bigbob21

I saw a post a while back that Eric uses a 6# I figured it couldn't hurt, was already going to do a full test from 8-12#, might as well throw it in the shopping cart Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Really liking a 6# recoil with PD 12# hammer For 9mm 130pf 135g bayou bullets Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No worries mate, thanks for your hard work on the limited runs Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

She's pretty ugly with the RMR... Window is probably the smallest on the market, and had to do a lot of dry firing to find the dot on the draw... managed to come in 2nd out of 22 at a local all steel match today behind an open B shooter... (I'm unclassified) The tolerances on my stock2 don't match those used by Bruce @ Primary so he suggested I add a piece of shim stock underneath... hasn't moved at all over 200 rounds... Looking at the available mounts vs optics that fit them, I think I'll stick to the RMR until someone makes an RTS2 dovetail mount... the slight increased window size of the delta point isn't worth buying another 400$ optic + $60 mount for me. The RTS2 is noticeably bigger and would therefore be worth my time if I continue to pursue carry optics next year. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can insert jpeg images using the top menus (file, edit, blah blah blah) You paste them in 3D and can stretch as needed... Those logos on that stage look to be pasted on one wall, saved as a group, and then copied as needed... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can't say much other than for the rmr I have Suarez suppressor sights that cowitness with my rmr (glock) They're tall and your skills with regular sights don't help much with suppressor sights... your eyes won't line up at same height. Better to choose one or the other and not switch back and forth unless just for fun. Bought the rmr plate from primary, going to try out and see if I like it on the steel stock2... I know for a fact I'm not as fast with the rmr because I don't train for it... I lose the dot on draws and long runs. (I only train production, dots are for fun) But I 1 for 1 steel with the dot that I might or might not with sights under stress.... Thinking if I like the dot on the stock2 I'll go look at some dots in a store and buy another Primary plate to match. For sure wouldn't use the rmr competitively. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

From sig Romeo thread... Deltapoint Pro 25.7mm x 17.5mm; 1.01” x 0.68” Vortex razor 27.8x17.4 Vortex venom 26.3x16.3 vortex viper 17.5x24 fastfire3 is 25.4mm w x 25.4mm h (including housing material) rmr is 22mm w x 16mm h rts2 25mm w x 22mm h c-more slideride 29mm (for comparison only) romeo3 25 wide x 21 h romeo1 30 wide x 16 H looking at all these sizes... no wonder I hate my RMR, lol Fast fire seems biggest for the cheapest Not all of these are easily mounted... I have an rmr on a g19 and it loses zero pretty quickly... most likely due to being bumped around rather than shooting hundreds of rounds... For me, I find the rmr too short, plenty wide. So anything taller than a 16mm window would be great. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Couldn't find anything online about it... So I attempted to take the receiver apart... as I backed out carrier pin the latch and button reset themselves into place. (They were crooked) Pushed the pin back into place and now the bolt locks back and the latch releases new shells into the breach Saw the carrier and parts online for cheap, but didn't want to buy them until I knew for sure I needed them. I guess I just needed to experiment with the parts and a more detailed disassembly. Just wish there was some troubleshooting info out there... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your probably right and I think that whole mechanism is the problem... it looks bent toward the receiver instead of floating parallel to it... might have messed something inside that's supposed to catch the bolt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anyone having/had any issues with bolt not locking to rear? Can't get it to load from mag tube with either bottom "benelli button" or blue bolt release/lifter button either... I can load single shot at a time, my brother took it apart to attempt to go hunting with it and I think he either dropped it or messed something up attempting to put in the orange limiter... i just lubed it up and put my extended tube and such back on and still can't get her going... after messing with blue bolt/mag release Allen screw, was able to get some dummy rounds to feed, but two fly out and get stuck behind lifter... any input appreciated...

Not sure if serious...

For reals... My rear sight is loose already (wiggling a bit in the dovetail) and I've only shot maybe 2-3000 rounds through the gun. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've noticed the failure to feed could be a bullet oal issue... Had similar issues in the past, ran heavier springs, still had an occasional jam, now running 6-8# springs (can't decide which I like) after going down in oal Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think some one needs to sum it up and say "taller glass" is needed for something like CO... possibly not needed as much for an open shooter who's dot doesn't/shouldn't rise as much as a production gun? Not owning either optic, I'm assuming the romeo 1 (being wider and shorter) is useful for open while the romeo3 (almost as wide and a bit taller) would be more useful for CO? of course that's subjective... some people might not need width and might only care about height. for comparison, I just googled the competition... fastfire3 is 25.4mm w x 25.4mm h (including housing material) rmr is 22mm w x 16mm h (lense measurement) rts2 25mm w x 22mm h (lense measurement) c-more slideride 29mm (perfectly round?) deltapoint pro 33.2mm x 33.0mm (including housing material) looking at all these sizes... no wonder I hate my RMR, lol

hmmm so light recoil spring and light hammer spring = not the most benefit? finally got that 10lb PD hammer spring in and a bunch of federal primers

I recently tried an 8lb vs 9lb and they both feel the same to me...(recoil/sights returning, etc...) Ran a 100 rounds through a 6lb (after hearing Eric uses one) and it feels weird... Maybe I can describe it as some have said they're guns feel slugish? I'm not the fastest shooter around here, but I don't see a problem with split times and the "slower" spring return... The sights return just fine? The recoil impulse just feels weird... Was going to try and run it in a small match today but got rained out...

agreed... I shoot 135s-147s @ 130pf Im wondering if guys shooting lower lb springs are running less than 130 or more than 130? If more, wouldn't there be more recoil defeating the purpose of making our own loads? And with less power factor aren't you at risk of failing chrono? Or are we just unlucky and everyone shoots 130pf

Either pro's run 8s or less or I have weak grip strength... I dunno how you guys do those "show me clear" motions with just your thumb and webbing over the slide... I run a 9lb and it's doable but I just use the rear serrations... also... Ben shoots 124s not 147s, so that might affect it a bit...

I just went through all this a month or so ago... Atlas' guide is the most thorough... There are a couple of Vids on YouTube that are hard to find... One guy did some polishing to sears and trigger parts/swapping a few years back and another guy does a complete take down and rebuild maybe from 2015? just gotta search for "tanfoglio sear" or "tanfoglio trigger"... it is kind of self explanatory though after 1 read through the guide you'll know what "needs" polishing and what needs lube, etc... simple polishing with 400-2000 sandpaper and dremel polishing wheel with metal polish... couple of parts I used the dremel with a rough fabric type brush wheel as a makeshift sanding wheel... Probably 3-400grit if I had to guess... Smoothed things out real well and didn't spend more than 5 minutes per piece after that polishing. just be sure not to take any significant material off of any of the parts of your gun is currently working properly...fitting new parts is only slightly harder. Not as hard as 2011s, so I hear... I had to fit new sear and disco before I got a bolo. Not too hard.

I think the issue most under A class people have is the "speed" in which we transition the gun from target to target... Getting the gun pointing at brown isn't really the issue, it's getting the sights aligned for a good scoring shot. I think the majority of able body died guys who are slow have this problem > their feet. Most people tell themselves when they see their sights aren't straight either a) slow down and get good hits or b ) shoot 2 fast shots and hope for the best... Sometimes the latter works out ok for score (mostly locally where a lot of places have hoser type stages) usually the former just means means your slow. Hence the majority of us either rank up fast and can't push the podium in the higher class or rank in the lower classes and struggle finding speed. I find at I'm sort of in the middle, I love going fast and can usually tame my shots to either AA or AC on paper depending on how bad the first shot was.... But I find myself missing steel at 15+ yards and really having to stop my feet and go slooooow.... Can't figure it out, especially since half my live fire practice is with static steel at medium to far distances.... (Most of my dry fire is fast transition stuff) I just chalk it up to experience... Only been competitively shooting for less than a year and figure I (like most of us) need more time with the gun in my hand, working on lining up the sights on draws and transitions... Nothing worse than going for target to target fast, but your sights weren't line up right and your shooting a D on your first shot with a makeup A/C... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'm very very new to multi-gun... My first caddy was the invictis 16 (basically (2)-2.8's put together sold as one unit... It's awesome! Run it on a safari land els belt system... The stages at my small local range only get up to 10-20 shotgun rounds... So the 16 is plenty if you include what's already in your gun... With just 1/2 hour to hour of dry fire, can do dueces and slow quads no problem with this setup. Cheers Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Henning Trigger plunger spring kit... Drops pull couple ounces... Might want to think about grips... Some people love stock wood grips some people hate them... Base pads for the mags? Bsps gives like $5 discount on each if u buy both together... 6lb recoil spring didn't feel good to me 8-9lbs works good for me Set of good/strong punches and make sure it comes with 1/16" punch... Broke 2 cheap ones already Small files/sandpaper/dremel + polishing agent to fit the sear and polish everything on the inside nice and shiny... Kinda sux to see the prices you posted... I just went through this whole process about a month ago and didn't pay much attention to the total cost, lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agreed on all points... Been shooting glocks for a year and decided to get serious about production so I bought a stock 2 about a month ago. - Heavier/harder to point - recoil isn't muuuuch better but definitely less snappy. If you've got a strong grip and shoot gamer loads, the steel gun won't help but maybe 5%. -trigger is way better after maybe 200$ worth of parts. If u don't plan on upgrading and polishing everything don't bother, my stock pull weights were 11lb double action 4.5lb single action -reloading is way harder, I think it's combination of steel on steel as said above as well as a different grip angle. Ultimately it's still a very nice gun. It won't move you up in class but it definitely will make you want to practice more, and whatever gets you training more gets you better... I'm in love. But be sure to study up on the forums about maintenance and upgrades... It's way diff than a glock But way more satisfying doing your own gunsmithing. Just gotta be brave on the disconnecter if you choose a t3 or bolo As well as the sear if you happen to replace a few things and the safety won't engage... Not too hard. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I run a 10# recoil spring when I went lighter I had feeding issues at about 133pf I don't mean to go too off topic... What problems did you all see with too heavy or too light a recoil spring? I dropped down to an 8 and had 2 failure into battery issues out of maybe 300 rounds yesterday... Had to push the slide forward with my shooting thumb... Should I jump up to a 9lb? Or add .1g to my loads? Already at 131pf

A while back you mentioned running 10# recoil spring... Did u end up trying another weight? I had a 9 in mine for a bit, tried and 8 and a 6 today after hearing that Henning and few others go that low... An 8 seems to run my gun fine for me, a 6 felt slow as I could feel a dragging sensation on the slide and it returned at an odd time which made me lift and dip the gun oddly. Maybe a 10# is too fast for the PF of your ammo? Dunno for sure, but recoil springs are a relatively cheap option to test. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk