Glk21C

sounds like two things, both mean the tube(s) are out of spec. 1. the double to single stack transition has gotten too wide, causing the rounds to not come up into a nice single stack as they near the top of the tube. There are videos on youtube about this and images here on be.com of how to squeeze this area in a vice. It's easy but it's just as easy to completely mess up the tube. If you are not mechanically inclined I would not attempt this. 2. the follower getting stuck in the tube is a symptom of the main area of the tube has gotten too wide and needs to be squeezed back down some. The ideal width between the control ribs inside the tube is 0.740” for typ. Reloaded ammo, no narrower than 0.730”, no wider than 0.765” and keep tube square. Too narrow left to right and there is less capacity. Too wide left to right and the rounds can start to stack incorrectly and bind on each other. Squeezing a tube in a smooth face vise is doable, but if needing to squeeze it you have to go further than what is needed for the metal to take a new shape. Need to be very careful. If you are not mechanically inclined I would not attempt this.

It's the extractor tension that is off. Since you have an Aftec on the way it is NOT UNUSUAL to have to fit them to each gun, they are almost never a drop-in part. A lot of folks love them, some don't. I've always felt they were a solution to a problem that does not exist but that's just me. If the gun with the current extractor does not appear to be broken (the extractor) why not just re-tension it first? Also, I would suspect your jams happen more frequently with a big stick than it does with your 140's. Extractor tension problems start rearing their ugly head first using big sticks but when it gets bad enough it will give you fits in all size magazines. good luck, hope it all works out

I tried AA 38sc ammo a few years ago and oddly enough it’s the only ammo I’ve ever shot out of my open gun where I experienced light strikes. It was about one out of every 100 rounds. They seem to be a reputable company so it had to be something on my end.

had someone tell me once to hammer the bottom of the racker a little to flatten out the metal so that it becomes a little snugger in the dovetail

That and does it do it with any magazine length or just big sticks?

grams followers and springs are of his design from a long time ago(20+ years) taran followers are from when he purchased everything from Bolen and later when he imitated Grams follower design.

what he said, Grams all the way

Grams never made aluminum BP's. Those aluminum ones you have are something Dawson's made to copy Gram's design a long time ago, which he (dawson) had to stop making as it was an infringement on Gram's patent back then. So Dawson changed his design to what you see today.

Idiot. Sorry, couldn't help it..

Try doing a search, there are 100's of threads about 2011 magazines, you'll learn tons. Nothing needs tuning, it's whether or not they need to be fixed to bring them into proper specs. Good luck

Back when I had a small frame Tanfoglio open gun(just a small three port comp, no barrel holes) I exclusively used aa5 for major loads. Worked great. It was the choice of many top shooters in the 90’s shooting this style of open gun. Today though with radically different open gun designs it does not work so well, like those v4 and v6 Tanfoglios, or 2011 with barrel holes and better comps. Minor loads for steel, better suited.

Not sure where you are in WV but there is a dealer in WV who has been a sponsor at the Area 8 match the past few years. R.S.P Gun Shop, Falling Waters, WV. Nice guy. Good luck

The design/how the barrel locks up of cz /tangs is such that the slide stop pin is designed to break. Using a hardened pin not a good idea

No worries. If you need 9/38 let me know because I think I answered 40

At least I think I did let some other thread somewhere

However this thread originally started (caliber) I answered the question earlier in the Thread

I've been looking for this text, found it, here it is: · You need to measure the inside of the tube between the control ribs. The ideal width between the control ribs is 0.815” for typ. Reloaded ammo, no narrower than 0.790”, no wider than 0.825” and keep tube square. Too narrow left to right and there is less capacity. Too wide left to right and the rounds can start to stack incorrectly and bind on each other. Squeezing a tube in a smooth face vise is doable, but if needing to squeeze it you have to go further than what is needed for the metal to take a new shape. Need to be very careful.

Better check the internal width of that tube. That tti follower having a round slip past it is a precursor to it happening with other s&f combos

http://www.trippresearchinc.com/t2-modular/ another pending entry into the open gun scene from one of the originators of the 2011.

I've talked at length with Bevin about his BP's. He's called the mag master for a reason; he figured out a long time ago all the intricacies about the 2011 double stack mags and how to make them work reliably and with the extra capacity most want. It's critical the bottom of the tube is within spec (size) just like the middle of the tube and the top of the tube (feed lips). If the bottom of the tube is too wide, and you install the u-pin into the BP and it's really tough to push in the BP will inevitably crack when the mag hits the ground. That extra friction of the u-pin fit creates a lot more stress on the material he uses to make the BP's. If the u-pin slides in when the BP is on the tube just as easy as when the BP is off the tube, the tube is within spec. When fitting correctly the BP then acts more like a shock absorber when the mag hits the ground, taking the majority of the impact, putting less stress on the tube itself, keeping all those other dimensions about the tube within spec. Aluminum BP's, giving the impression of being stronger because they are metal don't absorb all that impact energy, instead transfers that energy through the tube, which will more negatively affect al those critical dimensions. Yes, he will replace cracked BP's, he's good that way, but when you contact him about it he will ask how the u-pin fit in the BP when on the tube.

Grams

I've found the 38 super powder funnel (Dillon) to be just a tad to large which leads to the brass having a ID that is just a little too large. Chuck up the powder funnel in a drill press and while it's spinning take a fine file to the outside of the funnel where it expands the brass in order to take a small amount of material off. Then some wet/dry sandpaper to polish it up while still spinning in the drill press. Taking a small amount off of the OD of the funnel will reduce the ID of the brass, thus eliminating the setback. I got this from someone else here on the forum after doing a search as I was having the same problem you are. Of course, I am under the assumption you are loading on a Dillon. Good luck

I've done it, all depends on the guts inside your tubes. Plus you really need a drill press that can be adjusted to a really slow speed in order to drill the stainless tubes and NOT burn up your, what should already be, sharp drill bits. Or of course, bore them using a mill. I've also heard the holes in the back of the newer STI tubes are not accurate in their location. I've only heard that, have not witnessed it myself. Don, if you want to give me a pm with your phone number and I'll give you a shout next week.

Malibu, he's been gone for over four years, still miss him terribly.

Grams (my personal favorite) and TTI (was Bolen's originally) provide the most capacity per given like size. PM me for more info if you like