TDA

I just checked and the code worked for me. I tried 100 pcs of 200gr RN in .45ACP Try "ENOS10" as it only works if in caps.

...but not necessarily how the cases should feed!

There really should be no mark. Especially a ring that looks like it cut through the coating. All you need to do is remove the flare.

i wouldn't consider that being a pest at all, since they requested payment months ago and stated that it was nearly completed. I imagine that if you don't start calling, your pistol may just sit in a bn on a shelf indefinitely.

^^^ That.s how I see it as well!

It makes sense to me. If you lighten up the main spring you increase your chances of light strikes. You lightened yours up even more and had more light strikes.

What problem is it that you are encountering that would require modification of the indexing ring?

Strangely enough, I loaded some .45 last night, and in 50 rounds I had 11 primers go in the case sideways with my XL650. Never had a problem before. I played with it a bit and found that there was a film of goo between the shell plate and the ram platform that was impeding the full rotation of the shell plate. With the goo in there the detente ball wasn't fully engaging the shell plate, so the primer pocket was not properly aligned with the primer punch. Cleaned it all up and the shell plate snaps into position and the primers all go into the cases nicely again. There was very little goo, but just enough to cause a problem.

Slide Glide Heavy on the rails. TW-25 on the internal parts. I mainly shoot pistols with full length rails. (P series Sig's, 1911's, Hi-Power) The pistol style dictates the lube. Glock and M&P style pistols can practically run dry.

I shot thousands of rounds of their remans in 9mm and .40 prior to doing my own reloading and never had the first issue with their ammo.

Agree with jmorris as well. I have yet to make a change to my 650 and all it does is run perfectly. Dillon dies as well. No issues there either.

Did you try a different brand of primers? Is the shell plate bolt properly adjusted?

I had two .40 cases do it to me twice on Saturday. I was beginning to wonder if I was ever going to get those two loaded... Just what "Dillon" is saying.

I just glance at the indicator on the powder check since it is right in front of my face. It's easy to see that the switch plunger is in the V groove.

What happens when you actually shoot them rather than just hand cycling them?

Why would you be wearing hearing protection when reloading?

Loosen the clamp screw securing the power die. Screw the die in about 1/16- turn. Tighten the clamp screw. Try it ans see if it stops shaving. Repeat as necessary.

That makes sense! Thanks!

Ink up a round with a Sharpie and see where it is making contact.

I picked these up at the range the other day. It wasn't shot from a Glock, and I'm not exactly sure what it was shot from, but Iwhatever it was, I don't want one!

Crimp does not set the neck tension. Neck tension is a function of the bullet fit in the case. The function of "crimp" in an auto loading pistol is simply to remove the flare that is needed to fit the bullet into the case so that it doesn't get shaved.

The "cratering" seems to depend on the breech face. M&P and Glock always always leave an imprint on the primer, as does my Beretta. My Sig's and my 1911 do not though. Yours look like a Beretta breech face imprint.

As far as crimping goes, pull a bullet and see if there is a mark on it from the crimp. There should be no mark.

It depends on the bullet profile. I have some 230 LRN that want to be 1.200", while others work at 1.230". I was judging by the exposed shoulder. My LRN's need to have the shoulder flush with the case mouth to run in my 1911. I start by calculating the max oal for a particular bullet in a particular barrel, and then work from there.

The OAL looks a bit long. Did you try shortening them up a bit to see if that helps feeding?