Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Wild Gene

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Wild Gene

  • Birthday December 13

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Touchet, WA
  • Interests
    Shooting, Hunting, Fishing, spending time with our son on quads at our Mountain pasture
  • Real Name
    Gene Curcio

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Wild Gene's Achievements

Finally read the FAQs

Finally read the FAQs (3/11)

  1. That APPEARS to be a mid rib style gun. It should be fine, and actually can help on trap style targets. I had a mid ribbed gun and have friends that shoot them very effectively on the Sporting range. The trend among the Master Class shooters is Flat rib, although there are still some using the mid height rib. The trend among Master class shooters is also straight (yet sloped) stock or Monte Carlo. These are not to be confused with a parallel comb. The sloped comb allows for the amount of flesh contacting the stock. In a shot fairly level the cheek contacts the comb slightly less than halfway from nose to heel. Incline the gun up and there is substantially less flesh under the zygomatic arch. The higher dimensions of the nose keep your eye in the same orientation to the rib. On a target presented well below your feet the cheek hits the stock substantially farther back toward the heel. Much more flesh between the center of your eye and the rib. The lower dimension makes allowance for this and keeps your eye at the same height to the rib. There's a reason that trap and skeet guns do well with parallel combs...the angle of the barrels are barely elevated. Sporting guns have to cope with a much wider variety of angles presented. (I believe this is paraphrased from a discussion between Andy Duffy, Anthony Matarese and Zach Kienbaum.) To address the statement about looking at the beads. Basically the beads are there to check your mount. You should be aware of where the barrel is in relation to the bird, but if you look at the bead, you're generally going to stop your barrel and miss behind the bird. Some of the best Sporting Clays shooters I know have a mount that is so refined, they have actually removed the mid bead and used it to replace the front bead. Good shooting and again, it won't be your last sporting shotgun. wg
  2. I have a 6", 40S&W. Probably one of the last ones out of his shop when he was going hot and heavy. Super nice gun. I really need to sell mine as I am no longer shooting competitive pistol stuff. I could spend the money on a new shotgun! Anyway, they are a great pistol and you should have no regrets for picking it up. Several top shooters used them both here in the US and in Europe. Enjoy it! wg
  3. The 6" guns are easier on 50 year old eyes. I can clearly focus on my front sight quicker and easier with a 6" gun than a 5" gun. That said, I have a 6" Millennium Custom that just sits in the safe because I am no longer shooting competitively. Actually, I really just need to sell it.
  4. I think the best way to go into this would be with the expectation that what ever your first gun is, it will not be your last. I have had a Ruger, Beretta's, CG's. I have shot Blaser's, Krieghoff's, Brownings, Rizzini's and several others. They are all great shotguns. Every time I thought I was where I wanted to be, something else popped up. Had I known what I know then that I know now, it would have saved me a ton, but the trip has been fun. I like to see who is selling a brand, who the stocking dealers are. Elite Shotguns is a stocking Rizzini dealer, very reputable, that tells me Rizzini is a good brand. So, if I were to suggest anything for a sporting shotgun, get one that you like the feel of, get one that is a "Sporting" model, has an adjustable comb (monte carlo is fine, but not parallel), that has choke tubes, that has a flat or medium height rib (I prefer flat), and get 32" barrels. If you like the way it feels, don't be afraid. Get lessons with an NSCA certified coach, they can help you determine if your gun really fits you as well as you think it does. They can also help start you off right. Buy ammo by the flat anytime possible (8's and/or 7.5's, 1oz (1200-1300fps) or 1-1/8oz. (1200-1250fps) and have fun! Didn't really answer your question even slightly, did I... haha Have fun and good shooting. wg
  5. Howdy, just an FYI, from the Hornady Tech line. Not all match brass is marked as such anymore. wg ----------------- Mr. Wild Gene, Until last year we always marked our Match brass with the word Match on the base of the bullet. Due to the demand for products, in the last three years, we stopped marking the word Match on the base of the case because the Match and “other” brass is the same. Match brass will have the brown look to the case in the top 1/3 and this if from the final annealing, all brass has this but we was the “non-Match” brass so it does not show. If you’d like to visit with us further please call our Tech Dept. 1-800-338-3220. Thanks, -----------------
  6. I wonder who makes the barrels for the Seekins SP10 or the PWS rifles? They both put out an awesome rifle and if the barrels are made in house, you could keep your money somewhat local, in the state anyway (Boise or Lewiston). wg
  7. Graham, the best estimate I could come up with off hand for a 45-70 firing a 520 grain bullet with an estimated BC of .25 and a muzzle velocity of 1600fps would be about 120' of drop (240 MOA) at 1,000 yards! I have no idea exactly, and can't find my note book, but I seem to remember something around that number as an estimate, but honestly I can't tell you because I don't know how to do the conversion when my sight reads inches, not MIL's or MOA. I know the sight was almost at the top of it's 289 MOA of elevation adjustment range (book says 289 MOA, but again, not sure how to convert between the numbers on the sight verses just dialing MOA). My sight is a #103 Long Range Buffalo from Montana Vintage Arms. It rests on the back of a Shiloh Sharps 1874 #1 Sporter with a few upgrades. Anyway, sorry to get off the topic of how I level my scope.
  8. These two points are key. You would have to shoot with the same cant on your rifle every time, unfortunately, courses of fire will often require shooting strong and weak sided. PRS matches are not often shot on level terrain. I'm not trying to put you down. I am just adding my personal observations from practicing shooting from compromised positions, at various angles and distances. Take care, Gene
  9. Graham, I agree. If your reticle is not perpendicular to the bore, then holdovers/unders will absolutely be left or right of center as you dial elevation adjustments. I really discovered this for myself shooting Long range black powder with a shiloh sharps, MVA soule sight, and great big 520 grain lead bullets. I had to use bits of aluminum to make sure that my tang sight was perpendicular to the bore axis or else I had a heck of a time sighting in my rifle. It would shoot left up to 100 yards, dead on at 100 and then move right after. The higher I had to dial in, the more it shot right. That meant the sight was canted to the right. Granted, the sight was mounted below the bore axis, so it could have been more pronounced, in both directions. It may not make much difference on a scoped hunting rifle when the line of sight is a little over an inch over the bore axis, but with a 34mm tube and 4.5-27x56 scope the is 2" above the bore axis, combined with a sight in distance of 100 yards and shooting out to 1,000 yards or more, you will notice it. Out here, there is one shoot that has targets out like 1,400 yards, and the bullet path is off a big flat, then over water then up to a cliff face, all at the bend of a river, so you have up draft, cross wind then another updraft all messing with your bullet on a IPSC size steel plate. The JC Steel Challenge, look it up, there are some great videos. wg
  10. I've never even thought about the feeler gauges. I had to read it a couple times, then think about it before it clicked. It is a great idea, as long as there is a rail on the rifle and the rail is level. wg
  11. Probably the same way you are doing it. Put your gun in a gun vice, level the action, then make sure the scope is sitting level (put a level on the scope turret). Make sure you keep your level oriented the same because your level may not be level. If you are using two levels, make sure they both show the same thing when they are both sitting on the same surface. Tighten it up evenly, check it with your eye and confirm on the range. Keep in mind a lot of guys and several manufacturers are running 20 MOA rails, so don't get discouraged your scope doesn't seem level with the action along the bore axis. It shouldn't be. I've had guys that have been shooting a lot longer than I have get hung up on that point. wg
  12. I disagree. It will change elevation adjustments above and below sight in point of impact moving POI left or right.
  13. Thanks for the great review. SCAR, remember, the Vortex is around a pound heavier than the Bushnell. The best thing about the big knobs, are the big numbers! I don't need cheaters to see the numbers on my Bushnell, and I'm guessing you wouldn't on the Razor II. The locking turrets on both the Vortex and Bushnell is a great option. I would really like to see the Bushnell and Vortex side by side, in a similar review. The reviews on this page are always very honest, not a "paid for infomercial". WG
  14. I noticed my stock wanted to come loose too. I am wondering if this is why there have been problems with the link thingy? Anyone try some blue Loctite, nylon lock nut or a lock washer? Other than that, all I've been told you really should do is replace the extractor, cam pin and hammer. WG
  15. Why do I need more than one gun? Why do you need more than one golf club?

  • Create New...