jaredr

actually, in it's time i believe it was a better mousetrap (if the objective is to provide a safe sub-2lb trigger pull). what i think "killed" it wasn't that it was a bad idea, but that this feature was an expensive and labor intensive piece of work that required a skilled pistolsmith (no kitchen table filework and drillpress). This was only worth getting done when there were no easier or more cost effective alternatives. fast forward 25 years and improvements in manufacturing technology allow boneheads like me to go to brownells and buy a koenig ultra light hammer, EGW sear, and get a drop-in trigger group that's equal to what took people hours of labor to weld up and file down back in the 80's. way back when, the guncraft pivoting trigger was a neat idea that provided some reduction (at least perceived reduction) in trigger pull. Today, not sure there's a need to pursue it given how (comparatively) easy it is to now get a 100% reliable 2lb trigger from any of the master pistolsmiths who support our sport. edited because I can't spell...

don't believe you can set the depth on a 650. I'm loading .223 (and pretty much everything else) on 1050's which allows you to vary primer seating depth by raising (or lowering) the primer system tappet. depth micrometer I had to recently switch from WW to remington primers and for the first time I can recall, I actually saw high primers when I checked the first test run from the press. Usually, you mike the first dozen or so cartridges, make sure that everything measures out, charges weight out, etc. but you never expect to to see any variances that require attention. I ran the first five rounds after breaking open a case of remington 7&1/2's, ran a straightedge across the cartridge head and let out a stream of curses. I then spent an hour measuring individual primers with a dial caliper (no measurable difference from the remaining winchester primers i had for reference measurements), pulling bullets and decapping high-primed brass to measure primer pockets, etc. couldn't figure out why primer seating depth needed to be increased but it sure did. Prompted me to ask what depth others considered "good" (but pretty obvious that a round which teeter-totters on a primer protruding from the base is <not> good:angry2:). I'll call it an x-files experience and move on, but frustrating as it was, reminds you that you're not wasting time on first article inspection...

Thanks george - glad to hear the gun(s) are working out for you and appreciate the detailed info on the delatapoint. i've been pondering about putting a red-dot on one of my production guns and its reassuring to hear that you're seeing no issues with reliability on any of yours (even after 4000 empty 9mm cartridges bouncing off of one!)

hey - you're in luck. I hear Lee is going to coming out with one of these shortly, should address all of your issues:devil:\ sorry, couldn't resist... I'll contribute $2 to the Richard Lee Anti-Defamation League as penance...

maybe it's just the OCD in me i've used .005 as a minimum for as long as I can remember but couldn't recall where I got that number from. Not sure that .005 is meaningfully better than .004 (or some other number), but it was a nice round number and none of the new-manufactured commercial ammunition i used for comparison was under .005. Plus, when you run a straightedge over a cartridge with the primer .005 below flush, you get a nice clear shadow that tells you you're good:lol:

probably the american spirit arms side charger. I believe it used to be made by another manufacture and then ASA bought them out, but cannot recall who that original company was.

can't find a published specification, am seeing between 5 and 8 thousands (.005 - .008) on factory ammo from Black Hills, Remington, Federal. Would like to know what others have adopted as a minimum seating depth? Attempted to find what the "mil specification" is for green tip but my search-fu is weak, if anyone has a link would appreciate it if you would pass on. thanks, jared edited to clarify: am referring to seating depth below case head, so primer would be (using figured above) between .005 and .008 below the surface of the cartridge head.

same here. I just write "INERT" on the side with a sharpie. it get's worn off and then you just write it again, can get through quite a few cycles before they become so beat I have to retire them. With the high cost of lead shot (vs. the low cost of 100 pack value-mart winchester 12ga), making these is pretty much all i use my MEC for these days...

Bingo. i have it on good authority les baer uses goats for his nat. match bullseye guns...

very nice George!! what are your thoughts on the delta point - how do you like the triangular reticle vs, a dot? Anything in particular that moved you towards the leupold vs. a JP/doctor optic or one of the trijicon RMR's? Thanks, jared

i've loaded many thousands of lead .45 200 gr lswc's through mine. Do a search on "+bulletfeeder +lead" and you'll see a couple of posts on this. If you're using something like a laser cast bullet with a hard lube, you can get away with more infrequent cleanings. if you shoot cheap valiant bullets like i do with a gummy soft bullet lube, then you'll need to clean things up every 500-1000 rounds.

sorry man, nothing makes me happier than knowing someone is using one of James Dyson's products to produce small arms ammunition:cheers: strikes me a little like using a printed volume of the works of ghandi to prop up your reloading bench

i'm waiting to see pictures of the automated robotic elves he built to fill the collator and empty the sized cartridge bin:cheers:

hey, thanks alamo. I was was just wondering if someone had a spec on the part for ordering it from someplace like J&L or MSC. I'll just take mine off the toolhead and measure the cutter - pretty sure it was 1/4 w/chip grooves on each side but shouldn't be too hard to ID for size and thickness. I don't begrudge Mike Dillon a living, but these things are like $5-$6 each from a tool supply company (even for a US-made part), and I'd like to lay in a 1/2 dozen or so just to have spares. <--$5.97 from MSC

Exactly....sure was a lot of drive in those 8 year olds to continue mission their entire lives. hey, kids back then had discipline - no free love hippy cr@p for them!

anyone have the specification handy for the triangular carbide inserts for the RT1200? yes, could take mine off and get a caliper out, but i'm trying to avoid the trial and error of getting adjusted "just right" again. have an order going in to MSC, figured I would pick up a few for the boxer-primed steel case that eventually makes it's way in... thanks in advance!

so home depot didn't have any smaller vacuums for $20, but they did have exactly the step-down attachment I'd been looking for online. I don't know why the heck I didn't just check there in the first place, but this thing was $9 and lets me just use the full size shop vac I already own. the worst part is that I must have walked past these things 10 times in the last year, but never noticed the shelf full of shop-vac accessories...

was thinking of doing my own practice montage like kyle's, except I'd have not so many of the good, mostly the bad (slowly plodding along, inconsistent hand motions and body posture, every now and then just stopping to just stare at the ejection port), and a large portion of the ugly (looks like you're having a grand mal seizure once the buzzer goes off, 12 ga dummy shells fly across the room and every now and then your pants just fall down for no reason at all). ultimately decided that was video i didn't need to share...

hey kyle - video looks great, thanks for posting. can you tell what shell caddies are you using?

thanks much guys. I've been using the full-size floor standing rigid brand shop vac. I'll take another look at the local hardware store's section for shop vac hose fittings, but it sounds like you all are getting good results with a $20 cannister vacuum than that may be the simplest answer (and not much more than what it would cost if I had to buy 2.5" hose fittings mail-order and pay shipping costs).

thread drift... i've never used the barnes RRLP projectile - do you have any feedback on how it would compare with sinterfire? Specifically concerned with functional reliability (my experience w/sinterfire has been middle of the road at best - their projectiles seem very fragile and i've seen/experienced several failures to feed because the bullet was deforming/breaking on the feedramp, even in carbines w/M4 ramps) and also with penetration (i.e. does the barnes rrlp break up as completely, have the same or less penetration in things like plywood or other range materials)? i'm loading some frangible for specific range application, so far sinterfire has been the only product i've used. Keen to hear any feedback you've got on the barnes product, thanks in advance! back to regularly scheduled thread

$1.28 worth of roof flashing and some duct/electrical tape. maybe the best answers sometimes are just the simple one - thanks for the reality check. (but for my next one after I win the lotto I'm breaking out the tig )

currently connect my RT1200 to a shop vac with a rube goldberg assembly of duct tape and radiator clamps - functional, but truly an eyesore and occasioanlly irritating when it begins leaking. looking to construct a more reliable (and asthetically pleasing) way of connecting the RT1200's 1.25" OD suction intake to a shop vac (2.1" ID, 2.25" OD hose). I think some combination of this and this might work, but keen to see if someone else has already sorted this and has a part # they used successfully. Would rather learn from someone else's efforts if I can avoid buying have a dozen different hose couplers and piecing together the inside and outside diameters to make this work. thanks in advance.

thanks, I'll give that a try.

picked up a casepro and the posness-warren autodrive for it, very pleased but need to put together a more robust tray-assembly to catch the sized cartridges and funnel them into a bucket or collection bin. Was going to just buy a few sheets of kydex and try and fold something into shape, but curious to see how others have addressed this? If anyone has solved this on their own, would certainly appreciate any pics of whatever you've put together so I can start out on the right track! thanks in advance, jared