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robzilla

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    Roberto Frade

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  1. Don't worry man. If you drop an apex competition kit in it you will have a better gun than the pro. You can put whatever sights you want on it. Is that what you run? If so, Do you have any reliability issues with the lighter springs? Every trigger pull makes the bullets go bang. I was having issues with extraction but that was because I hadn't changed the extractor spring in over 5K rounds. The apex kit made it way better than the pro trigger I had. The reset is very short and well defined. The break is very clean. The closest you can get to a 1911 trigger in a non 1911 gun. IMHO
  2. Dave, no need to excuse yourself. Gomer, I used to shoot Berry's 147s at 1.100 I just switched to Berry's 124 and I found that they group fairly well at 1.100 also. I also just got my first batch of 124 MG CMJs. I havn't had a chance to try these out yet.
  3. Don't worry man. If you drop an apex competition kit in it you will have a better gun than the pro. You can put whatever sights you want on it.
  4. Update: I put in a new regular power extractor spring with an apex extractor. I had to put in a little bevel on the bottom of the extractor. As I had mentioned in my last post I was having feeding issues. Now, if I let the slide drop under its normal spring tension the round seems to feed just fine. However, if I slowly hand cycle it, it sometimes hangs up. My OAL is 1.100. Is this too short? I havn't been able to get to the range to try live fire. Work and weather have prevented me from doing so.
  5. G-ManBart Do you know if the FO front sight on the M&P is also as problematic. Others that have done it, let us know how you got it out.
  6. Thanks for the info guys. Two more things: 1) Do you use a metal file or stone? I have some files and a block of fine stone. Which is better? 2) I see that the required front sight is the .305. Any issues with this being too tall? Thanks, Robert 1) Niether, I will give you my Free secret to fitting sights. I use a 12x12 sample piece of granite floor tile (usually available free from a local flooring supply company, and perfectly flat) with a 8" self adhesive 150 grit sanding disc adhered to it. I will set the sight on it and gently slide the sight back and forth a few times and test fit. Do this as many times as necessary till it goes into the dovetail 2/3. To insure that you are applying equal pressure to ensure an even amount of material is removed, occasionaly blacken the bottom with a sharpie to visually see that material is coming off evenly. Before you hammer it in gently break the sharp corners to prevent them from digging into the slides dovetail. Its so simple a caveman can do it. I find this mutch easier to control than holding a stone or a file. Sounds good. Thanks for the tip.
  7. Thanks for the info guys. Two more things: 1) Do you use a metal file or stone? I have some files and a block of fine stone. Which is better? 2) I see that the required front sight is the .305. Any issues with this being too tall? Thanks, Robert
  8. Is it usually required to file this area? I have been wanting to get adjustable rears for my M&P pro, but am afraid of having to fit it. How much know how is required to do this?
  9. You can get one here: http://www.gandrtactical.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=39526 If you get this, be sure that you have the gen 5 striker assembly, if not get that as well. A cheaper option for you might be looking into simply replacing the firing pin spring with an extra power one first: http://www.speedshooterspecialties.com/catalog/search.php?submit=submit&categories=Smith+%26+Wesson+M%26P+9L%2FPro&subcategories=Springs I do not know how much this would affect trigger pull. Give it a try and let us know.
  10. Waktasz: Your gun looks great. How did you do the polish job? Any problems with the slide being slippery? Also, what kind of sights are u running? Height of front sight, width, notch etc... Thanks, Robert
  11. Update: So, I fixed one problem and I am now having another. I put in the Apex extractor and a SSS spring. Every single round fired was ejected. Problem: some rounds are not feeding. Specifics: I am shooting my reloads which I have shot thousands of and never had any problems before. When I look at the situation it looks like the rim is getting snagged by the bottom of the extractor. When I remove the round you can see where the extractor cuts into the rim where it first makes contact. Just to see, I took out the Storm Lake barrel and put back the factory original and it stopped happening. I want to be able to use the Storm Lake barrel like before. Any ideas? Thanks, Robert
  12. Thats good to hear. I was hoping it wasn't something serious because I didn't want to have to send it in. Thanks for your time.
  13. Is it normal for it to look like this? I am not sure how good the quality of the picture will be so I will describe it as best that I can. There appears to be some metal that has worn away from the bottom part of the firing pin hole on the breech face. If this is not normal, what should I do? Thanks, Robert
  14. Memphis: Great job on the vid. I didn't have the confidence to go that far into the dissasembly until I saw your vid. DougCarden: I havn't shot factory ammo in over a year, I will give it a try. Great idea on the crimp. I hadn't thought of that and now that you say it, it makes sense. I measured crimp and I am between .376-.377. I measured WWB at .374-.375. Should I adjust down to WWB specs or should I go tighter? Also, if I go too tight on the crimp could it be possible that the round may get rammed in too far and the rim not catch on the edge of the chamber and instead make contact with the lands and grooves? G-ManBart: I was able to remove the extractor. It was very dirty in there. I cleaned it up and took off about .003. I went out and it is still happening. Round starts to come out but then I guess the extractor lets go and the slide goes all the way back and tries to ram another round in. I will order the spring and probably the extractor. I looked up fine stone in midway and brownells and got way too many choices. Theres india, arkansas and bunch of others. Which one gets it done? After trying with factory ammo and diff. barrel, I will mess with the extractor a bit more. I will first try the new spring on the old extractor, then sand down the pad some more, and if still a no go then I will try to work with the new one. So, which stone and any suggestions? Anyone: Could it be the scratch in the barrel. If it can help diagnose this prob let me know and I will try to get a picture of it. Also, should I try to correct the chamber issue? Would strom lake take the barrel and refinish the chamber or would I have to do it myself? Would smoothing out the chamber totally send accuracy out of whack or would it be negligible? One last thing, I keep hearing that polishing the chamber helps, but in thinking about this I can't help but think that after a few rounds the build up defeats the purpose of the smoothly polished chamber. Can someone help me make sense of this? I know its a loaded post, but I would like to thank anyone that can contribute a little piece of the puzzle. Thanks again, Robert
  15. Which gets the job done better? Also, which is easier to fit? What do you use to grind them down? Thanks in advance for your replies, Robert
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