jaredr

"i want my vulcan hesse rifle to be the best" my sides still hurt from laughing at that link...

just started on vendetta, this thing is hilarious. the firearms references and "action scenes" are always entertaining, but his take on mythology and folklore is comedy gold. I don't want to give anything away for folks who haven't read it yet, but the trolls and gnome stuff was just genius. once you go gnome, you'll never go home baby!:roflol:

welcome aboard!

I genuinely laughed out loud at that one - that's comedy gold right there!

not a bad idea, but these guys beat you to it ETA - this is the pigail b2alpha refres to above

The gage is hust that a gage might be different from even from the same company. If you fire some fairly stout loads with known brass (new,once fired). Keep these for reference. Take a punch or out of the die decap stem and knock out the primers. Now you can measure the headspace of YOUR chamber with a headspace tool. Get an average of say 5 cases you are going to keep as your gages. The measurement will be from the back of the case to the datum line on the shoulder plus the gage measurement. (this will be about .001 short of your actual chamber as the brass bounces back some). Now take some of the same batch of cases and set up your sizing die to size the cases .004 shorter than that(as mentioned). You are now good to go. Also remember the different chamber reamer types don't reflect true headspace the depth the reamer is run in does. So you could have a Wylde chamber with too much, too little, or between min/max, depending on who did the work. (same as the gages discussed) Personally I would hesitate trusting a gage until I proofed it to my chamber using the above process. Powder Finger - wondering why you specify removing spent primers before measuring with a headspace tool? Is it because the spent primer may have "dished" or flowed a bit and would throw off the gauge (because flowed primer would exend beyond base of case a thousandth or two)? Exactly, you don't want any chance of measuring part of the primer just the back of the case (which is the bolt face). Also sometimes especially if it's not a stout load the primer will acually back out a little and since we are dealing with thousands of an inch measurments you want to get as deal on as you can. If you think about it if you have .004 primer set back as part of your measurement and set your die up to that, then your brass will be .004 long at least. at worst with an AR you are finishing the case sizing in the chamber with the bolt being the press. In that case you are putting a beating on the bolt and may gall the back of the bolt and barrel extension. At best you may have function problems. With a Bolt gun you will probably have a hard to close bolt, but the same damage can occur. Later Good info, thanks!

actually, you can sell projectiles with no federal licensing required - it's sale of loaded ammunition (or reloading "services" if you're using customer brass) that requires an O6 FFL

innovation and self sufficiency is always cool. welcome aboard!

#21 brought a smile to my face...

The gage is hust that a gage might be different from even from the same company. If you fire some fairly stout loads with known brass (new,once fired). Keep these for reference. Take a punch or out of the die decap stem and knock out the primers. Now you can measure the headspace of YOUR chamber with a headspace tool. Get an average of say 5 cases you are going to keep as your gages. The measurement will be from the back of the case to the datum line on the shoulder plus the gage measurement. (this will be about .001 short of your actual chamber as the brass bounces back some). Now take some of the same batch of cases and set up your sizing die to size the cases .004 shorter than that(as mentioned). You are now good to go. Also remember the different chamber reamer types don't reflect true headspace the depth the reamer is run in does. So you could have a Wylde chamber with too much, too little, or between min/max, depending on who did the work. (same as the gages discussed) Personally I would hesitate trusting a gage until I proofed it to my chamber using the above process. Powder Finger - wondering why you specify removing spent primers before measuring with a headspace tool? Is it because the spent primer may have "dished" or flowed a bit and would throw off the gauge (because flowed primer would exend beyond base of case a thousandth or two)?

i would agree. use a flashlight, separate out the ones (if any) which have some media stuck in the bottom of the case and use those for designated practice or plnking. a small piece of corncob or walnut media will have a marginal effect on accuracy (for me, it would probably be hard to tell whether it was the ammo or the shooter) and the media certainly won't be enough to remain stuck in there and interfere w/ignition. I say this only because the first batch of .308 I loaded, I did exactly what you described - decapped, resized, and trimmed on one toolhead, then tumbled clean and back to the press on another toolhead to load. After about 100 rounds, I realized that the decapping pin in station one of the "loading" toolhead wasn't screwed down far enough to punch out the media, so most of what I loaded still had a little kernel of corncob stuck in the flashhole (as did all the ones waiting for their turn to be loaded). I was too lazy to pull the bullets, figured i'd segregate them and see how they worked for designated practice rounds. absolutely no problems setting them off, and couldn't see any measurable impact on accuracy. what did i (re)learn - always check all dies, run a test catridge through the toolhead and check it at each station.

man, that's freudian - I got the email with notification that the thread had been updated, and at a glance, I could have sworn it said: Yargne has just posted a reply to a topic that you have subscribed to titled "White Castle Grave Case". maybe i'm reading the future?

man that reticle looks crowded to me. not sure i see the value in a second focal plane 1-4 scope? Wouldn't you keep it mostly at either 1x (for up close) or 4X (for longer out). Do you really need the ranging capabilities of the first focal plane for, say 2x usage at 200 yds? not trying to be a hater, looking to better understand its value over the 2nd focal plane 1-4 viper (which I believe is also much less expensive?) school me on this.

chiming in with a beat-down for the G3 but you will see HK-91 owners first in line at the chiropractors! sorry, can't pass up an oppty to whine about how that thing beats the heck out of my shoulder. i sold it a while a ago and still bear it a grudge...

/unproductive whining mode on worst is if they're the vendor for a "patented" product that no one else can offer - they're unreachable, and you can't go anywhere else. /done now

my left arm is tingling just reading this thread...

looking forward to it, thanks for the heads up. really enjoyed the first book, saving Vendetta to read over the winter holidays.

FWIW, i've had the same experience with xm193 this year - mostly primers popping from overpressure rounds and tieing up the gun (lodging in the fire control group or in one memorable case bhind one of the lugs on the barrel extension, where it was virtually invisible!). Had one instructor who indicated that after a series of these problems non-stop in an LE class, he'd returned the remainder of a case of the product to federal, and had been told later on that it had tested out in excess of 65k psi, tho i'm not sure how this information made it back to him. Pat Sweeney recently posted that these problems may be due to using 5.56 ammo in a .223 chamber, and can be remedied by using one of ned christenson's reamers to clear out the throat. that may be so, but at the class I attended, I two of the folks having these problems were using a colt 6920 (5.56 chamber) and a noveske (which has some proprietary variant of the sammi 5.56 chamber according the the noveske website - i don't know the details of how it differs from 5.56) funny - I have a wilson gauge that appears to be a bit tighter than my Dillon. some cartridges that won't gauge in the wilson will gauge just fine in my dillon gauge. i just take everything that gauges in the dillon but NOT in the wilson gauge and keep it for practice ammo, ammo which passes the wilson gauge is good for classes/matches.

ok, i'm interested - will watch this thread and see what comes out, thanks for heads up.

maybe some useful specs here - http://www.ar15barrels.com/profiles.shtml. they show a "featherweight" profile of .550", that's mighty small (barrel wall less than .2" if I've done the math). Not sure if it would be unsafe for normal semi-usage, but i'd sure be concerned about my zero wandering significantly as the barrel heated up.

congrats. my stainless bisley in .45 colt is one of my favorite handguns for plinking steel. i don't own any .44 specials, but have a few S&W in .44 magnum that i usually shoot with a lead 240 gr bullet at around 850 fps (basically downloading the round to .44 special velocity). It's a lot more fun for recreational shooting and I don't have to screw the sideplates back on the revolver after each range session:roflol:

fwiw, several years ago i had a case of WSP that had about half a dozen bad primers, i.e. primers that were positively seated and would not go off after multiple strikes from different handguns. at the time, I just chalked it up to bad luck and moved on, but from then on I started keeping my primer lot # with my load data (actually, printed out my load data on an avery label and then stuck the label on the back of the winchester primer cardboard sleeve with the lot # on it).

maybe unconstructive here if we're talking about merits/performance of failzero coating, but i've never had any problems with quality ar parts and generous lubrication. failzero product may work well and have some use in environments/applications where lubrication burns off too quickly (trying to avoid ATAS armchair commando speculation), but so far i've always had good luck with mil-spec bcg and fire control parts and just lube the heck out of it.

I have found it just as fast. plus, i'm no longer weighed down with all that surplus cash in my pockets ok, not really a constructive posting, just venting some thinly disguised frustration that I can't come anywhere close to rationalizing the cost of this thing (for me, anyway)

i guess your armorer won't allow XM193 either just being a smart-ass, XM193 has been notorious for over-pressure rounds which result in the primer being blown out of the cartridge and then occasionally falling into the fire control group in the lower receiver or getting caught behind on the barrel lugs. either scenario ties up the gun. I could understand requiring officers to qualify with duty rifle ammo as reloads may have different external ballistics (i.e. may have a different point of impact vs. point of aim) than duty ammo, especially if you are qualifying at 100 yds or further tho I don't know any departments that qualify beyond 100 yards for general officers with issued patrol rifle. At 50 yards or closer, almost anything coming out of an AR barrel (except subsonic) is going to hit the same place, so requiring people to do all their up close carbine training with expensive stuff like trophy bonded core is unfortunate and (my opinion) wasteful. Not sure why your armorer would disallow use of reloads for training (or why he would think that any brand of firearm "doesn't like" reloaded ammo). I'd say those concerns are based on misinformation or just bad tradition,