TRSmith

I have a Lee Precision hand primer tool, and sometimes it pushes the primer in sideways or flipped over. Is it dangerous to reuse a slightly deformed primer after I free it from the brass? Could the gun explode or something if the primer isn't perfect?

If anyone is looking for some nice, Hi-Tek coated bullets at a reasonable price, check out Hoosier Bullets and Training. 92% Lead, 6% Antimony, 2% Tin and BHN 16. I just got some 38s and 9mm, and I also got some 9mm several weeks ago. They seem to try to keep making stock.

YIKES! I never thought too small of a charge could also damage the gun. What about the load with the magnum primers? I've been advised to go a couple of tenths lower in powder because of their extra kaboom...would 2.9 of the Titegroup+magnum primer be close to the 3.1 minimum Hodgdon/RimRock info?

Sorry for being such a novice/pest, but I am still looking to create a 38 special (snubby), "mouse-fart" TITEGROUP load for some relaxed practice at a 30 foot target. I was told by someone at RimRock not to go below 3.1 grains for the 148 SWCs I bought from them. Well, I started testing at 3.0, as I only have Federal magnum primers, and today I was down to 2.6 grains. Even the 2.6s seem to have a fair amount of kick to them, and I am befuddled. How low might I go and still stay semi-accurate at 30 feet? Please advise...

Does anyone know if Titegroup or Accurate #2 (powders I already have) are OK to use with Hi-Tek coated bullets for 9mm target practice under a mild load? Something at Hoosier Bullets suggested that fast burning powders are not great to use with Hi-Tek bullets. Please advise...

Has anyone gone against official Lee advice and reloaded 9mm loads with the Lee Loader kit for a semi automatic pistol? If so, any tips for a newbie?

Thanks...I was wondering how much the short barrel changes things. Should I worry a lot about the bullet style (SWC, HBWC, DEWC, etc), type of primer (manufacturer), COL, etc. or is the main concern bullet weight and amount of powder as long as I seat the bullet at approximately the correct depth? (Since I am only looking to "design" a low recoil, 30 foot practice round, after all. )

Still New... I recently got a Charter Arms 38 Undercover snubby, and I am looking to make my own reloads with a Lee Loader kit. I ordered some casted 148 grain SWC bullets from RimRock, and have some Titegroup and Accurate 2 powder. I want to reload VERY MILD loads to center-of-mass practice on a 30 foot target. I was wondering how many grains of these powders I might use, and how far I am supposed to seat the bullet into the brass. Please advise... First off, thanks to everyone who sent me some info yesterday to my above post-it's all adding to my stock of knowledge. To clarify: I do have a digital scale and won't be relying on those Lee Loader cups, and RimRock does indeed make a 148 grain, 38/357 SWC bullet. New Question: Titegroup suggests a min of 2.7 and a max of 3.3 for a 148 grain LHBWC. Is the 2.7 load a "low normal" or is it a very wimpy load? More precisely, can I go a bit below 2.7 to get even less recoil and whatnot and accurately hit paper at a self-defense distance of 30 feet or so? Do any of you shoot a 38 snubby at 0.2-0.3 grains less than the manufacturers minimum?

I recently got a Charter Arms 38 snubby, and I am looking to make my own reloads with a Lee Loader kit. I ordered some casted 148 grain SWC bullets from RimRock, and have some Titegroup and Accurate 2 powder. I want to reload VERY MILD loads to practice on a 30 foot target. I was wondering how many grains of these powders I should use, and how far I am supposed to seat the bullet into the brass. Please advise...