kimberacp

thanks.

is the DVC Classic, SS legal, with the 5.4 barrel??? thanks

the frame tags, needs to be spot welded in order to fit a new safety, even if your using a .220 radius safety.

when I was shooting 45acp, TG gave a harsh recoil "bark" in 45acp. Clays or WST are better powders to use with a FMJ 230 gr and i was using a 14lbs recoil spring. At times it felt like cheating with that load.

that is the problem, it happen to me. I read it here on the forum, what it was. was guy found the answer in the colt gunsmith book by Kals"whatever" his name. its called "sear binding" your hold the disco, so it would move. good luck

no... if you back it out to much the trigger bow will just be push into the disco and keep it from moving up and down. screw the set screw more inward.

I shoot 9 and 40. one 1050, two tool heads with powder measurers, two shell plates.. priming systems stays the same. simple. maybe an 45 mins or less to change over. bottom line, you will not regret getting a 1050!!

does it do this with the magazine in the gun? check to see the bow is not touching the magazine tube. OR, not enough "overtravel" in the set screw, as you push the trigger rearward, will let the trigger bow make contact with the disco. your holding the disco, so it cannot move up and down. when the slide goes forward the disco, should be pushed up by the sear spring and the trigger bow go forward but if trigger is going too far back and your holding it, the disco will not go up to catch the feet of the sear and keep the sear in place to catch the hammer hooks as the hammer goes forward with the slide. you can see this if you reassemble the frame, without the thumb safety and grip safety. now you can view what is happening as you rack the slide. the trigger only has to move rearward, enough to push away the sear, maybe just a tab more, for clearance. JMO

am considering, yes, rebuild the top end but shooting minor in the future. Or shoot bullets in the 130 range. Lighter springs would be a problem with those bullets. The only thing is, with the 130gr bullets are sized .356.

Enterprise Arms frame/STI slide. Not sure on the weight of slide? Not excessive.

Yep, this weekend gun would not group and bullets would tumble. Gunsmith looked at it and notice the crack, at the ejection port. Just like the others slides that you see posted here on the forum. Major 9, 121 gr MG with 7.3 WAC. 8lb spring . I did have a 10 lb spring but the 8lb shot sooo much better. Oh well!! From what I have read here on the forum. If your shooting light bullets and running the spring under 10lbs, you will probably break something eventually. So, shooting heavier bullets is probably the answer to longevity, in an Open gun. At this point am not sure if I want to continue in Open. Maybe, shooting bullets in the 130 range might do well? thanks

jacketed, is the only to go.....

buy better bullets...

Sporky, try the springs in the 8lb range. But...for me, I have noticed depending on hearing protection, you could be "finching"? Try different hearing protection and you may will notice how the sound can be harsh or muffled, depending on what you choose. Hearing protection with open guns, is not something to take lightly. Where i practice, one berm is an enclosed area. The side baffles of the comp, do make for a sound wave against the berm and I do feel a vibration, in my ear canal, if I do not "double up" on hearing protection. As always, just a thought.

Weaver 1x3!

no mention on who makes the frame or magazines???

Using outside pins, really doesn't give the complete picture. Because the you are only using one side of the frame for the pin holes. The only way, is to install all the parts into the frame, after marking the sear face, dry fire a few times and remove the sear. How is it swiping? In regards to the hooks and sear face, the complete picture will be shown there. Now...there are many other items that influence the trigger job. But getting the correct sear angle to the hammer hooks, can be seen by doing what I have described above. Depending how it is swiping, you dress the sear face or the hooks to make equal contact. Mark the sear again, install all the parts and dry fire, remove and recheck. That's the short story. But in reality, it takes a lot time to do all this. Back and forth, back and forth. AND, if you take too much off the sear or hooks, you start to chase it and in the end you ruin something! Either the hammer or sear!!!! That's why it best it leave it, to someone who really knows what they doing!!! JMO, good luck

Am no expert but the first thing I would do....is mark the sear point with a blue sharpie and dry the gun a few times and see where how the hammer is swiping off the sear nose. Along with many other things to look for, this is the major part of the trigger job. How is the hammer swiping?? Is it on both hooks? Is it evenly swiping? Then I would look at what other interfere there is with the dico? Something is moving the pads of the disco away from the feet of the sear. Look at the position of the disco head in relation with the slide cutout as the slide is moving back? Use the sharpie and mark the cutout, rack the slide a few times and see how it swiping in the cutout and where in the cutout? Thats where I would start... BTW, removing ALL the pre travel, will make the hammer go to half cock. By doing so, you are pushing the trigger all the back into the disco and putting pressure on the disco, not allowing it to move up and down freely. Thus, the feet of the sear, do not catch on the disco pads because it is being held up by the pressure trigger bow. Good luck but problems like these are best solved but actually look at the parts.

what weight recoil spring?? what weight bullet? thanks

did not know EGlades was making a aluminum trigger? What size dot???

40...

hanexp, how did you get the DDpro to mount to the infinity mount?? isn't that mount only for the RTS2??? thanks

Hi-Power Jack, said it right!

RippSpeed, thats a cool looking blaster!!!!!

IF, I had to do it all over again...I would just shoot a G22 or 35. Desire and practice is what makes the difference. Since you already shoot a Glock, why not??? IMO