dabeaven

I will take it outside in the sunshine and post pictures tomorrow if everything works...you guys know how that is. Anyway, I talked with a Dillon Rep. the other day and he confirmed that these were the first 1050's produced and that they were considered excellent presses. Other than the nickel finish it looks and fits all RL1050 parts that I have tried so far. Heck, the base measurements that I have taken are right on with the S1050. I have gotten it adjusted and replaced some primer feed parts and it cycles more smoothly than my RL or Super 1050. Don Pictures posted tomorrow! Hopefully?

I will take it outside in the sunshine and post pictures tomorrow if everything works...you guys know how that is. Anyway, I talked with a Dillon Rep. the other day and he confirmed that these were the first 1050's produced and that they were considered excellent presses. Other than the nickel finish it looks and fits all RL1050 parts that I have tried so far. Heck, the base measurements that I have taken are right on with the S1050. I have gotten it adjusted and replaced some primer feed parts and it cycles more smoothly than my RL or Super 1050. Don Pictures posted tomorrow! Hopefully?

I also use a Rock Chucker that I bought in the early 70's. The too are a great machine and would probably be the best to squeeze out the lats 1/8 inch of accuracy. But, I am wanting to experiment with the progressives to compare the results; actually, I enjoy shooting and want the volume provided by these machines. I must say, thus far, I am really pleased with the results of the Dillon progressives; the accuracy of the powder and case dimensions are excellent (surprising consistent). I own two RL1050's and an S1050, and I am still in the process of tuning the last RL1050, that one, is an early production nickle plated machine; it currently is the most impressive of the lot. I cycling seems quite a bit smoother on the nickel plated machine than either of the other 1050's that are ductile iron. I also have an RL550 on the bench with a very low round count (less than 2000) if anyone is interested. That being said, I will keep the 30+ year old rock chucker! After all, there are some things that are never outdated; does anyone own a 1964 Corvette split window coop that they want to sell? Don

I ran across a nickel plated RL1050 that looks and cycles like it is brand new. I would like to know when these were built, what are they currently selling for, and if parts from the RL1050 interchangeable with the S1050 and vice a versa. Brian shipped one of the Super's to me about 6 months ago. I do know that the cycle length is longer on the Super but are the tool-heads, primer system, etc interchangeable between the two machines. Also, have any of you seen or a nickel plated press such as the one I have described;if so how does the perform relative to the current production S1050? I actually like the looks, as it is rust resistant and appears to have a stainless tool head on it; there is not a blemish on it I was quite surprised when I found it as I never knew they made that type of press. Thanks, Don

I have returned to this post several times and I want to thank everyone for their posts. I have not loaded much brass on the Dillon 1050, previously and still do use a Rock-Chucker, but I like the speed and accuracy of the Dillon S1050. I have recently joined a sportsman/shooting club and look forward to experimenting with the loads/accuracy. I especially enjoy to 556 and 308 shooting around 300 to 500 yards. Hopefully, I will learn to enjoy the 1,000 range as well with the 308. The information and post from all are appreciated. Thanks, Don

I recently purchased an RL1050 on Craigs List and was surprised to find that it was nickel plated. Can anyone tell me the approximate time of manufacture and if there are compatibility issues with parts exchanged on the Super1050 or cast iron finished RL1050. I do know kthe the longer capacity requires different base and camming parts. The press is in amazing condition and I think the tool-head may be stainless as there are no signs of discoloration w/age or rust present. The machine actually looks unused, this may be because of the durable finishes applied to the machine. Thanks, Don

Thanks all, the lanolin and alcohol was a great suggestion. My son was over this afternoon and his wife cranked out about 500 223 rounds in abut 30 minutes. She is the anal type a Doctor who likes repetitive things. I may not need a drive motor for the press after all. Things are looking good from where I am. Thanks to all who responded. Don

Thanks to all who responded, and I do think the initial problem is solved. As stated previously, loading 308 is moving into another realm for me, I have followed the knowledgeable advice of those who responded and I am content with the current results. As and additional question, when mixing 91% alcohol with lanolin my liquid separates when cool. I can resolve the issue by placing in warm water and shaking prior to application. Is there an additive to keep the lanolin in solution that I am missing. I do know the 9% water is detrimental but that was the highest alcohol content that I could find. Thanks, Don

After mixing lanolin and alcohol I sprayed the cases and let them dry. After that I loaded 50 rounds and the pressure to cycle the press was greatly diminished. It appears the lubricant I was using was not acceptable and I thank all who responded to the post. It is great to have a community of knowledgeable people to bounce questions off of. Hopefully, somewhere in the future I can contribute to that knowledge base. Don

OK, The brass has been cleaned and I mixed 2 oz of pure lanolin with 16 oz of 91% isopropyl alcohol. The cases have been sprayed (waited 5 min) rolled (waited 5 min)and I hand feed a couple into the de-prime/size station. Again, the pressure to cycle the press seems excessive; however both looked ok, they came out of the die and rotated to the swage station. I have only loaded pistol and 223 in the past and the effort required to cycle 308 may be normal. How much pressure is to be expected with 308 Lake City Match brass loading during the first reload cycle? I might be worrying about something that is normal. Thanks, Don

I have started loading 308 Lake City Match on my S 1050 and it appears to me that too much pressure is required to de-prime and size. Each pull down of the handle seems really excessive to me and raising also has undue friction. I have lubed the cases with silicone and carefully lubricated the case necks. Can someone tell me what is going on and what I might do to lessen the stress on the machine, and me. I just really doesn't feel right and I stopped after three rounds to seek information. Thanks in advance for you input. Don

I have gone through my first 100 rounds of Lapua brass and Sierra MatchKing 168 HPBT. Now I am interested in neck sizing only; the press is an S 1050 and the current dies are RCBS. Since these rounds have fire-formed to my Steyer SPG I would like to load the second round by neck sizing only. What is the best method of accomplishing this, and what additional equipment, if any is necessary? Thanks, Don