lgh

If you have the option of always picking up your own brass, buy new and keep using it over and over. Same headstamp and same # of rounds through each piece of brass. Maybe even the same chamber. That will keep things consistent if that is important. But if you can't conveniently pick up your own brass it can be a PITA sifting through others' brass to find yours. I shoot on my own property and have a gravel covered range and so it is easy for me to just buy new or separate once shot by headstamp and still keep things simple. Having said that, I have so much brass separated by headstamp that I never anticipate buying more brass and haven't bought new in decades. Many guys who post here shoot mixed headstamp of uncertain history and it serves their purpose well.

Ain't that the truth! Shooting RDS for a while and this week "tried" to shoot some open sight stuff (that's what I carry). OK for COM at 10 -15 yds but that's about it. Picked up a S&W Victory for a good price but I can see already it will need a RDS. Shooting rimfire is just fun. And I have a rimfire Texas Star that needs to be shot a lot. I can shoot it all I want without disturbing the neighbors. And my wife likes it!

This happens with some of us when we move from a single action to a Glock. Pulling the trigger from near your knuckle rather than the tip of your finger is a common and inexpensive solution. For me, I also find that a flat trigger like the ones from Overwatch Precision helps pull the trigger straight back but I solved the shooting left problem before buying the trigger just by moving my finger in ("more finger on the trigger"). Here's PatMac explaining it.

Why do you say this?IIRC, NRA has ventilation standards for indoor ranges. Have those been found to be ineffective? (I agree that brooming brass should be done with some care. It's stirring the pot so to speak.)

Thanks guys. Exactly what I wanted to know.

Because I have high cheek bones, my cheek weld puts my eyes low. I need a RDS that sits low. A Vortex Venom sits low but I am not sure if a Holosun 510 does. Anyone in a similar situation have any experience with a Holosun? It would go on a Ruger PCC or Henry lever action.

Skelt - Unless you have really, really precise and accurate calipers, it is probably not possible to measure accurately to 1/10,000. The calipers might read to that level but that does not mean it is accurate to that level. So in your example, the comparison is more appropriately 1.142 to 1.143.

With all due respect to the great people at Dillon, many people have found that mixed brass changes OAL. Maybe theoretically it shouldn't matter but when applying the infallible method of trial and error, it matters. I haven't measured the oal variation on my 650 in a while but, IIRC, it is way less than 0.010 when I use single headstamp 9mm brass.

I did not state that correctly. The re-sizing/decapping die in Station 1 is set at the top of the ram movement and is setting on top of the shell plate. If there is nothing in Station 1, the shell plate will have more wiggle in it. Obviously, this will have a greater effect if there is already a lot of wiggle in the shell plate. So get the wiggle out and always have a shell in Station 1. Dillon recommends always setting Die 1 first and having a shell in it when adjusting other dies.

357 - Do you check the drop at 100 vs zero at 50? I think that was the OP's question.

If oal is important, do what Sarge suggests. But like Philly said, the bullets themselves are not 100% uniform, vary mostly in the ogive part of the bullet, and the bullet can be seating off the ogive and not tip. You might want to measure 10 or 20 bullets - weight and length - to see how much variation there is. And be sure there is always a case in Station 1 when you are comparing oal. Station 1 stops the upward movement of the ram and if there is no case there then the upward movement will not be the same.

Sort of. I use the drop in Overwatch Precision trigger which has a flat face. It has a (-) connector but the innards are OTW just buffed up OEM. It gives me a slightly shorter reach than OEM and is more crisp than OEM with a (-) but the overall feel is not dramatically different than my EDC Glock which has the flat trigger and std connector. I don't want dramatic differences between game gun and EDC. OTOH, I don't game much since the competition scene here has been pretty much reduced to 3 gun and clay related shotgun.

I went from 1911 to Glocks years ago. The Glocks pointed way too high so I had grip reductions done on my 4 Gen 2 and 3 Glocks to get rid of the hump so they would point like a 1911. Works fine. Reading this post and wanting another 17, I might get a G4. Way cheaper.

Knowing your obsession has saved me a lot of money!?

I usually might leave powder in the hopper for a day or two. But I know over the years I've left it in for more than a week. Since I recheck the thrown wt before any reloading session, I know the powder does settle and the charge increases but other than that I have noticed no ill effects. Well, the hopper gets yellow if that counts.

If it works, it works. Plus, price and availability are good.

I certified with Pavel in 2003 and so am a kettlebell (KB) guy. There are several KB exercises that are particularly good for grip strength. Bottom up cleans, shown below by Jeff Martone, doing pushups on an inverted KB (handle down on ground with both hands on bottom of bell while you do a pushup balancing on the handle), and doing KB swing with a towel. The latter is used to check your swing technique. The KB should rise faster than your hands if your technique is correct but it is also a burner for your grip. One of my favorite grip exercises is pretty simple - one hand dry fire. A bit of advise. The lifts I mention are pretty straightforward but don't start messing with a lot of KB stuff without some instruction. You can screw yourself up pretty easily. And if you do the cleans Martone describes, start by just holding the inverted KB in the finish position so you know where you are headed when you do the lift and know how much weight you can reasonably handle. When you clean it, keep your attention on the KB, tighten everything up when it inverts, keep the elbow in, and check it with your free hand if it starts to twist in the wrong direction. That will probably happen when you first get started. If it does, your elbow is not tucked into your body and/or your grip is too loose. (Anything Jeff Martone says about KBs you can take to the bank. The guy is great.)

You'll never hear me talking about 1" @ 50yds with a pistol! I was shooting the PCC benched, bagged, and with a 14x scope.

I've measured all the once shot brass I shoot with. 10 measurements each brand. Length, case thickness at mouth, and one other parameter I can't recall. They vary and I consider that a factor in COAL variation but I didn't know of such an effect on accuracy. A Ransom rest might be interesting and I've always wanted one. Do you have to shoot them from a more-or-less permanent bench?

Jack - TK may have passed away. He certainly appears to have left. ?

Primary Machine milled my G17 for a Venom 6moa. Real nice work, timely, reasonable cost. I wish I would have had them put front cocking serrations on it but too late now.

Are you saying you literally curved your finger and put the tip on the trigger? You can achieve the same thing by just putting more finger on the trigger. i.e. first knuckle on the trigger instead of finger tip.

Thanks DT. Good reminder. I've done all of it but will double check.

Thanks PM. I check when putting the barrel back on. It seems to lock up tight but will double check next time to be sure.

There are many reasons why your vision might not be ideal. One common reason is that as you age you lose the ability to focus at different focal planes and you cannot see well at all distances. You end up with glasses, frequently bifocals. When you shoot irons you have to find the target at one distance, the front sight at another, and the rear at another. Typically you aren't able to see all clearly even when you focus on one at a time. (It's actually impossible to focus on all three at once.) So either the target or the front sight is "fuzzy", even with glasses. That does not make for accurate shooting. With a RDS, the dot and target are in the same focal plane. Much easier on the eyes. When shooting RDS, your attention is on the target and with both eyes open. Astigmatism is another common problem. It is caused by the lens in your eye being irregular. The result is that the light beam from an object is not focused at the same point by both eyes. That equals fuzzy. I have double vision or what is known technically as diplopia. I have had it my whole life and so do not really know any different. My two eyes do not focus at the same point and so I see two objects. One of the images is inaccurate and does not accurately localize the object. i.e. If I point at an object with my left eye it is in a different location than if I do with my right. Turns out only the left one is accurate and I have learned to pay attention to that image, usually ignoring the other. I can fuse them with effort but it is never perfect. Obviously I'm left eye dominant! Whenever I see my eye doctor he calls in all the med students, "Hey, you may not ever see this again." I oughta charge tuition. There are other reasons for less-than-ideal vision but this post is already getting too long.