TDA

^^ Mine sounds like a cement mixer full of rocks when it has cases in the hopper, and it's quiet when it's empty. When it gets quiet, there is still a stack of cases in the tube, so there is plenty of time to fill the hopper again.

I wasn't meaning to imply that there was a right or wrong method, just putting it out there for consideration.

"Hard numbers" are not always the ideal situation as they can be dependent on measuring technique and other factors. Using .45 for an example, you can get bullets in .451". .452", and .453" which will result in different case diameters. In 9mm, Blue 147's are a different diameter than Acme 147's. That's why I suggest a straight case wall rather that a hard number.

A quick search for "crimp" would most likely turn up about 678,300 threads asking the same question. But, yes, all you need with a pistol round is a straight case wall. No bell and no "crimp".

It has been discussed before and it is caused by the seating stem not fitting over the bullet. The edge of the seating stem is all that is contacting the bullet and pressing the ring into it. It doesn't seem to have any effect on how the bullet flies. The solution would be to re-shape the mouth of the seating stem. I have the same issue when seating 180 gr Moly RNFP's.

Can't quite get a grip on how adding a shell plate bearing affects the powder measure.

With locked elbows (fully extended arms) I am not nearly as steady when holding the pistol and find that accuracy suffers. I'm much more relaxed and comfortable with a slight bend.

Someone should tell that guy he shouldn't put his index finger over the front trigger guard, he may then reach his potential. Yea, he probably picked up that bad habit from Jerry Miculek. Just think how much more success Jerry would have if he got that index finger off of the trigger guard...

The de-capping pin punches out the spent primer, but the primer sticks to the pin causing is to be partially drawn back up into the primer pocket. The shell plate then rotates to the priming station and the new primer pushes the spent primer back into position and seats it. The shell plate and primer wheel rotate again and the new primer that should have been pushed into the primer pocket falls onto the "ski jump". The shuttle style priming system does a similar thing, except that the new primer that should have been seated now just stays on the primer punch and gets seated into the next round.

Just stone the sharp edges/corners off of the end of the de-capping pin.

Since you already have both BBI and Bayou, it shouldn't be too difficult to compare them!

So, if you don't think that it is draw back, what exactly is the problem? Is the pin bending or breaking? Is the primer deformed into a cone shape from the pin and protruding from the case head without being pushed out fully? Got a pic of one of the problem cases? There's just no other explanation that I can imagine. That's exactly what I am thinking as well, which is why I asking for a few more details.

So, if you don't think that it is draw back, what exactly is the problem? Is the pin bending or breaking? Is the primer deformed into a cone shape from the pin and protruding from the case head without being pushed out fully? Got a pic of one of the problem cases?

I would imagine it's for both, as it is referred to as the 9-38 funnel. It expands to .353" with a short .358".step to hold the bullet straight.

^^ Slide Glide on the rails, and TW-25 on the internal moving parts of my pistols.

When I stated they were smokey, I should have stated a bit smokier. They were 230gr RN (.452") with 5gr of Unique, which I find to be a bit smokey regardless. I only tumbled fifty just to try and there was not enough Alox on them to be very apparent as far as color change, but next time I try some I'll lighten way up on it just until they are slightly shiny. This is on bullets that I normally wouldn't buy or shoot, (230gr RN) but Inherited a couple thousand of them, so I decided I would figure out a way to get them to work and use up some powder that I really didn't care for in the process. I normally shoot 200gr LSWC's, and the .452" work pretty well with just minor leading, but I believe that the .453" will be just about right! Thanks for the help!

Cheap, and it works well.

Thanks for that noylj. I have shot some 200gr LSWC's and 230gr RN with the "blue Chinese crayon" lube and had a bit of leading. I tumbled lubed some in Lee Alox to see if that would help and it solved the issue. It is a bit smoky and has a noticeable odor, but it worked well. I was needing to order some more LSWC's and had seen references to both red and blue lube and many seemed to prefer the red so I was just curious. I did order some more LSWC's from a different manufacturer than I had been using and have no idea what they will have for lube on them, but I went up to .453" this time rather than the .452" I had been shooting to see how that works out. I shoot them in a couple of different pistols so I'm looking for a happy medium that suits both of them. While the Alox works fine, I shoot mostly at an indoor range and try to be a good neighbor as far as generating as little smoke as possible. I shoot a lot of Hi-Tech coated bullets for that reason, which hardly smoke at all, but i like to shoot lead as well. Thanks!

Slippage on the handle? I would guess that either that bench the press is mounted to is moving around on the up stroke of the handle, or you are just not completing the up stroke completely and firmly enough.

Should have been the first step prior to posting!

Turn the bolt over and tighten it until the head is pulled up flush.

Thanks for the info!

In regard to 200gr LSWC, is there a preference between the blue or the red lube? If Red, which brand comes with it? Thanks!

"Our TNJ bullets are inherently accurate, and cycle fluidly through semiautomatics. As an added benefit, TNJ bullets eliminate hard-to-remove copper and lead fouling to keep your pistol performing at its best. " That could mean that they do not leave copper or lead deposits, not that they remove it.

I would. That way you can move it around on your bench to find a spot where you are most comfortable without hitting or rubbing either arm on anything when operating it. I'd say at least 18" of space on either side of it.