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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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Everything posted by Intel6

  1. I use Lancer mags and I have found that there are no issues with the metal feed lips tearing up the brass? And as a reloader I would specifically not use them if they did. In fact I specifically use Lancers in my .458 SOCOM because they work great and don't tear up the brass. Yes they have metal feed lips but they are finished off smooth (not just a stamped out part with a sharp raw edge) and do not even scratch the brass?
  2. Great match and especially great weather for both matches. With the little amount of match type shooting I have done in the past few years I was happy to make it to 9th in USPSA revolver(15 with the open guys). I tied for best stage finish being 4th on stage 1 & 4. Very happy with the finish on stage 1 which was the always challenging Schmidt Standards.
  3. For the most part yes I do. Quenching for improved bullet hardness depends on the bullet metal composition. You have to have the right metals in the mix to make quenching work they way it is supposed to. Many question the fact that the quenched bullets are being heated back up during coating and has an affect on the hardness. Many just quench after coating also to get better final hardness. I quench both times for bullet hardness but also for efficient handling purposes. That way I am never siting around waiting for bullets to cool before I can take the next step with them. One
  4. You are certainly welcome. I am glad you got it working like it is supposed to and I am always happy to help out.
  5. You should use the .310" but many have used .309" and there are also .311" bullets out there but the .310" are for the 7.62x39. Many die sets come with two different neck expanders for loading 7.62x39 with .309" or .310/.311" bullets. Make sure you are using the right one in order to get the proper neck tension.
  6. The handle that is attached to the sprue plate (right hand side) should be bolted to the underside of the plate and the rounded cam surface should contact the side of the mould. After the pour and the sprue is solidified you pull the handle to the right and it cams the sprue plate to cut the sprue loose. It works just like the Lee 6 cavity, compare the MP mould to the Lee to get it correct. I took a few pics of my MP mould with the sprue plate handle attached. The first is from above the mould and the second is with the sprue plate open from the undersiade. OK, kinda wonky look
  7. I agree, I like to make sure everything is filled out so I run hotter and mine are frosted. Your concerns about opening the mould too early are valid and may apply here. Since the camming sprue handle is not installed correctly I think he is opening before the lead is solidified because he wouldn't be able to get it open very easily since he is cutting 8 sprue openings. Also since he is not getting a sprue puddle it is easier for him to open the sprue plate as he is not cutting through much from what I can see in the video.
  8. As you say this is your video, I will commend you for your effort and good intent to provide info for others. I am not someone who likes to crap on other peoples work but I do have some constructive comments as a longtime caster. Your video is good as it shows the process and gives people who don't cast an idea how it goes (which was your intent). Couple of things on equipment: - The pot you are using is not assembled correctly. It appears the other pot in the video is correctly assembled and you should either use that one or use it as an example to correctly assemble
  9. I use Longshot for high end loads in 10mm using 180-200 gr. bullets. It is the right burning rate and since it is a ball powder it works well in my Dillon's. You will easily find published data out there for it.
  10. I got registered for both matches but couldn't squad on SAT/SUN for the S/S match? There are squads with zero people in them but it is all RED and you cant squad?
  11. I was going to say, the jigs with the ball detent to hold the case (like this one) are really great. I borrowed a buddy's to cut some cases down and the ball detent made it easy and fast, just like you see in the video. Most others you need to keep your finger on the case to hold it in position while it get cut and is a PITA. The ones without the detent are usually cheaper because they are just 3D printed.
  12. I use my Tico tool, just like I use to keep my barrels clean. Been using mine for 30+ years and while it is a bit grubby it still works good, quick and easy. Tico Tool
  13. TJ, like reloading, better equipment can help cut your time down so it is tough to approximate time spent making 1,000 bullets. The key to casting decent quantities of bullets by hand is having molds with more cavities and a decent way of sizing bullets. I run 5-6 cavity molds for most of them but do have an eight cavity mold for making heavy 160 gr. rn's for my revolver. I also run a push through sizer (Star) which helps with the economy of motion when sizing. The last thing you need is having enough clean, ready to cast lead. The lead thing is probably the big showstopper th
  14. I cast and coat my own bullets with HiTek, been doing it for years and in fact just coated up 1,000 rds of bullets yesterday. The coating is applied with acetone which distributes the coating then evaporates off before baking. To check to make sure the coating is cured the easiest way it to do the wipe test. Take a clean white patch, soak with acetone and rub it on the bullet. If the coating has not been cured the coating will be dissolved back off the bullet on the patch. Once cured by heat you will not get any appreciable coating on the patch. Baking longer will not hurt the
  15. I use the lotion to get the initial coat on my hands (spray doesn't put enough on) and found that during a match I tend to lose some of the grip on my palms as I tape/handle gear/load mags etc. It is like the base is still there, just getting smoothed out or filled in with dirt/grime. Rather than putting on a whole new base over the dirt on my hands I use the spray as a touch up to refresh my grip. One pump on each palm does a great job in freshening up my grip. Doing it this way makes the regular lotion last longer and the spray bottle lasts me a long time. Usually I go through a
  16. Yes these were "half jacket" bullets made by Speer. I have shot lots of these back when they still made them and still have some sitting on the shelf. These are basically jacketed bullets and should be loaded as such. Think of it as a jacketed bullet where the jacket doesn't go up above the mouth of the case when loaded. Other than that it has the jacket on the bearing surface of the bullet where it is important. When I shot these they performed great and I have never heard of any issues with any jacket separation with these types of bullets? From what I saw they were discontinued by Speer
  17. Honestly I do not know. I have had the tool for 20+ years (there was only one choice when I got it) and it is slightly different looking but works the same way. I would rely on Brownell's tech service to make sure you get the right one.
  18. I use this tool to safely tighten the rod on my revolvers without damaging it and have never had any of them loosen during use. When you need to loosen it for maintenance you have to tool and don't have to use vise grips. extractor rod tool
  19. 160 gr. Bayou @1.170" Win Case Fed 100 3.1 grs of N320 gives me 804 fps ave. (129 PF) out of my S&W929
  20. I load 160 gr. bullets for my 929. I mostly use N320 but since I use a lot of WST in other loads I tried it also for the 929 and it worked well. Both of these powders are very clean in the 929 loads which is important for me.
  21. Intel6

    Max Michel 1911

    Just measured both my .40 & .45 ACP MAX pistols (sorry don't have a 9mm yet) and found they both seemed to be the same at 0.255" It was a PITA because there are those little relief cuts around the blade but I kept coming up with around the same measurements.
  22. Aaaand the the 6 Grendel is much just a 6 PPC that has been around for may many years before that I have been shooting it since the early 90's
  23. ChuckS is right. I got my 650 in 1995 and it had that style of funnel. They had a plastic insert to fit inside for 9mm so it wouldn't do that. It worked but was a PITA to install and take out when going to another caliber. One Area 2 years ago I brought my 650 w/casefeeder with me and dropped it off at Dillon for a refurb. They replaced the whole case feeder (mine didn't have the metal plate on the side) and I noticed they did away with flat sided funnel and went with a round one which works fine without the insert.
  24. Your problem is that the CCI primers are slightly larger in diameter than other brands. They are still within tolerances, just larger. Learned this long ago when I used to hand prime all my reloads. The CCI were always harder to get in the pockets and almost impossible in Mil cases. I use CCIs on some batches of brass when regular primers start going in a little too easy. I found CCI primers have just a bit more friction and lets me continue to use the brass. Since the 750 is manually primed by you pushing the handle on the return stroke you should feel the resistance and know i
  25. I have a bone stock STI Eagle in 45 ACP and it runs lead 200 SWC's fine. I got new STI mags (had it for 10+ years so Gen 1 mags) with it and have used them with no issues, no tuning needed with mine.
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