Intel6

Yes, I have the fully enclosed version for the 17L/24. I actually tried the open faced competition version BT sells and didn't like it at all. The fully enclosed is a straight up draw like my SS and limited holster so it works for me. It might be tough for shorter people with shorter arms? I am 6'4" and have long arms so the draw is no problem for me. I know the holster will work for all the shorter versions as I have tried the G17 and a G19 for the heck of it. I am still in the same place as I have been, I think you may be thinking of someone else?

I use the blade tech for my 17L & G24. Works just as good as all my other BT holsters.

Yes, I will be shooting Revolver again this year.

07 Taco driver here with 128K on the odometer. Bought it new and will keep driving it for a while, second kid entering college.

Got my confirmation for the main match yesterday in email.

I will second the .458 SOCOM. I bring that out with me to the range all the time, lots of fun.

I have shot my own cast and coated (Hi Tek same as bayou) bullets and some blue bullets through my Sub 2000 in 9mm and had no issues.

No issues. In fact Win is the brand I choose to reload for my 9mm major open gun and I have never had issues with it.

They do but they are a regular 2011 grip with polymer inserts/spacers so it is not like there was a separate mould made for the SS mags. Sometimes adapting something for another purpose doesn't work out as well as you would like as you can see from Eric's experience. Eric really works out his equipment and if he says they aren't that great I would take his word for it.

Shot a local match once and the last few shots on one of the stages were through a smaller diameter piece of plastic drain pipe at a target with a chrono on the other end of the pipe. So after the stage was complete the shooter could see what his velocities were. It was just a courtesy thing and it didn't affect the match and since it was part of the stage it didn't add much time. Yes there were some surprised/embarrassed people swearing up and down their loads were good.

Great News Eric, I thought it would work for you. Neal in AZ

Welcome Tyler, nice to see you here. You know my son Patrick who recently joined your group. Lots of info here, enjoy!

Chuck, 2016 High Desert Classic in Albuquerque, NM 8 - 9 October Neal in AZ

Eric, I have an Ice on both my G17L and G24 and they seem to work well for the limited amount of shooting I do with them. My big hands fit without getting jammed up into the trigger guard. You are already going to do it but I suggest trying one anyway! Neal in AZ

Depending on the makeup of the lead a mould of a specific capacity will not turn out a 1 lb. ingot. The same mould would be heavy with lead containing a high percentage of actual lead and lighter if it contains more antimony and tin. If you used a muffin tin you would need to fill it so it produced 1 lb. ingots, I think a full muffin pan ingot is more than 1 lb. If you are wanting to have 1 lb. ingots in order to make your own recipe you almost need to weigh and write the weight on them with a sharpie. Usually you want tin/antimony rich lead in smaller quantities in order to alloy scrap or range lead. If that is the case then you would want your base lead in bigger chunks which makes it easier to handle. When I render my scrap/range lead I cast them into 10 lb. bricks to make it easier as the base metal. Basically 40 lbs. of my range lead and a 5 lb. bar of superhard from Rotometals makes 45 lbs. of wheel weight equivalent alloy. Easier to throw 4 bricks in then 40 1 lb. ingots. I like the 10 lb. ingots (made with small muffin pans) because they are easier to store and move and they fit in the pot lengthwise so they are easy to use.

All I run are the older model measures with the springs. That is what they had when I first started using Dillon and had a few measures. Then I bought out a guy of his reloading stuff and got 7 more of the old style measures. All I have to do is keep enough springs handy as they do tend to let go after a while.

I picked up a MAX .40 towards the end of last year and have been liking it. I had checked out a .45 ACP version and thought for me, the gun has a lot of value because it is set up close to the way I would do it. My thoughts: PROS - my opinion Classic 2 tone look Stainless frame better than blued steel frame Nicely executed checkering on front strap Dawson front sight Koenig hammer/flat trigger Ambi safeties ICE mag well Decent G10 grips CONS - My opinion Series 80 trigger - dropped in a spacer plate External extractor - worried about it but it has been perfect Had to get a new holster as it doesn't work in a regular BT 1911 holster I had been using a borrowed Trojan prior to getting this and a Trojan was my other option. I figured to get the same basic thing as the MAX I would have to get a Dawson CRP package with hard chrome ($1,500) and change the trigger/safeties/grips and put some skate tape on the front strap to get it close to the MAX. As long as the configuration of the MAX is close to what you like I think it comes with a lot of value for the price. I got the Max and ran close to 1K rounds through it getting used to it and in practice and then ran it last NOV at the WSSSC in Rio with zero problems. The gun ran great and is still running great so I am happy with it.

I got a CR Speed holster for my Caspian open gun. It has spacers for the trigger width and can be adjusted for length so I was able to adjust it exactly how I needed it.

When loading rifle cases on the 550 or 650 I pause slightly on the downstroke to let the powder fall completely and now I don't have any misc spillage.

I had the same issues and found it was the primer chute sticking in the open position and not closing to catch the primer each time to deliver it to the cup. I replaced the cotter pin with a piece of paper clip and then stuck a small round magnet on the moving part of the chute (the back side) and that provided enough weigh to make sure it closes every time to catch the spent primer.

Nice! I love my CNC lower .45 ACP AR. see post #9

I shoot them until they look ugly and then turn them into .40 bullets and shoot them out of my limited guns. L to R: 195 gr. JHP 195 gr. JHP dual cannelure for revolver 210 gr. JSP 240 gr. JHP made out of a 9x23 case

I used to use once fired Win .40 brass (LE brass) for my limited loads using Win primers it was not a problem. Then I switched over to using Tula primers and they just didn't like each other. Loaded up a few K rounds for a Manny Brag class years ago after the National's and had light hits because they weren't seated enough. Started using one fired Fed .40 brass with the Tula primers and the Fed brass has a bit more generous primer pocket because I have had no issues since. Neal in AZ

I was loading .358" Bayou 160's for my S&W 627 when I picked up a 929. After reading some had loaded .358" bullets for the 929 and I already had some I decided to try it out. They loaded fine with N320 and shot well in my 929 with no issues so I continue to use them.

I picked up a SIG MAX in .40 towards the end of last year. Broke it in getting used to it and then changed out the springs and got rid of the series 80 parts. Ran a few k thru it in practice and had no problems related to the gun. It ran fine and I shot it at the 2015 WSSSC and had a flawless running gun at the match. It continues to run fine in practice. I am very happy with the SIG SS in .40 and would buy another one without hesitation.