https://www.bild.de/geld/wirtschaft/wirtschaft/sig-sauer-macht-dicht-deutschlands-aeltester-waffenhersteller-pleite-71056132.bild.html
Run it through translate.
It basically says Sig Sauer Germany is bankcrupt because of Corona.
I have for all internals at least 1 spare. If you do regular maintance pins, springs and screws get bent, lost or worn.
You can always locate your grip panel in the grass, but never a sear spring. it will set you back maybe $ 150
And dont forget your tools.
The advantage of polishing when the gun is hardly used is that the contact points show up pretty clearly and with minimal effort a good result can be obtained and you dont have to ""over" polish.
I also built one myself. It might not be 100% accurate but it gives me a comparisson between different springs I have in my parts box.
I can use it for hammer and recoil springs. I measured several springs from the same manufacturer where the spring that should be lighter in fact was heavier.
Why do shooters worry about a 1/2 ounce difference in trigger weight but are not interested in spring weight.
It is like mounting a crank in a racing engine without measauring the clearance because the factory said that it was ok.
I'm wondering at what point you guys decide to install a longer firing pin and weaker spring.
I had it in and it dragged the primer and had a secondary contact point in the primer as if it bounced and hit the primer twice.
I took it out and put the original in and never had a problem with it.
My trigger pull in SA is 1280 grams (2.1 lbs) I dont shoot it in DA.
In Europe the OR is around € 250 more at € 1490. (some countries are little lower)
But you dont have to sent it of to have it milled and you can alway go back to the fixed sight.
igolfat8 I agree with you. I use LM47 moly grease. I also use that on the sides of the trigger bar and on the contact point of the sear. Oil on the rest of the parts.
And it only costs you a buck and 15 minutes filing the notches.
You still need to get the short arm in at the right angle ans make shure you dont pinch the spring to hard.
I swapped the safety (both sides) out for a wide one and the forst 2 three times they were very tight.
I had to tap the left side in with a hammer (tap not smack)
Is the slide feels heavier is that because of mechanical drag or maybe now you grip the slide at the front instead of the rear??
Check if you bent any parts during the tapping.
I see this part number for some time on the CZ shop site.
Wonder if there are any european users have installed this and how it compares to a stock barrel bushing
https://www.cz-spare.parts/barrel-bushing-precise-cz-75-ts-shadow2-sp-01
I use a 1 dollar needle nose plier with a small half round notch filed in both jaws
It hold the spring with almost no pressure and makes it very easy to push the spring in place
Without slave pin its in in a couple of seconds.