problems with a full clip dropping in the cylinder there was usually a round that didn't spin in the clip. Not sure if it is an out of spec piece of brass or the extractor groove was damaged when it was fired (in an autoloader) the first time? I now have the habit if checking for spin when I load my clips and just make sure I discard the specific case after firing. That way I cull out the bad brass and the issue doesn't happen much anymore.
  8. I use Lancer mags and I have found that there are no issues with the metal feed lips tearing up the brass? And as a reloader I would specifically not use them if they did. In fact I specifically use Lancers in my .458 SOCOM because they work great and don't tear up the brass. Yes they have metal feed lips but they are finished off smooth (not just a stamped out part with a sharp raw edge) and do not even scratch the brass?
  9. Great match and especially great weather for both matches. With the little amount of match type shooting I have done in the past few years I was happy to make it to 9th in USPSA revolver(15 with the open guys). I tied for best stage finish being 4th on stage 1 & 4. Very happy with the finish on stage 1 which was the always challenging Schmidt Standards.
  10. For the most part yes I do. Quenching for improved bullet hardness depends on the bullet metal composition. You have to have the right metals in the mix to make quenching work they way it is supposed to. Many question the fact that the quenched bullets are being heated back up during coating and has an affect on the hardness. Many just quench after coating also to get better final hardness. I quench both times for bullet hardness but also for efficient handling purposes. That way I am never siting around waiting for bullets to cool before I can take the next step with them. One other thing I always do is season my bullets. Others (with hardness testers) have done tests and found that bullets need to sit for a couple of weeks to get to their full potential hardness. I do try and get them coated and sized within 24-48 hours of casting but then let them sit a few weeks (at least) before loading. I just try and stay ahead of my bullet needs and cast before I need them to load.
  11. You are certainly welcome. I am glad you got it working like it is supposed to and I am always happy to help out.
  12. You should use the .310" but many have used .309" and there are also .311" bullets out there but the .310" are for the 7.62x39. Many die sets come with two different neck expanders for loading 7.62x39 with .309" or .310/.311" bullets. Make sure you are using the right one in order to get the proper neck tension.
  13. The handle that is attached to the sprue plate (right hand side) should be bolted to the underside of the plate and the rounded cam surface should contact the side of the mould. After the pour and the sprue is solidified you pull the handle to the right and it cams the sprue plate to cut the sprue loose. It works just like the Lee 6 cavity, compare the MP mould to the Lee to get it correct. I took a few pics of my MP mould with the sprue plate handle attached. The first is from above the mould and the second is with the sprue plate open from the undersiade. OK, kinda wonky looking but if it works. You might be better off using the other one as you can adjust and use the mould guide and start pouring a bigger sprue. Running more than one mould increases output and permits the lead to solidify correctly. Procedure is straightforward, the moulds need to come up to temp first. I cast with one while the 2nd heats up. Fill 1st mould and set down to cool. Fill the 2nd mould and set down to cool. Now the 1st mould is ready to be emptied and refilled. You just keep alternating between moulds until you are finished. Since I run my lead hotter than some I have a small fan blowing on the moulds when they are at rest to help keep them from overheating.
  14. I agree, I like to make sure everything is filled out so I run hotter and mine are frosted. Your concerns about opening the mould too early are valid and may apply here. Since the camming sprue handle is not installed correctly I think he is opening before the lead is solidified because he wouldn't be able to get it open very easily since he is cutting 8 sprue openings. Also since he is not getting a sprue puddle it is easier for him to open the sprue plate as he is not cutting through much from what I can see in the video.
  15. As you say this is your video, I will commend you for your effort and good intent to provide info for others. I am not someone who likes to crap on other peoples work but I do have some constructive comments as a longtime caster. Your video is good as it shows the process and gives people who don't cast an idea how it goes (which was your intent). Couple of things on equipment: - The pot you are using is not assembled correctly. It appears the other pot in the video is correctly assembled and you should either use that one or use it as an example to correctly assemble the second one. - The mould is also not assembled correctly and that could lead to it being damaged. The sprue cutter handle should be bolted to the underside of the sprue plate and is used to cam open the sprue plate and the camming force helps cut the solidified sprue. The mould (actually an 8 cavity made by MP Moulds in Slovenia. NOE Moulds in Utah only makes up to 5 cavity moulds) is a copy of the Lee mould and the sprue cutting lever is set up the same way. Look at the Lee 6 cavity you have and see how the sprue lever is mounted and how it cams against the side of the mould block to cut the sprue when pulled to the right on opening. Now about casting: - Preheating the mould is a good practice but once you get everything up to temp you need to adjust your temp for optimal casting. It appears you are running your lead extremely hot and you are not letting your sprue cool enough before dumping bullets. Frosted bullets are actually a indication of the alloy being too hot. Alloy that is too cold results in bullets with rounded edges and wrinkles. Frosted bullets are not wrong but because you are running your alloy hotter you need to make sure you are cooling the filled mould enough between pours. I like to run two moulds and alternate them so it gives the other mold time to cool while I am working with the other one. - When filling the cavities in the mould you should make sure there is a decent puddle of lead on the top of the mould. When the lead is solidifying in the mould cavity it shrinks and actually draws more lead into the cavity from the sprue. Also, having a nice puddle of lead/sprue on the mould helps keep the heat of the mould consistent for more consistent casting. Hope this was constructive help for you and made sense. If you have any questions about what I talked about above or any about casting/coating/sizing please ask. I am always happy to help out fellow casters/reloaders.
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