practical_man

Don’t use a punch. They’re held in by the spring for the slide release. Wiggle the slide release while you push on the pin with a 3/16th inch diameter punch. Pin should come out easily.

Squirrel I never had any trouble with 4895 or 748 with mid weight cast bullets (120-160 grain). Like everything else, I stay in the safe zone and work for accuracy rather than velocity.

I use 4227 in 35 Remington with good results. Have used 4895 and Win 748 in 30-30 back before I “loaned” my 30-30 to a relative.

231/HP-38 has worked great for me. 3.1 grains under a HBWC is a great mid range load.

OP Your Dillon will size and decap in one step. That’s a function of the die rather than the machine. Other dies drop powder, check powder, seat bullet and crimp. They’re very versatile machines depending on how you set them up. bottle neck cartridges need to be trimmed occasionally. Maybe not every loading, but once in a while. It’s important to measure and stay within case length limits so you don’t run into pressure spikes. Rifle dies vary by how much they stretch the case during sizing. I like the RCBS X die for blasting ammo. For precision loads I prefer to use mandrel tools. I have a dedicated single stage press for sizing rifle brass. Just makes things easier. Some guys I know have Redding turret presses for the purpose. I envy their wisdom because it’s a great option if you load multiple calibers. Trimming rifle cases is ass pain any way you slice it. Get a powered trimmer up front. Giraud is the best I’ve used but I don’t own one. I have the Little Crow Gun Works trimmer that you run with a power drill. It works well enough for me at an inexpensive price point. Not nearly as nice as a Giraud tho. you will want to debur case mouths after trimming and maybe chamfer them depending on the bullet you use. Get the right tools for the job. A Sinclair reloading catalog will give you a lot of good choices. if you don’t already own a couple of good loading manuals for rifle, please get one or two and read them from front to back. Not being insulting. The books are a wealth of knowledge. I’ve been loading for over 30 years and I still refer to the books now and then. Nosler, Sierra, Hornady, and most other major bullet makers have great books at affordable prices. Much less than a box of primers at today’s prices. be safe. Enjoy

870 is a great starter. I used my duck gun to start out (an 11-87). Bought a couple choke tubes and some neoprene foam to raise the comb a bit. Worked just fine. That 11-87 has been passed on to a younger brother to shoot ducks and trap. He’s getting good service out of it. Now I just use my 870 express for hunting and the monthly shuck and chuck pump gun fun shoot. For chokes you don’t need a bunch. The 870 comes with modified. I would get a Skeet choke for skeet and light mod or IC for other clays games. You really don’t need full choke very often on the clay fields. I rarely use anything except skeet or light mod. I like Carlsons extended chokes. They pattern well and hold up just fine. Extended chokes are just easier to change and make sure they’re seated snugly. A little grease on the threads now and then makes life easier. you might want a seperate range bag for the shotgun. Something that will hold 4-ish boxes of shells, a couple chokes, a bore snake and your shell bag. Doesn’t have to be fancy at all. A lot of guys (including me) just use one of those 2-1/2 gallon buckets from the home improvement stores. The plastic kitty litter buckets are about perfect if you know someone who keeps a cat. You’ll see all manner of things on the fields, from Gucci to the Dollar store.

Time and expense are relative, like action pistol. When I first started I would shoot 2-3 rounds once or twice a week. Not terribly expensive for time, targets, or shells. When I got serious about skeet I would practice 3x weekly and shoot weekend tourneys or with a coach. Much more expensive. the best investment I made in shotgunning was paying for lessons and coaching. It really speeds the learning process along. that should probably talk you out of it, unless you like hanging around with shooters and enjoying the friendly ribbing you’ll inevitably be involved with.

Stafford As noted, try before you buy. Most guys at any decent club will be more than happy to lend you a gun and shells to try out. They’ll spend the next hour telling you the virtues of their choice and why you would be foolish to use another brand or model. I got bit by the clays bug about 30 years ago and spent a lot of money chasing the perfect gun set up. Now I know better. Skeet guns are different than trap guns. You can use a skeet gun for trap but not the other way around. Trap guns shoot high. First decide what action you want. I have successfully used pump, semi auto, and over under. I sold off the semi auto because I hate picking up hulls from the mud or snow. If that doesn’t bother you, then an auto shoots very soft. I liked the Beretta A300, except for the whole hull shucking bit. It’s a good shotgun. The Benelli Super Black Eagle is also very popular around here with skeet and 5 stand shooters. my pump gun is a plain Jane 870 express. It breaks everything if I do my part and I don’t mind using it in the field. Good all around gun. So is the Browning BPS. To get started all you really need is a generic shell pouch, and empty hull pouch, a gun, and hearing protection. Plugs work better for me than muffs. Nylon bags hold up better than leather. Most club pro shops will have entry level accessories for sale. if you think you’ll stay with it, then an over-under is probably where you will end up because that allows you to use sub gauge tubes to shoot the same gun in all 4 gauges at registered matches. 410 surely separates the men from the boys. 20 gauge tubes are fun too. I like to shoot 3/4 ounce 20 gauge loads for practice though my 12 gauge Citori. the Citori is a good entry level gun and that’s the one I kept. Had a Beretta for a while but traded it off. Just didn’t shoot it as well as the Browning. Try lots of guns before you spend your money. Krieghoff, etc are beyond my means but they sure are nice guns. stay away from the rebranded budget Turkish guns, like the CZ, Mossberg, ATI, etc. The metallurgy in those guns isn’t up to the demands of competition shooting. I know from hard experience that you will wear one out quickly. hope this helps -John

Only you can judge acceptability. a partially obscured view through the dot doesn’t bother me at all. you can try moving the dot rearward of the ejection port to see if that reduces the impact on your perception.

I’ve had talon grip on my EDC G17 for over a year. No signs of delamination yet. I carry AIWB daily. it does absorb some odor. Soap and water takes care of that easily enough I was skeptical about talon grips being better than skateboard tape. It is better.

I’m not a fan of aluma Hyde. It covers great, but common cleaning solvents infiltrate and peel it right off. a bake on finish is more durable in my experience

+1. I have molded plugs. They’re ok for shotgun sports. They suck for indoors or shooting anything with an effective comp. Had a set of Peltors on deployment. Quite good. Now I have Howard Leight, which are bigger and more effective than the Peltors. Would like to try ProEars Gold someday.

TR bullet profile won’t make much difference at 30 feet. At 50 yards it starts to matter. Any bullet from 125 to 160 can be made to work Well in 38 special. I’ve done those. Some say you can go down to 100 grain bullets and get good results. I haven’t tried. 38 Special is very forgiving on OAL. Just crimp in the crimp groove and make sure it fits in the cylinder (bullets under 160 grains are unlikely to be too long). Don’t worry. Just pick a load below max and see how it works in your gun. Nothing wrong with starting at minimum and going up either. 2.7 titegroup Under a 148 grain bullets is a pretty decent 25 yard load in my 4 inch revolvers. So is 2.8 grains Bullseye and 3.2 grains of Win 231. going lighter with fast powders can result in a bullet stuck in the barrel. That’s not a problem as long as you stop shooting and drive that bullet out with a dowel. Easy as pie and does no harm. Most handloders encounter this problem now and then. Revolver crimp should be a firm roll crimp to prevent bullet pull. That’s unlikely to be a problem for light target loads so don’t worry. Just a light roll crimp will straighten the case and hold the bullet just fine. load up a few using the ladder method (0.2 grain changes in charge weight up or down). Test to see which gives you the accuracy you like. Then make a bunch. It’s easy to get intimidated into inertia. Don’t let that stop you. Just follow safe and known load data, keep good notes, and follow your process. You’ll be fine. 38 special is a great cartridge to master the fundamentals of hand loading and practice marksmanship!

Smitty titegroup data is here http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/pistol better yet is to buy a good reloading manual that shows information about bearing length, etc. You’re safe using data for a DEWC Of the same material in your case because the bearing surface of your SWC will be shorter. Less resistance = higher velocity. for titegroup 2.7 gr is the starting load for 148 DEWC. 3.2 is starting load for 158 gr LSWC. Pick something in between and see how it works. 2.8 grains of titegroup with a HBWC has worked for me. I no longer use titegroup in revolvers because it burns so hot. HP-38 gives better service for most of my Revolver use cases. ETA. I really prefer the full wadcutter bullet for small revolvers. It is accurate at moderate velocities and cuts a full caliber hole. Easier to score or targets and kills vermin in and around the barns immediately

How do they shoot with factory ammo using a similar bullet weight?

Farmer i wear suspenders every day. I’ve tried about every type available including the Perry Style. I like the trucker style made by hold up suspender company. They have a metal pin inside the clip that holds your pants up. These type do NOT wear holes in my pants like the clip on type. If holding up your pants while wearing a gun belt or tool belt, these will probably work for you. They do for me. they come in a variety of colors. Obligatory link below. I have no financial connection to this company beyond being a satisfied customer. -John https://www.holdupsuspenders.com/products/copy-of-dark-denim-trucker-style-2-wide-hipclip-suspenders-with-patented-no-slip-clips

This will do it mechanically https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/patches-mops/lead-remover/lewis-lead-remover-prod21587.aspx there are several home brew alternatives to the Lewis lead remover. IMO, the genuine article and soft brass screens is cheap enough compared to the cost of damaging a barrel.

I have a 550 and a Square Deal. Both are good machines. I prefer the 550 and manual index over the auto index of the SDB. Personal preference. I would offer that a good light on your reloading station is more important than a powder check station. Something to consider. I had a Lee turret Press and gave it away. Still have a couple of RCBS single stage presses I picked up along the way. Whether you choose a 550 or 750 you will be much happier with those than Lee

Threaded holes work great for me. I can drill and tap a rail section anywhere I want it. mLok and KeyMod are great if you’re constantly changing accessory configuration

Case wall thickness and diameter of expander ball are the likely culprits. Sorting by headstamp is my solution. I also quit using Remington brass except for mid range wadcutter target loads. Have you shot some to see if you’re actually getting recoil induced bullet pull?

krylon in the color of your choice

and what is that quiet compressor? i have a small Senco that I use with trim nailers. It’s a cold blooded and loud beast but otherwise ok. Looking for something quieter that doesn’t require half a dozen circuit resets in cold weather. Ideally it would run a framing nailer too, but trim nailer is good enough. noise with framing isn’t as bad since it doesn’t echo in yet to be built walls

Ask your doctor or PT A recent accident tore supraspinatus, long bicep, and several tendons in shoulder as well as humerus fracture. Painful. Slow recovery. I cannot yet tolerate recoil or satisfactorily manipulate a pistol. Doc says eventually it will get better as I recruit auxiliary muscles to do the job of damaged ones. Repair surgery might or might not help. I’m deferring surgery for now. To make things easier on my doc we talk in terms of ability to do construction work: holding a nail gun overhead, lifting in the wind, etc. Some docs can be squeamish about guns.

Thanks

2As What are some preferred Athlon vendors? thanks -John