Intel6

There have been some who have tried cleaning off their wax lubed bullets with solvents before coating and have really not had good results. The issues is you do not know how well you got off all the wax until you coat the bullets and bake them. I have had good luck with the Hi Tek coating but that is using freshly cast bullets. Neal in AZ

When I brought my whole 650 set up in to Dillon (when I was up for Area 2 one year) to get a refurb at the 15 year old mark I included the case feeder. When I got it back it had the new style funnel on it which is now round and does not use the insert, which I still have. Neal in AZ

Wall mart carries a two pack of batteries for fishing lures (thats whrere you find them) that when stacked together make up the battery. I have been using them for years and never had any issues. One nice thing about them is they are $2.98. Neal in AZ

I don't think the block will let the .40 case pass and it will definitly not work with .223 as the cases need the space in the funnel (without the block) to right themselves head down to fall into the tube. Neal in AZ

I have to admit most of this is not mine anymore as I certainly didn't buy all this for myself. This popped at PV just before the SS nationals and when I texted my shooting bud to tell him he said he couldn't do anything about it because he was enrout to the Nationals. I went ahead and maxed the order thinking it probably wouldn't go through but it did. $1,200+ later it arrived at the door and now I have something I can use instead of buring up the WST I have and can save it for loading shotshells. Neal in AZ

It is out there to be had, just not for long!

I wish I could get that per jug for these, over triple what I paid for it. 11 4 lb jugs x $349

The spring loaded priming punch can get dirt/primer ash in it and it will not retract completly back into its housing which will mean the primers will sit slightly high and get hit by the shellplate. Pull out your seating punch and see if it is going back into the body of the punch flush. If it isn't, that is the problem. Since the punch assy is not user servicable you can try and clean it but I found that will only work for a short time before it happens again. Call Dillon and see about getting it replaced. I have had my 650 almost 20 years and this has happened a few times. Neal in AZ

Being a .410 shotshell shooter/reloader I have always used Win 296 for my magnum stuff because I had it on hand for loading shotshells. These days people say W296 and H110 are the same powder so I guess I am in line with everyone else. Neal in AZ

I caught it in stock at the end of the day two weeks ago and I should have 44 lbs. delivered today if what FEDEX says is true. I put in 11 x 4 lb's jugs and the order took. I had never tried any and was getting it for a buddy who was at the Nat's and couldn't get it himself but I think with the way things are going I will keep a few jugs and see how good it is. Neal in AZ

My guess was TAC as it is a ball powder.

I got my 650 back in 1995 and a few years ago I dropped it off at Dillon when I was up there for the Area 2 match. I had started having minor issues with it and decided it was time to get it a check up. Got it back and there wasn't any major changes to it, mostly small stuff that they put on it when they were putting it back togeather. As far as I could tell not much had changed. Neal in AZ

I just went throught this on dies. Usually like Redding but nothing was avaiable. I was able to borrow a set of Redding and then put a set of Hornady on order so I could see the difference. I used the Redding and got the Hornady in and used them also. I like the Redding sizer but not the seater die. The Hornady sizer works fine and seater die seems to work better for all the different bullets I load including the pointy FTX bullet. I also am a big fan of the Redding profile crimp so I got the FTX profile crimp which will crimp bothe regular cases and the shorter Hornady FTX cases. So for dies I would say: Best option: Franken die set composed of a Redding sizer and FTX crimp dies with a Hornady seater 2nd: Hornady set with an FTX crimp die added to it. I will work with the 2nd option since I have them already but will add the Redding sizer eventually. Neal in AZ

Did the older case feeders need something changed on them? I seem to remember that you needed to get the new clear plastic front part of the case feeder to load 45-70. I know you guys changed the case feeder so I guess you don't need that anymore? Neal in AZ

I recently picked up a SBL and just got going reloading for it. I have both a 650 and a 550 and decided to load on the 550 because of the size of the case. It may have changed but it used to be that the conversion for that large of a case took more than the normal changeover on a 650. I also think that you used to have to change the case feeder but not sure of they have made it work in the newer feeders? I decided to not even mess with that and load on the 550 because I have that choice. Other than that it is no different than any other type of rifle cartridge on the 650. I have used the Dillon powder measure with the rifle bar for loading progressivly but mostly with ball powder or small short cut stick powder. With some of the bigger stick powders you will get the cutting of the granules which can be a PITA. Neal in AZ By the way, here is a pic of my SBL. It slapped a red dot on it until I get the Scout scope on it. the red dot makes it fun shooting steel plates with light cast bullet loads.

Redding Profile Crimp - Regular roll crimp but also puts some taper crimp on it also. Makes for a real consistent crimp.

Anyone want to guess what type of meat that nice lady was grilling? I didn't see any livestock or pens around there anywhere?

Yours look greally great. I had a roll of some heavy clear acetate for malking map overlays (from my Army days) and used that as it was thin but retaind the shot well and it was clear which was cool. I also found thin cardboard or even index cards worked OK but I just ended up using the acetate. I used the same basic thing (wad guide) from an old Lee hand shotshell reloader in .410 I had on the shelf to load the shot. I have #12 shot but I also used mostly #9 while testing loads and found it worked well enough to kill snakes. I think the wad setup does contribute to the pattern at those distances as it keeps the shot togeather more than the capsuls that shatter in the barrel and it lets the shot loose as soon as it clears the muzzle. As I said, I did this back in 2005 but now I am going to have to go dig up all this stuff and mess with it again. It was fun but I got distracted by some other project before really taking this too far. Neal in AZ

I was messing with this back in 2005 after I was able to borrow a RCBS forming die to use. After that I figured out how to do it without the die after I had to give it back. Trim down a 308/243 case, run it up into a .41 mag die for the false bullet shoulder, load, insert acetate/cardboard wad and roll the mouth over with the tapered opening of a smaller caliber seating die like a .38 or .32. Another thing you can do instead of a wad to hold the shot in is to just crimp a OO buck ball in the top of it. The other thing you can do is to make extended length shotshells for use in .45 ACP revolvers. By making the reduced part longer you can use the long throat of the cylinder to have a larger payload. It is also nice because you can have a whole cylinder load on moon clips to make things easier. Here is the process to get the shotshell Here is the buck & ball load showing the payload in the pan and a loaded round: Here are the longer revolver shotshell cases you see a trimmed and un trimmed case in the clip. Here is a pic of that same clip in a cylinder of a 625 showing how the case comes right to the edge of the cylinder. When you roll the top of the case it works fine. Neal in AZ

Now go away ... or I shall taunt you a second time.

Many have issues with tight chambers and short rifiling leads in the LW barrels. They do get taken care of by LW but they still have the issues inititally.

Back when I was zeroing my 90 degree mount open gun I found 17-18 yards seemed to be the consensus. I zeroed at 18 yards and that worked well for me. Neal in AZ

I have had both and now have 3 KKM barrels, KKM is the way to go. Neal in AZ

As others have said, the 8 was the way to go. Funny thing is I ended up doing better in the Revolver match than I did in the SS match? I finished up in 7th place behind some "real/full time" revolver shooters and figured it wasn't bad for someone who has only ever shot a special classifier with a revo and never a regular match. Another interesting thing for me was this was the first time I had ever shot a match in minor and it was a "different" experience and surely made me think about my shot placement during the match. I had a great time and hope to do it again! Neal in AZ

Yep, I will be up to shoot the WSSSC on Sat and Sun but will be heading up early to shoot the Revolver match they are having on Friday. Neal in AZ