lgh

I don't know. Seems pretty relevant to me. It is useful to know that, given the CO craze, some don't find it all that useful for EDC. Just shoot irons at defense distances after using your CO game gun for a while and see if it matters. Look at it this way, it might save someone a lot of money if they don't need to buy a RDS.

Back when we were running IDPA club matches, we talked some bullseye guys into shooting action. Funnier than heck! They waited forever, got nervous about the clock,, and then pulled the shot on 8"steel at 7 yds. (I'm not advocating steel at 7 yds.)

Get the spare parts kit and replace parts as you use them. Do develop a routine for starting and finishing a reloading session. It doesn't take very long. Check that dies and shell plate are tight, fail safe rod is tight enough, primer assembly is tight, etc. Check the powder drop to be sure it's throwing correctly before you start loading. I also check COL on the first few round out. I air spray the unit when done. If you use a shop vac, don't suck the position tabs out. If there's a problem, the solution is usually to clean, lube, and tune. Or just ask here. I don't think there are many Dillon problems that haven't been solved on this forum. I keep stats on my bullets and brass when I get a new batch. I find it helps for troubleshooting.

I have a TacSol on top of a Gen 2. Long break in but now runs well on MiniMags. I download the mag by 1because sometimes the first round will nose dive into the feed ramp even when I check its position. Overall, I'm happy with it.

Not uncommon for 22 semiautos to cylce HV but not SV. SV may not have enough ooomph! to overcome the recoil and hammer springs. You can change springs if the SV is more accurate and that's what you want.

My experience as well.

This. Many 22 autos can be hard to rack with the hammer down. Lube might help but the real solution is to get a slide racker. Tandemkross has them and a whole bunch of other cool stuff for the Buckmark. I have an older Buckmark on which the Tandemkross racker will not fit but I have one on a S&W Victory and it is real nice. (The TK trigger for the Victory is also very nice.) https://www.tandemkross.com/halo-Charging-Ring-for-the-Browning-Buck-Mark_p_200.html

Maybe this stuff matters for bench rest shooters but not really for gamer-type high volume loads. The cumulative reloading experience here at BE is probably way over 500k/year and most if not all do not get too worked up about a little dirt here and there. Any loss in accuracy is likely shooter related and not dirt related. The only problem I've had with media in brass is when I deprimed 5.56 brass before cleaning and media got stuck in the flash hole. PITA.

I don't understand your post. Did your DPP bite the dust after 15000 rounds? Did you talk with the manufacturer? Probably a good resource. What did they say?

If it runs, leave it. The most problems I've seen with 1911's is magazines and when people (friends) mess with what's working. "The enemy of good is better."

I used to shoot 45 1911 SS all the time. Switched to Glocks for a while but now am getting out the 45 SS again. A nice feature of the 1911 SS is you can put a 22 top end on it for added fun. Works great for rimfire Steel Challenge.

Me too. I just run the brass through walnut and then corn cob media with car polish. Nice and shiny. Never clean primer pockets. Occasional backward primer or other minor glitch that is easy to detect. Blow out the 650 after each session. Been doing it that way for 100k + rounds.

My Victory seems to process just about anything. For those interested, here's manufacturers' velocity on a bunch of 22 ammo. It's important to me because I shoot in Wisconsin. When the temp drops, lower velocity ammo may not cycle. FED ATUO MATCH, 40GR 1200 MINI-MAG, 40GR 1235 FED BULK, 36GR 1260 REM GOLD, 36GR 1280 WIN SUPER X 1300

Minimags seem to run in anything. Like others, I find AR Tactical also runs great.

When I used one I put the nut on the bottom.

Just sayin' if it functions it's not junk ammo. It's pretty darn good!

When Automatch functions in my guns, it is usually quite accurate. Some of the small bore guys at the club use it for competitions and they demand very high accuracy. Just sayin' ...

I agree. Try to induce a double charge and you will probably find it doesn't "just happen".

Cool vid. Steel targets are also frequently put on round steel posts. I know it's hard to believe but some shooters hit the pole and not the steel target. So you end up with a round surface with dents in it. Not ideal for minimizing ricochets. I put my steel targets on dead trees or a tree that just ticks me off. Should be safer.

Similar thing happened to my buddy. He saw a slow moving 45 slug coming back at him while shooting steel. That will get your attention.

Splatter and ricochets are different but not necessarily from the safety point of view. We used to run steel targets at 7 yd (no hardball). I have been hit by splatter many times but not a ricochet. But something that got my attention was the presence of bullets, not fragments, in front of solid targets. The target distances were then all increased because concerns about ricochets are founded in experience, not theory.

According to Dillon, the powder check will detect "none vs double charge". It doesn't really check the accuracy of the charge. In 9mm, the case is pretty full with a typical charge and a double will spill over. A no charge is, well, pretty easy to see. So if you do a visual you should be good. I don't use a powder check for 9 but I do for Titegroup charges in 45 since the case is big and the charge is small.

If you are happy with functioning you should be GTG. Slight changes in accuracy with COL are usually not important. Some here, including myself, find COL changes with headstamp. But I only separate because it is easier to troubleshoot a problem if that variable is removed, not because of accuracy or function. And I have a home range so I only have to separate by headstamp once. I stopped separating 45 brass because it just didn't matter.

I agree with Eric. I have smallish hands and have a 17 on a 19 frame (professionally chopped) that I use for EDC. My "game gun" is a 17 and I much prefer the larger frame for balance, grip, and speed from the holster. As usual, YMMV.

What Marshall said. It really doesn't do much more that you could get with a polished OEM connector. I like the OEM "-" configuration more than the box full of aftermarket connectors I have but your mileage might vary.