want2race

Dan, I told HH6 that you would give her a call about my attendance to the match. I forgot to give you my app, but I'll get it in the mail.

It's not that the stages were hard, they could be shot numerous ways. What made the stages difficult was finding the FASTEST way to shoot them. Then trusting that YOUR way was the fast way even though you watch everyone else shoot it differently. I love breaking stages down, I had no shortage of that at this match. Sometimes it was a team effort! Great stages with many options. Really enjoyed them. I felt like a bull in a china shop at times, but man was it fun to push hard on these. Some of the stages let me stretch my legs. I think I finished no less than 3 stages with a leg in the air. This being my first big match shooting production I learned a few things. Minor scoring. 'Nough said. Thanks to the staff for a great event.

Ahem...1.75lbs but whose measuring.

The match HOA last year is shooting Production this year. Bring it.

I wouldn't mind if they were slightly oversized. Good results though. Glad to hear it.

I don't use ambi's either. I can engage the right side lever with my index knuckle. As for "riding the safety", my support hand nearly covers the left side lever and my firing hand thumb rides on the heel of my support hand. In other words, my grip is so high that the safety is burried. There is no way I can ride the safety with my thumb, my other hand is in the way. For gun games, an ambi is more of a liability (breakage). Safety can be disengaged with the strong hand before transition to weak hand.

I had a magazine take a walk on me. Now I know why....

Yep. There are different ways to acheive it. Pretravel is reduced by about 1/2. I use a plastic block in the trigger so I don't have to drill/tap or weld. Trigger bar sits just in front of the striker safety plunger. It's important that the plunger not be depressed at all when the trigger as it rest.

If you don't mind "where" the trigger breaks you can reduce the pretravel too.

Increase the pretravel spring tension. Strengthen your wrists. Your finger is bump firing it. Pull the trigger and hold it back until the gun settles from recoil, then release. Do this in practice for a while. If it stops doubling, when you KNOW you are pinning the trigger back when you fire it, that pretty much confirms the finger bump. It's possible to have the same result with an ultra light trigger pull and a heavy trigger, but it would show up with others shooting it too.

The twitch you are seeing may be the slide moving. The slide moves about .015" when the sear releases the striker. No matter how you pull the trigger, it moves. Maybe as the sear cams down it's pulling on the striker (like a Glock) which pulls the slide down. Then when the striker snaps foward the slide pops back up giving the impression of it moving forward. I don't notice it too much during dry fire though.

I'm shooting production. Waiting for USPSA update...

My buddies single stack was sticking open about .25" only from slide lock as well. His gunsmith suggested swapping to a new recoil spring, not heavier just NEW. He stated he had just changed it at the beginning of the year. After another failed slide lock load, he pulled the spring and replaced with a new one. The old spring was shorter than the new and may not have actually been replaced as he thought. Then it ran. .40s are the worst, followed by 9mm, to tune in a 1911. Mags, mags, mags. EGW raised mag catch, feedramp, chamber mouth and mags. When all else fails, seek out a professional.

That is one hell of a hate rant. I like it. Good point to. If opinion is given, state it as so.

4.2 of Clays should make major if that's what you're after. Use the 18's for that load.

Yeah, I noticed that too. Will also said he taught the gunsmith "everything he knows", "not everything I know". Nice. He is the only school trained one of the bunch. If you hire a gunsmith and you want him to clean toilets, that's fine. As long as cleaning the toilets pays the same as hacking on guns it doesn't matter. Still, that episode made Will really look like a jerk of a boss.

His tone is something lost when describing it here on the forum. Only the OP knows his tone and possible intent. It could have been a compliment, sure. It could also have been a rude comment. Maybe he was worried about being beaten by you and "gamed" you. A simple comment to completely derail your mental game. If so, it worked. I've seen it done, sometimes it's a just a simple ribbing, sometimes it's more severe.

Try Tony at Velocity Shooter, KY.

The USB is nearly mandatory to clean up the trigger pull. Swap for the USB spring that comes in the kit too. Swap the sear, but leave all other springs stock.

I can tell a huge difference in recoil between stock spring and an 11. I run an 11 in a Pro, matched to an Apex striker spring (-4 coils). Have to run both lighter springs. It's so flat with an 11. Have to keep it clean though.

RWS 124gr ammo. It's off the shelf ammo that feels like 128PF. Not a lead bullet either. If you can't find that, Ultramax lead ball is very very soft too. Then swap the recoil spring to a 13. Lighter spring makes it jump less. It will calm it down.

Yes, as a comedy it's much better.

Watching the first meeting with the "contractor" was like watching a bad spy movie. Funny, I didn't even think about their use of a birdcage instead of comp. I'm curious how the guy that looks like Seth Rogan still works there. Who is he related to? Probably a hell of nice guy but he failed at the simplest of builds. The "Leopard gun". His tools are right up my alley (hacksaw)...but dang..it was a simple task. The viewer count is up to over 21 million. I guess they are doing something right.

The reset can be fixed on the M&P. Either by the trigger bar, or the Apex RAM. Apex, SSS and now S&W all have replacement extractors that are to fix the extraction issues. I just gave the stock one a tune up. It's similar to a 1911 with extraction issues. Just needs a little love.

I've shot both in competition. Both have relatively light slides, both have aftermarket parts available. Both have spare parts available from manufacturer that are CHEAP! One is made in the USA, by a US company. The other is just assembled in the US. Both companies support shooting sports. Both guns are available in black, with durable finishes. Other than that, here's why I prefer the M&P: The Glock trigger will never be as good as an M&P, unless you spend the BIG bucks for a non-production legal trigger. For a hundred dollars in parts and an hour of time I can tune the M&P to be as good as the best 1911's out there. The backstrap. I use a large, but slimmed down the sides and ground the spine flat. It points like my single stack. It's still not as comfy as my 1911 to shoot, but it's as good as any plastic gun will get. It's just more comfortable to shoot. I think the M&P also looks better than the Glock, but that is just my opinion, as is the entire post I guess. Here's why I don't like Glocks: Since I can't grind on the frame and still be in compliance with the rules, it is terribly uncomfortable to shoot. It's called Glock Knuckle. The undercut at the back of the trigger guard is half the size it should be. It needs to extend forward further. The grip angle, although if you only shoot Glocks it's a moot point. I flip back forth from 2011, 1911 and production guns so the grip angle affects me some on index targets. I've owned Glocks off and on since 1990. As far as I'm concerned, the M&P is everything the Glock isn't. I have had to recut the stock extractor to fix the failure to extract issue I had 2 months ago. Smith now sells the guns with the upgraded extractor. Glock has been through at least 4 different version of extractors too. Accuracy on early guns was suspect, but the Pro that I'm shooting now groups extremely well and as good as any Glock I've ever shot.