bigbob21

On his podcast Ben and the others say they've all shot 124-147 and while they prefer the recoil impulse of 147s, they shoot 124s (mostly) because they're cheaper and they don't seem to be so harsh on the gun... I run 135s, happy medium. But that's in glocks/XD's... I'll prolly switch to 124s when I get an all metal stock2 like those guys. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm new to the sport in general... Right when I was getting into uspsa CO was coming in and I was interested because I already had an rmr dot on a g19. I normally shoot my g34 better than my 19, (faster splits, reloading is easier, recoil control, blah blah blah) however, once you find the dot, the above users are correct, target focus is much easier to use in general and the dot lets you do that with ease. Running small matches with 2-4 stages, I seem to do slightly better with my 19 and the dot over my 34 with no dot. I score basically the same with targets 12 yards and in, but 15,20-30 yards and it's much easier to 1 for 1 steel with the dot than without... (I still need to work on long distance trigger control/fine sight pictures) I do have problems finding the dot on presentation, but that's because I don't train with the dot even a 1/4 as much as I do with regular irons. I can imagine more training and/or a bigger glass (different optic) will make it easier to find the dot upon presentation/draws. Once I'm on target though, it's very easy to swing the dot from target to target and never lose it in recoil. (I only shoot the dot at small matches where they let me shoot two guns. I'd rather focus on production, but the dot sure is fun) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm on step 1 of this process/problem... I'm about 10k rounds into a new press and started getting feeding problems yesterday. Problem goes away if I slam down the handle to "shake" the 650 enough for a stuck case to fall, but if I run it smooth and steady (so my shoulder isn't sore the next day) I get cases that won't fall. I checked the cam yesterday and the set screw that's supposed to hold it "flush" seems to be spinning and won't get a good hold anymore. I had this problem maybe 5k rounds ago and the solution was to just push the cam further forward and tighten it down. Doesn't seem to work this time around.... Was going to call Dillon on Monday regarding a cam since the delrin (or whatever the cam is made of) seems to be stripped... Definitely following this thread. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I run an 11# in a 34... Works well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very clean looking! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Glockstore used to sell a self resetting trigger kit, marketed for laser training in real guns... Maybe someone sells that for m&p? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

One source tactical has a few new ones with cuts (not oem) for a lot cheaper than that... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are a few ranges in rgv, check/explore Facebook. I've never been (I live in Laredo) but coyote arms in Edinburg looks popular. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Manderson... I think it's been confirmed, once you go above 115, any gains in perceived accuracy or recoil reduction is all personal to the shooter. In general 124s are cheaper than 147s... Although not always, just typically. I personally shoot 135 bayou's... They're same cost as 124s, lol! Ok ben's podcast, most of the guys say they liked the way 147s shoot but typically will shoot 124s because they "run the gun better" and are cheaper in the quantities they shoot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There's a nice vid on Facebook about it from the Recoil magazine guys https://www.facebook.com/Recoil.gun.lifestyle/videos/1055490304530170/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've read somewhere 300 or less... I use a toaster oven, set to 280 for 1/2 hour... Works fine. Brass comes out spotless if you do the towel/shake/tumble dry method first... Extra 1-2 minutes of work, for shinier brass. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The way this thread is going... It sounds like y'all are up for turning a limited minor gun into a production optics gun... (With 10+ mag capacity) Cheaper to buy an optic and slide cut/dovetail mount vs buying a new steel pistol to compete in production and x2 or x3 cheaper than buying a new 2011 to compete in limited/open. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1 for whatever you choose... I'm about 1 step behind u. Falling in love with uspsa. I run glocks, but not liking them so much for competition... Was just about ready to delve into the tanfo's and managed to get an rmr on my g19 for a fun... So now in torn, I love shooting with a red dot. Managed to shoot a 5" Sti open gun and loved it. But I really like the idea of production and the mag changes and strategy. (P.s. I like the idea of tanfo's and 2011s because I like tinkering and feel like I could do 90% of my own gunsmithing) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have about 2900 of them if your looking to buy. Bought 3000 from cabelas a few weeks ago and loaded 100. Got maybe 2 outa 10 go off in 3 diff 9mm guns. (Stock g19 & xdm as well as 4lb spring in glock 34) I guess I could try a 6 lb spring. But I'm lazy. They're just sittin in my safe now Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have an rm07 on my g19. The window is pretty small. If I had to do over again, I'd get a Romeo or delta point pro. But I already have a custom slide with rmr cut so I can't swap to another red dot. They're windows are bigger and would give you a slight edge on finding your dot. But the rmr is just fine. Works great, no issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Was Googling this same thing today. Bought 3300 from bayou. One of their reviews on the site says: 5star, best of both worlds between 124/147 in terms of recoil and uses same powder charge as 147. If this thread is empty next week when they come in, I'll start low and make 2-3 loads with titegroup and report my chrono numbers.

I just have a standard m3000. I need to practice my reloads but sometimes it's like hitting a brick wall with the shell. I think I need to take a little off the string also but first I'm going to load it up and let it compress a few days. I was working of Patrick kelley pictures from his orginal gun. I can not see the follower as you can in his pictures. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk You can take it a little more forward and down on the 3oclock as well as the 12 o'clock, albeit a bit angled. I did mine last week to an m3k. Feels nice and smooth, definitely loading faster than stock. But occasionally, like you, I feel the first shell (whether loading dual or quad) gets stuck when it's maybe a little past 3/4 of the way inserted... And it halts my progress on the 2nd shell. I usually have to wiggle it or back out half way and then forcefully retry. Sometimes, it causes me to fumble the 2nd set of the quad that I'm holding. (Still new to grasping 4 at a time so my grip isn't all that solid yet) Only happens about 1 out of every 3-4 attempts. I think there might be more polishing needed above where the follower sits... Just inside the mag tube on the top. If I had to guess I'd say hats where it's sticking... But I've been told to be careful on doing the inside as you might wear off the shelf for the follower. Hope someone else could elaborate further...

Tried that a few times... About 1/2 my attempts keeps you shooting... The skrewdriver I was referring to in tiny. Probably 1/8" head. Doesn't provide a lot of force and haven't scratched any parts. It's more for leverage than for brute force in opening the slide/barrel. Didnt get any death jams with smaller oal and gauged ammo for a small match yesterday. (The failures would likely have jammed) Shot lil less than 300 between three guns. Did have about 2 fail to feeds, but either re-racked or removed mag and it slide into chamber and kept going. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have the same hundred case gauge... Takes 5 mins if ur checking 100ish, but I get lazy if I'm doing 500-1000 at a time... I'll look into ur earlier suggestions.... Was wondering if it's worth sizing ALL my brass first and gauging it and keeping it in its own bin, just to save the 5% rejects from accumulating in my "pull ziplock", lol

Are you using an aftermarket Glock 34 barrel? What's your load recipe? If the chamber is too tight and/or COL is too long, you could have the problem you described.YesKkm I'm noticing it's picker than stock. But my wife's xdm takes be cake... That stock barrel doesn't like anything over 1.1350 So I'm starting to load to 1.12 for both guns and had no jams today at a match. (Gauged 200 rounds and tossed about 3-4 that didn't pass)

I'm relatively new to uspsa/action shooting... Been forced into shooting limited minor locally bc I'm not fully equipped yet. Listening to ben's videos makes me want to go production with my glock/maybe future tanfo vs spending 2-3k on a limited gun. (Yes I know glocks work in limited too, but I like shiny things and already reload for 9mm) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So again, sorry to thread jack, but to follow up: Bought a 9mm u-die, ran about 400 rounds through it, mixed brass, same oal, did some drills today and had about 8-9 complete lookups. (Slide stuck with round chambered but slight gap between barrel and slide) I've been carrying a small flathead with me to unhinge the slide in case that happens. (I stick it In between the barrel and slide opening on the extractor side and force it open) Each time the case/round is stuck in the barrel and need to use the flathead for that as well... I took the rounds home and none fit the case gauge nor the barrel plunk test with a twist... I guess only thing left to do is: sort brass by headstand and find the culprits, or case gauge every round, even for practice... *sigh* Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1.135+/- could maybe use a tighter crimp... I've gone really easy with that after reading hundreds of posts on here saying "too much crimp!" Lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was having same problem... Bought a 650 last month and have been having 7-10% case gauge failures... Decided I'd be fine without case gauging bc they seemed to fit my glock 34. I've had 3 complete lockup failures on my 34 and 1 on my 19 and another on an xdm... Of course I'll case gauge my match ammo, but for practice it's pretty annoying. Anyways, I bought a Lee undersized die from Natchez on Monday, arrived on Thursday... Paid 17$ shipping! For a tiny die! Anyways, shot maybe 500 rounds over the weekend with the new die's rounds... Had 1 lockup failure and again had to use a screwdriver to open up the barrel lockup to get the round out... (Slide completely stuck and could not hand cycle to clear the jamb) I guess it brought down my failure rate... Guess next step is to check head stamps and compare which work and which don't... Or gauge every round, lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Atlas gunworks has a video on YouTube that says you just swap the breach face and the barrel for SVI type guns... Not Sti/clones. Might closet a little less than the $500 your estimating. Definitely not as cheap for other 2011 guns without the SVI interchangeable breechface. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk