want2race

I modified my ICE magwell over two years ago with a large ball end mill. I didn't like how the meaty portion of my hand rode on top of the magwell either. Now, my palm rides right inside the cutout. It's a perfect fit and nearly acts like a hook. The Dawson is very, very close to what I did to mine. I used a larger tool so the radius is not as steep. It works very well if you don't the feeling of the magwell under your palm.

For single stack, I'd do the exact opposite, buy the smallest diameter bushing and cut the barrel accordingly. There is no minimum weight, but there is a maximaum. Since you can't lighten the slide, haveing a lighter barrel will help. I like them light. An EGW gunsmith fit bushing would work too. You can also order specific sizes from them as well. Cheaper than the Briley. Obviously these are just preferences. My bushing barrels average in the .578" OD range IIRC. I've got a Wilson drop-in right here that is .582 at the flare and .575 in the middle. The flare is from the muzzle, back .5".

The M&P I'm using developed the exact same issue. I redressed the hook of the extractor, then removed a little from the pad too. I basically tuned the hook the same as I would a 1911 extractor. I removed a little from the front bevel since it was very close, if not actually touching the bevel on the case. Left the edges of the hook nice and sharp. After the work, the M&P has since returned to 100%. I was getting 3 to 4 FTE per match and it was quite upsetting. If I remember right, it's a 5/64 roll pin to replace the straight pin.

There was a store in Elizabethtown, KY that was blowing out 40C's for $375 or so. I see used ones go for over $500 all the time which blows me away, you can find them new for $450 easily. I got mine from JetGuns during the S&W $50 rebate offer.

Or you could trigger pull test it like John Scouten and pull the trigger back a little, then place the trigger gauge bar at the very tip of the trigger. He used the trigger guard. The trigger gauge finger was placed between the trigger and the trigger guard, this way the guage was at the very bottom of the trigger which increases the leverage substantially, thus lowering your number, increasing the WOW factor at how low the trigger pull is on the guage. My jaw hit the floor when I saw him do that. I wasn't surprised his pull weight was very low considering. Testing my M&P the way he did and mine was 1.75#. Tesing it the correct way (in the middle of the trigger where your finger would be) and it's 2.25#.

206304. I went with the thumb safety model compact. Mainly because I shoot 1911/2011's and I didn't want to get lazy and forget about the safety. Plus, my carry guns aren't always in holsters. I don't rely on it, but the thumb safety physically blocks the sear from lowering and it simply cannot fire with the safety on. I would still carry an M&P without a thumb safety too but I like having it. There are other safeties on the guns but I just wanted the lever on it.

The pro has some trigger work done, the 9L has a slightly different slide profile. For competition, where you would have a trigger job done on it anyway, the 9L would be the one I would buy. I carry a 9C everyday. I forget it's there. I can't carry into work, I had to walk back out to the car to drop it off because I forgot I had it on. I carry in a MS watch six. Best IWB holster I've ever owned. It's for a G32 and fits the M&P compact perfectly. I can't recomend them enough for carry. For a lot of sit down time I use the short base pad, for normal daily activities, I swap for the finger extended base pad. I have loaded mags everywhere so I just change mags to change the carry profile.

Hopkins, Shaun A28551 SSP/MA 43.19 (11) 16.02 (6) 10.68 (5) 4.34 (0) 12.15 (0) Gave up rediculous points on stage 1. Just shot it poorly. This was my first attempt at the Postal, but I would like to try it again for sure.

I was 11b2V, spent 5 at 2/75. Great place to start out (any Ranger Batt that is). Don't worry about the running. They'll teach you how to run. You get used to it. I hated running, still do. But it was necessary. LOL. Jumping was fun. Well, exiting the aircraft was fun, standing waiting for the winds to miraculously drop below 15knots while wearing full kit wasn't so much fun but it too was necessary. You'll shoot plenty of ammo. Each Ranger battalion gets about as much ammo per year as the entire Marine Corps. SFAS will be cake after being in a Ranger battalion for a while, it was for me. Basically the same shhhtuff I had been doing for the previous 5 years. You'll need broken in feet for SFAS, i.e., feet that have seen MANY MANY miles of rucking before you go. Oh yeah, you'll need to have it in your heart to "want it". I saw so many guys that were pretty tough, loose the heart for it. Then they quit. Besides, then you'll have cool stories to tell for the rest of your life. I've peed on every drop zone I landed on. Foreign and domestic. Edited for hitman: When I went through it was Taco Bell or Doughnuts. "Whooooo's gonna quit for some hot fresh Doughnuts....?" I always laughed at that. Then one guy did.

'bout time. LOL. Looks good. I'm also in line...

I had the same thing, thought it was mag springs. I cleaned the tubes and followers and that fixed it for me. It usually one or the other (dirty or worn springs).

I think there is a BarSto option coming soon if you can hold out. Rumor has it....

The loops did look shorter than usual. It was fairly easy to rectify for a good trigger pull. Thanks for the support. Sounds like your trigger loop was either crushed down or you have a gun that's a bit off. Were you using a 45 model or a standard model (9,40,357)? If you had called us in the shop about that, I'd have sent you a 45 sear to give you enough over travel to make it work properly. Scott

Just dropping the parts in, the sear would not drop enough to release the striker. The lobe on the trigger bar isn't tall enough. Just opening it up causes other issues, like the trigger not stopping on the over-travel (inside trigger guard). Then there is the reset, although not related to Apex parts but I tweak in just enough tension for a solid reset feel. Too much causes trigger return issues with the lighter trigger spring. I love working on these though. I ordered a FRE too, but ended up just reshaping the stock one. Couldn't wait for the part to come in. No more FTE's.

I wanted to revisit this since my opinion has changed. I don't know if there has been a change in the sears since I first tested them but the complete kits I've worked with recently have been very good. Still takes some work, to get it right and to function but the parts are good. I haven't tried the RAM yet, I just tweak a little to get a positive reset feel. I will try one eventually. I did 3 last week and after I was done all three were just over 2lbs. I wouldn't call them drop in parts, but they are good parts for the job. Like EGW trigger parts. Good parts to do a good trigger job, just not drop in.

This a must attend. Now to pick a division...LOL

I don't count targets either for the purpose of when to reload. I plan my stage with the thought of "...this target gets one, then reload, re-engage with one.." I plan my reloads based on targets. I know which target is my last target engaged before I need to reload. If I have a make up shot I adjust on the fly, it usually means reloading before the one/reload/one target. You may also find people round dumping before this same target on a stage. I also look for areas where a RWR is advantagous.

To build on that post, it does appear to pull trigger to the rear but it's intent is to pull the cruciform (trigger bar) upward. There is an alternate form of spring (New York Trigger) that only pushes the trigger bar without any rear ward pull. This is used to achieve higher trigger pulls (8-12lbs accordingly).

You can fire the Glock without the trigger spring as long as you do a proper reset trigger pull. IOW, pull the trigger and hold it to the rear while it fires. It will continue to work. If you don't, the trigger will not reset without the spring. A stronger spring reduces trigger pull weight. Yes, aftermarket ones exist.

Back straps are replaceable, hence not a permanent mod. I've seen whole grips stippled for Production.

I too started off with a Glock. Then went Limited and SS exclusively (2011/1911) for 3 years. Bobby K let me borrow his 9Pro and figured I'd give Production a try again. The M&P is everything I like about Glocks, but nothing I hate about Glocks. Grip angle, Glock Knuckle, crap trigger etc. I don't mind working on my competition guns. I'm using the large back strap but I thinned it down on the sides and made the back flat. I only wanted to fill the web of my hand (under the beavertail area) and the large is the only one that does that. Indexes very very close to my 1911 based guns. Trigger actually breaks lighter than my 2011. It isn't perfect. My extractor went south last match but I have no idea how many rounds have been through it. Fortunately it's just as easy to work on.

I've too have noticed the slide moving as the firing pin drops. I look forward to the parts that Randy puts out. When I first got the 9Pro (borrowed), I tested it at 25yards. I don't know if it was a fluke, but I shot a 2" group off hand at 25 using Blazer Brass. Steel1212 was with me and let out a few expletives when he saw it. I think with the Melonite finish inside the bore, the more rounds down the tube the better it will get. For a new gun it may even be worth running a little bore paste down it to polish it up a little.

PGM34, that's great news! I checked the calc and it's not showing scores yet. Shot it today: Production: 4.82, down 2pts. 7.88HF I shot the left target, then the right, ended in the middle. I didn't want to lean around the barricade for the left target.

Wish those were available in +.5 Sounds interesting.

I've gone at least once every year since moving to KY. It's great. No really, it's freaking awesome. I'm prior .mil so the machine guns don't interest me as much as some of the other stuff. Still, awe inspiring to hear the line open up. Cut down, short barreled, .50 M2!! Rate of fire in the 600-700 range!! No flash hider too, that thing flicks out a nice 2 foot flame. The mini guns are cool if you've not experienced them first hand. 3000rpm, with and without tracers. Incindiery rounds on fridgerators and cars. Propane tanks with lit fuzes near by. ka-freakin-BOOOOOMM. The pole barn (flea market) is the biggest you're likely to see anywhere. Ammo used to found cheap, not so much anymore. They also have shooting competitions. Pistol, rifle, sub gun, shotgun. Most shot on seperate days. Sign up online to secure your spot. They usually have a live band playing in the evening before the night shoot. Food is onsight. Parking is in the mud, usually. Don't park on the road if you can avoid it and NEVER park with tires on the road side of the white line. Tow trucks are on stand by for this event. Plan to get there 3 hours before you want to be there. Traffic. They usually raffle a ride on a bird, with M60. Winner gets to shoot from the air. Open carry is fine, you'll zip tie your rig before you enter. Something to sell? Sling it and walk in with a sign on it.