jaredr

depends on how fast they're going when you get in their way

beautiful pistol! Can you tell us who made the grips? thanks, jared

+1 for hornady one shot. if you do a search on the forum you'll find many many recommendations for using it on straight-wall pistol cartridges (even when loading with carbide dies).

i've found that most of the issues I have re: indexing a new cartridge into the shellplate are now due to tumbling debris (usually very small bits of corncob material that don't get completely removed from clearing the brass in the squirrelcage after tumbling). cartridges would either be pushed to one side or the other or riding on top of a small granule of corncob and get wedged into the shellplate cockeyed, which would tie up the press until you manually retract the cartridge feeder and free up the case. Not sure if you're encountering any of this, but i've found it helpful to blow out the cartridge feed assembly and each of the shellplate notches once every thousand or so rounds. I've found this more of an issue with .223 as it seems harder to completely clear your polishing media after tumbling the longer rifle cases.

i heard the same thing in a pat rogers carbine class re: durability/reliability of colored (tan, foliage green) PMAG's vs. standard black. His comment was if you want the mag to be a color other than black, buy a black one and spraypaint it. as a civilian, it makes no difference to me so I use the black ones, tho I have seen a small # of blaze orange mags that were absolutely fantastic when it came to finding your dropped empties on the grass

not unreasonable question, call it "newer" . Once fired factory ammo picked up off the floor of an indoor range is definitely newer than stuff that was picked up off the gravel at Blackwater after a season in the sun and rain and then resold as once fired (with no real idea of how many times it had been fired before it was actually collected for reuse/resale). on this forum, people are (my experience) honest to a fault, and if someone says it's "once fired" than it means just that (lot of times people collect from LE ranges where there are generally no commercial reloads used). Otherwise, if someone doesn't know the history of the brass beyond the fact that it is an unknown range pickup, they say so up front and will price it accordingly on classifieds.

for a nice flat surface like a concrete apron (or even a carpeted floor in an indoor range), the old broom and dustpan work pretty well too:roflol:

agreed. maybe not a safety risk, but i've had mud impair my visibility from .223 into a wet berm 15 yards away. PITA but otherwise no issues.

All of the parts you list are good parts, although several are more expensive than required. factory trigger groups can often be quite satisfactory with a little attention and JP red or yellow springs; if you're on a budget, wouldn't be terrible to start with a DPMS parts group trigger and an $8 set of JP yellow springs from brownells. It's definitely not the same as a JP trigger, but it's an easy way to get started for $120 less and you can always put money into a fire control group later on...

I chamfer the leading edges of the "notch" in the shellplate where the cartridge is inserted (just a few strokes with a swiss cut file to knock the sharp edge off and put on a slight bevel). This was a tip i picked up from somewhere else on the forum and i've found it helps quite a bit for .223 (which is what I have loaded most of on the 1050).

yeah, i probably should have just gone and gotten a soda before hitting that "post reply" button

guess i'm late to the party, just saw an ad for these and checked out the videos on surefire's site. products look interesting and they appeared reliable in surefire's staged product demonstrations on video. maybe it's just me but I thought surefire's sales pitch video came across as an embarassing piece of hucksterism and ass-banditry disinformation. starting off by demonstrating that you can do a static 200 round mag dump much faster using surefire's 100 round magazine and then advocating that as a huge selling point was an embarassment, and (I thought) insulting to anyone in the mil/le community to whom they're marketing this stuff. or maybe their marketing people are much smarter than me and they're really just winding up the "military applications" and flag waving sales pitch so all the tommy tactical folks will buy an trunkload of them and keep them loaded up in case or armeggedon. I think it's great that they're engineering higher capacity magazines, and competition for magpul on this front will benefit everyone (new product development, competition between vendors on pricing, etc). I guess i shouldn't be surprised that a staged sales video doesn't touch on any of the potential drawbacks from applying this product in a non-gaming scenario (simplest being that using 100 round mags to carry a 7 mag loadout in 2 mags means if you have 1 magazine failure you just lost use of half your ammo). Sorry to get on a soapbox, I just felt the whole sales pitch was so obtuse it insults anyone who actually goes into harms way. There, I feel better for bitching in public. I'll probably buy a 60 round for multi-gun, will just be sure to paint it tan so everyone knows i'm using the same kit as the guys "in the sandbox"

frog legs are fine. it's the stuff coming out of the frog orifices which GentlemanJim mentions that I'm not too keen on...

Standing unsupported, Terrible. probably a 15-20% hit rate. I never got all 4 plates with my 10 round mag. It was my first time trying at 50 yards. The sights were all over the place. At 25 yard, for a low ready. I was running mid 4 seconds for all 4 plates. I was surprised at how quickly it went down hill. I felt much the same way moving a 6" plate back to 100yds from 50 and shooting from standing or kneeling. All of a sudden, things had gotten much harder (cue homer simpson sound effect).

this is more or less shaping up to be the terrible truth for me: if it's big or fairly close than just shoot it standing unsupported (if a low barricade is available, then the extra stability from bracing against the barricade in the kneeling position is worth the time to get into that position). if the target is not big or close, than (for me) it's probably not worth screwing around with kneeling, sitting, squatting, whatever, and I should just get on with it and get prone ASAP. only caveat is (as you mentioned) if visibility is obscured from prone, than maybe sitting (or if you're competing on a field of medical waste and don't want to lay down but that's an unlikely gaming scenario) sounds like a very useful drill to keep you in shape on field positions. have to say, if the off-hand and kneeling strings are 3MOA, then you're doing wayyy better than me

This is what I have been doing. Got a nordic upper, threw my acog TA11 on it. Got some 2" spinners at 50 yards and have been working on shooting in different positions. The only issue I have found is that the Winchester bulk pack ammo groups almost the same size as the plates, so its hard to tell if its you or the ammo. I have much better luck with CCI AR .22 and will have to use that in the future how are you doing hitting a 2" target from 50 yds from any position besides prone? I'll address that question to the board, just curious whether anyone bothers trying to hit a 4 MOA target from sitting/kneeling or does everyone just get prone for shots smaller than a given size. for me, if it's 6 MOA or smaller, it's not worth shooting from sitting/kneeling, I might as well just get prone and get there in a hurry.

i wasn't aware of this. can you advise where you found this information? i'd like to know more about how the different 9mm and .38 special self defense loads fared in comparison to each other. thanks in advance, jared.

I suspect from some frog orifice man, that really doesn't jibe with their "food grade" marketing assurances

yes - the ones that aren't being offered for $1,000 because they're "collectors items" serisouly, others have already called out the same pros and cons I'd recount. terminal ballistics (at least through the chrono and on paper which is all I have experience with) are not much different between self defense 9mm and .38 special +P rounds. won't stray into what is "better" for self defense, but the 642 is very reasonably priced ($350 or less retail) and +P 38 special is all I would want to practice with. The current 640's are rated for .357 magnum, but that's not real pleasant to shoot our of a J-frame, even a steel one. The super-trick scandium revolvers are also rated for .357, but I found firing a full-house .357 magnum out of them very unpleasant, certainly wouldn't want to practice with that on a regular basis and they're several hundred dollars more than a 642. my $.02 - i'd get a 642 if I was choosing amongst J frame revolvers, best value and chambered for a caliber that won't beat you up too badly if you're going to invest the practice time it will require to become proficient with it.

PM sent maineshootah - i've also been looking into this for a bit, keen to hear your experiences with this stuff. unless there's something personal in your pm, would you mind sharing with the board? thanks, jared

thanks all for comments, much appreciated. ok, thanks. i shoot mostly on 100yd square range. cannot move target back, so just look at making the target smaller to simulate distance. understand shortcoming to that approach is that i can't validate/practice my dope for shooting at distance, but I can break that up into a separate exercise for those limited times I can get access to a 500 yd range. will add this sort of thing to the range practice card. question about the math you mention for the flash target If we're just using the 10" circle, then that would be a 2.5 MOA target @ 400, right? If we count the 5" box on top (the "head" part") then it's a 15" target, which would be 3.75 MOA @ 400 yards, i.e. 15 (size of target in inches) divided by 4 (# of 100 yd lengths of distance). Just want to make sure I am using the right math. Since i only have access (for the most part) to a 100 yd range, that tells me I should be spending some time hitting 3-4" targets at 100 yds on the clock. agree that it is worth practicing marksmanship + cardio. i started practicing an aggregate drill i got from green eyes & black rifles (10 rounds @ 100 yds prone, 10 from 75 yds sitting, 10 from 50 yds kneeling, 10 from 25 yds standing). easy to do very well, until you started 50 yds back (out on the parking gravel at my range for the 100 yd string) and then ran into position showing up all huffing and puffing made life more difficult. i don't usually do separate cardio, rather just practice a course with a lot of movement and see how your time/score holds up. harder to do in August than February. agreed. i use a cmmg 22 rimfire adapter for practicing shooting while moving and it allowed me to improve tremendously without bankrupting me or burning out a few barrels, but this approach (adapter shooting .22 rimfire through 1/7 twist AR barrel) is really only accurate enough to be used @ 40 yds or less. have been on the fence about a dedicated .22 rinfire upper, problem has been either buying a second optic for the dedicated upper or swapping the optic back and forth between uppers (not really practical as it will burn up a ton of time re-zeroing). Eventually I'll bite the bullet and get the .22 rimfire upper and backup/second optic.

not being a jackass but the challenge (for me) is still pretty much the same. I <might> be able to make out a quarter @ 50 yards if i spraypainted it blaze orange, but I'd still pretty much obscure it with the dot from my eotech). i might be able to see it better through irons, but I'd still be taking a while to get a good sight picture if I wanted to get good first shot hits. if you're shooting quarters at 50 yards, then i'd say that's very competent marksmanship but i'd also ask how fast are you shooting them?

ok, thanks. maybe i've been slacking off plinking on a 12 MOA target with .5 to 1.0 splits seriously, .2 second splits is a lot more challenging than what I've been working for tho i'm still shooting an uncompensated 16" rifle w/carbine gas system. good to hear what others are setting as their own goals. jtischauser - if you're shooting 2 MOA, can I ask what your objective is for cadence or for splits/transitions? not saying it can't be done (and certainly with a magnified optic) but curious to know what your goal is for speed at that level of accuracy.

you're kidding, right? I can't even see a 2 MOA target at 100 yards with an unmagnified optic. Are you really hitting 2" circles @ 100 yards with a red-dot? edited for crummy spelling

looking to get some feedback from others on what level of precision/accuracy they're striving for in their own long gun (AR/sporting rifle) training. Easy enough to say "as accurate as possible", and as long as you can go prone and take your time (lots of it in some cases) then you can probably get close to the mechanical accuracy of the firearm & ammunition but I'm not sure that sort of practice will help me improve much in any of the multi-gun sports. i'm trying to figure out what level of accuracy (in MOA) I should be setting set as a goal when shooting from field expedient positions (kneeling/stretch kneeling, sitting, rice-paddy squat, etc) on the clock. I'm never going to shoot a 1" group shooting from kneeling using a red-dot sight, so don't see a point in setting that as a goal - would rather set realistic (albeit challenging) objectives and work towards them. have been practicing field position shooting (kneeling, sitting, VTAC barricade positions) at 50 and 100 yards using an MGM speed plate auto popper, basically a small auto-resetting popper with a 6" diameter circle. At 50 yards, i've got a 12 MOA target which i'm finding very easy to hit consistently as long as I'm paying attention. At 100 yards, it's a bit more challenging with a red-dot (once it's been hit a few times, the plate takes on a mottled gray appearance that blends in with the gravel berm so target id is challenge in and of itself). with a 4x magnified optic, it's not too difficult to get good hits but time certainly suffers as I need to take more time to settle the sights before taking the shot. anybody want to share the standards or field drills they're training for (i.e. 10 hits on 6 MOA target in 25 seconds or something like that)? Curious to know if others are working with 4 MOA targets and starting slow, or maybe using 8 MOA (or larger) targets and setting a higher standard for speed? thanks, jared