want2race

I compared the Apex competition striker spring to the stock spring. Apex felt (subjective) like it was a slightly lighter weight spring, but it was a full 4 coils longer. Trigger pull was not effected either way when installing it. Clipping 4 coils to equal the length, dropped 1/4lb. No light strikes. I also compared the modified spring to a light Glock striker spring. That spring was WAY lighter and dropped the trigger pull another 1/2 lb. There have been issues with light strikes and the light Glock striker springs (in Glocks) so I never planned to use it, just to compare it. I can't get the same feel with the Apex sear that I can with a modified stock sear.

They do get props for standing behind their product.

Ditto, was planning to watch it tonight. Thanks for that. Complete disregard for ANYONE who might not have seen it yet.

They could have used a larger ball end mill. The bigger radius fits the heel of the hand. Nice to see good ideas don't go unnoticed. LOL This is what I've been running for a long time. I never liked feeling the mag well under my plam. It 'hooks' under your palm, not that it does anything toward recoil management it just feels better. I tried grip tape on the stock ICE and it was too grippy. Once I cut it I was hooked.

I like the cash payout idea. Don't have to be present for the awards table. Some matches it's definitely worth it to wait around though. When I raced motorcycles, they paid out cash for top finishers. Get a plaque, got a check. It may not have been much but it was nice. Our sport has divisions AND classes so it's a little more time consuming though. I like Bkeelers idea. Have an 'opt in' cash pot. Want to shoot for fun and test your skill? Don't opt in. May add to the already difficult task of running a major match though. I'd pitch in $20 for the chance to win back my entry fee.

Just looked at the 9Pro. The dust cover does flex. If you were to really wrench down on the bench rest, you could very well get the dust cover to move the slide. Shooting 1911's I always seem to get the best groups the tighter I hold it and the firmer I press it down into the rest. I've also wondered if a stronger recoil spring would effect accuracy (for the better).

Not sure if you can run a fluted barrel in IDPA. The flutes on a bushing barrel would be pretty shallow, unless you're having a 9mm built. Then there is more meat. Price per gram is pretty high on that one. Tritop slide, ball cut scallops and deep cut cocking serrations would save a lot more weight. Look out though, somebody will think you are trying to game the rules...

I'll have to look at the M&P again, but could the dust cover be contacting the slide with enough downward pressure? Glocks can do this. If that's the case, It's similar to resting a rifle barrel instead of FF HG on a rest. Right? I haven't grouped mine off a rest. Standing freestyle yes, sandbag no. My groups are similar to your results while resting your wrists and not the gun.

As pretty as Schuemann's are, they still need some work. Yes, the top of the feed ramp, entrance to the chamber will need to be smoothed over. Not the ramp, as that has a pretty trick convexed shape to it, just the top to help the round cam over a little easier. The chambers are "finished" but when you trim the hood, you need to ream the chamber accordingly. They also break over headspace rim (end of chamber beginning of throat) which is really cool but when re-reaming it that pretty much goes away.

Rub a little blue sharpie on the outside of the mags, toward the top where you think they are sticking. I bet they are rubbing at the front of the mag, just forward of where the feed lips are bent over. Plastic mallet time. Then send them back after the match. I even bring my hammer to matches with me....

HE HE, you wrote "BFF". LOL. Funny post. True, AND funny. I like the show. It is what it is. I can watch a shooting show with my wife and 4 year old. She doesn't watch "Wednesday night at the range" because it's boring to non gun people. The last episode, when they switched to green shirts, had some really difficult tasks. Plus it was the first physical event since the first episode. Add more of that. Make them run!

...and one for the Ranger in the sky.

I use the ammo as a gauge, but you can certainly use calipers to compare the front to the rear. Before taking the mallet to them, defenitely check your mag tunnel. Carbon builds up pretty bad in there. Even to as low as half way down. Also take the mag catch out and test insert all your mags to see exactly where they are rubbing. If they aren't rubbing with the mag catch out, that's another issue. If they are rubbing, it's usually the area forward of the actual feed lips. The straight wall area. I need to take pictures of this stuff. It's far easier than describing it.

The feed lips open up. I made a tool that I insert where the top round sits, then...big mallet. The tool is there so I don't overdo it. My mags got to the point that the new spring/follower combo I installed came out the top. Make sure the mag tunnel (frame) is clean.

I had 'dribbling brass' as well. For the ejection issue I first made sure I had good spring tension and a clean extractor. It was a little gummy but nothing like what a Glock packs under it's extractor. I tried to punch out the pin but got a really good TING, indicating it wasn't going anywhere without a lot of force. Left it in place and wedged a .40 case in to open the extractor enough to get in there. It's cleaner than it was. I'm not taking the extractor out unless it's to replace it. I pulled the striker out and ran some ammo through it by hand. Still didn't eject very positively. As soon as it starts to kick out it pops off early. Now for the ejector tweak. I looked down the frame (slide off, viewed from the rear) and saw that the ejector was pointing very slightly away from the centerline. I took it out, put it in the vice and tapped it a bit with my ball/peen. Very scientific. I was able to move the tip of the ejector closer to the centerline, which would hit the case closer to the bottom, instead of the side. It didn't take much. If you try it, go easy. What a difference. The brass to spits 2 feet out, just cycling it by hand. I'll clean the brass line off the slide and see if it reappears when I fire some ammo through it. Word of caution, if you over do the ejector tweak the slide may not go back on. If this happens you tweaked the ejector WAY too much. I only moved the tip about .030" in-board.

WOW! First I've ever heard of this. I've seen some Dawson sights get down right abused during installation and they hold up well. I would want to take a look at the dovetail.

Or L10; or Limited. Sucks though.

Ah yes, getting rid of the finger grooves does go along way to helping to feel.

Yours still has the ridiculously small (stock) undercut that causes Glock Knuckle. The undercut needs to extend forward twice as far as the stock configuration. Some undercut jobs on 2011 are victim to the same problem, the undercut isn't big enough. Not the height for a high grip, but the undercut needs to extend forward so the entire middle knuckle fits into it. The undercut (and inability to fix it under production rules) is a HUGE reason I don't own them any more. Bring on the M&P!!

LOL! That's funny. I've used a jewelers file on my tooth once, so why not Dremel a finger.

I've Borrowed Bobby's 9Pro and after shooting one match started to tinker. It's a disease and yes, I need a 12 step program. It had the stock striker spring (from what I can tell) and an 11# recoil spring. Function was fine, felt good. If a 9# was available I'd try it. They don't make one. The brass is ejecting about 1.5-2 feet. A 9 wouldn't work with the stock striker spring, and certainly wouldn't work in a Glock. However.... I've since received an Apex spring kit and sear. I'll save my opinion on the sear for another thread. The "reduced" power striker spring was slightly lighter that stock, but 4 coils longer. Trigger pull measured exactly the same with both springs. The Apex spring was still WAY stronger than the reduced power Glock striker spring I have. I cut 3 coils off the Apex spring (now same length as the stock one) and the 11# recoil spring holds the slide in lock up a bit better. It may be an option if you like the way the gun feels with the 11 but want a little more holding force to keep it locked up.

I shot a 3 day Glock course, had no choice but to shoot Glocks. I use foam type band-aids. I wrap two around my middle finger to pad the knuckle. Other shooters mocked me on day one. By the end of day two, I had run out of band-aids from giving them out. For my duty gun, I did a similar mod as above. Makes a world of difference.

Brownells. Barrel locking lug file. There is only one type. Get a plastic handle for it too. #2 Pillar file. I use my dremel to smooth out the safe edge. Lug file (not cheap) 080-751-000 May be able to use something else but it's aggressive enough and the teeth are cut right up to the tip for tight work. Great for thinning the lug area of the grip. The square shape and opposing safe sides are important. #2 Pillar, 6" 191-399-110

I didn't think it was too bad, then again I cut down a 5" STI Tactical to a 4.20" Carry gun with a hacksaw and files (see avatar).

I used a Barrel locking lug file and a 6" pillar file (it's fine cut). The locking lug file is very usefull since it is a small square file with two safe sides. I could get into the areas I need to quite easily. The pillar file is my favorite file. It's wide enough to give me a nice flat cut. I used it to lower the shelf (area directly above trigger guard). I didn't stop fitting it until the grip slid on the frame and the bushing holes lined up without force. The "ears" (area near top grip bushing hole) must NOT flex outward when sliding it on the frame. I did it in one sitting. Oh, also used a blue sharpie. That way I could track where I needed to remove metal. Initially my grip wouldn't even start on the frame. I would definitely do it again.