jaredr

ahh bummer, the mono core appeared easier to fabricate. ah well, no free lunch there... thanks for the reply!

jmorris, thanks for sharing photos - I really look forward to seeing pics of your fabrication work! quick question re: baffle design - looks like you went with individual k baffles for the 9mm, any particular reason for this vs. a monolithic stack? or maybe I am just misreading the baffle photo from your 9mm ar... thanks for any info you can share! -jaredr

i kept waiting for the "funny" part and then "whammo"! that was hilarious, thanks!

thanks Seth

seth - can you pass on any more info or share a pic of this alignment tool? just curious, i've been using my 650 for a few years now and had never heard of this tool. thanks in advance - jaredr

this.

yes not very well seriously, intention is not to discourage you (or anyone else) from working on developing new skills, but in my limited experience hand-checkering a front-strap is a very labor-intensive, time consuming piece of work where you can (somewhat irrevocably) screw things up with the slightest drift in concentration. not much of a trade-off using a mill - less requirement for freehand surgical precision, but you'll need a dividing head or a krebs type jig which are not inexpensive, and there's considerable effort (and skill) involved in setting the frame up properly. If you are going to give it a go, my suggestion is put in plenty of practice on bar-stock before you start on an actual frame... I gave it a shot a few times and decided that it was much less expensive (when you looked at time invested) to just go to a professional and pay them to do it. Also (for me) better to buy guaranteed quality vs. the crap shoot that I was looking at whenever I took a file into my own hands. I have used EGW for front-strap checkering and have always been very satisfied with their work, but there are also many other pistolsmiths on this board who are very highly regarded and will likely be able to take care of your needs. my $.02, best o' luck -jaredr

question - is that a KAC triple tap? if so, what are your thoughts? they look interesting, but do they really reduce side blast enough (while still being sufficiently effective as a comp) to justify the price tag? i understand they were something like $400 or more for civilian purchase, but my info may be incorrect. thanks, jaredr

glad to hear they are taking care of it. once you get a chance to put some time in with the new reticle, please let us know your thoughts! I saw it at shot back in January (i think) and it looked like something that might give the short dot a real run for it's money. keen to hear what you think once you've had some range time with it.

interesting to hear someone else mention this!! I too was experiencing this, ended up taking the back-up rod out, chucking it in a drill press and putting a bit more bevel on the edge of the rod. Has reduced the problem (doesn't happen as often) but I'll still end up catching the lip of a cartridge every now and then if I am not careful... keen to hear what others have to say (and how they may have resolved this problem if they have been experiencing it).

nahh, you should definitely stick with the M2, no need to lower your standards here so I'd steer clear of that 1100. uh, by the way, i didn't catch the name and address of the local dealer which had that 1100 you were looking at, wanna pass that on? seriously, $225 is a steal if you're willing to put a little elbow grease. good luck with it!

no argument, but at $100 a pop:surprise:, it was a big cry for me (and I'm not usually an emotional guy . actually, now that I'm looking it up, redding competition seating dies for 9mm are "only" $75 or so at midway. it's more precision then I needed to spend for my handgun reloading, but (to the OP) I certainly don't think you'll have any complaints about product quality or function if you can get over the purchase price... edited for screwed up emoticons

no personal experience with hornady CGND. I use the redding competition for .223 and .308 and have nothing but high praise for it, but never saw the need for it on pistol cartridges where I'm admittedly much more of a slacker on runout (i.e. i've never even measured for it on handgun cartridges). are you seeing bullets seated at an angle by your lee seating die or having other problems with die tolerance? If so, might consider just calling lee and sending it back to them before committing to something like a redding competition die (which is significantly more expensive). My $.02.

that video never gets old...

mpeltier - can i ask what you disliked about the Meopta? sincere question - I saw the new k-dot at SHOT and am thinking it's the one for me (once it's available), but I'm keen to hear from folks who've tried the kdot and found it not to their liking. thanks in advance, appreciate any feedback you can provide. -jaredr

i'm used to hearing people remind you to hydrate when you're shooting, this is the first time i've heard that warranted when you're reloading!!congrats on the move to new digs!

awesome! can you advise where? loved the first book, would love to buy the sequel if it's available. -jared

i can't believe it took an hour and a half for someone to come in on this

thanks for the replies, at least it's good to know i'm not the only one seeing this happen...

welcome aboard! is that Yorkshire as in up near bradford and leeds, or a different yorkshire altogether?

just replaced my PACT MkIV with a CED 7000. i'm used to clipping the timer to my front left pants pocket to keep it off the belt. worked ok with the PACT, except it was a little uncomfortable lugging around something the size of a small microwave clipped to the front of your pants... with the CED, not so much problems with size/bulk of timer, but i'm having some chellenges with the belt clip they sell which (at least in my case) is allowing the timer to flop all over the place when you're moving quickly. to be fair, CED's advert is correct when it says the clip "incorporates a hinge system that allows the timer to be rotated upwards comfortable viewing". issue i'm experiencing s that as the hinge is not spring loaded so there's nothing to actually hold the timer against the clip (except maybe gravity if you have it clipped vertically to the belt on your waist). I'm findingh that when I keep it clipped to my front pocket (since I have no room on the belt), the timer flops back and forth on it's rotating hinge as you're running on the range and as it does so the clip is slowing working it's way off of your pocket. I had a couple of instance when running a box drill where I made a sharp turn around a cone and it was the last straw for my timer, which came unclipped and sailed on without me i'm thinking a rubber band to hold the timer against it's belt clip and "spring load" it a bit might help, but wanted to ask if anyone else has experienced this problem and if so, what did you all do to fix it? thanks in advance for any assistance! -jared

look at the bright side. if you ever screw up the right side of your new(er) ambi safety, you've got a spare hanging in bag at the top of your bench

ahh, no problem, just peen out the fitting pad and bring out the files and dykem. unless you went totally nuts on it with a belt sander, you should be able to peen out enough material to refit it and it's a lot less embarassing then having to bring it to someone to get material welded on. not that i've ever had to do that before...

i can't imagine this series without christopher lambert as the asian god of thunder

whoa, 7 minute HD trailer, i was actually disappointed when the thing ended and i realized i would not get to watch the whole movie on demand cool trailer, always a plus to see michael jai white!