johnbu

Just got a new lim pro home. Compared to my new s2, it has WAAAAAY more agressive checkering. Which I like. It also racks way smoother than the s2 did. The LP has from the factory a one piece sear, extended FPB and two wing interruptor where the S2 didn't. Wierd. The inside of holes on the LP are also MUCH rougher than the S2. The firing pin channel is especially rough and catchy. Gave it a real quick detail strip and superficial polish. Plunger is still rough, however. Assembled with the plunger spring 2 coils cut. Changed to a 14# hammer spring with 2 coils cut and a fp spring also cut. Many light strikes in sa and most in da. Pencil test showed SA a good bit lower than the S2 in da and da just clearing the barrel. Even a 15# spring pencil tested sa below my s2 da with its full polish and EG parts. I have a xtreme firing pin, titan hammer and xtreme sear on the way, that with complete polishing should get it back on track. (I hope! Lol)

Would stock 2 safeties fit?

Are we still talking about guns here.... or girls we used to date? :confused:

I got 2.97" new s2

Mine do exactly that. Normal behavior was my assumption.

Not from the factory. Just measured two new stock 2's out of the box 11+ da and over 5 sa.

Haven't tried w the tanfo, but my xdm 40 has shot 2500 rounds of 9mm with just a barrel. Using the 40 mags, never bobbled a round. Might not need 9mm mags...

Thanks for all the input, but .... decided on another tanfo.

Oddly, I looked on GB and found two bul storms. Blued slides and neither cone barrel. Dang! Was hoping to score a cheap blaster.

Buy another?, do you have one now, if so, which one? I do like the Stock 3, just wondering about the action. There has to be some internals that are different between the Elite Limited and the the Stock 3. The safety looks different, triggers is a little different. Thinking that heavier looking front end of the stock 3 would be nice with the 10mm cartridge. Limited is SA only, stock 3 is DA/SA. Couple different parts related to that difference. Cosmetic differences with the size / shape of levers.

One piece xtreme sear, titan (or delta) hammer,xtreme guide rod and firing pin along with "light" springs or 13# wolff spring. You can go wild or not. Most of the xtreme parts are only needed to get reliability with the lightest springs for the lightest trigger possible.

I thought the delta was identical to the titan, except for the weight up top. No? How else do they differ? Trying to learn here, as a buddy will most likely be wanting T3's fitted to his titan hammer S2's!

Went through two stock 2's with a new Tanfo owner last weekend. Full detail strip, polish and about every EG part, including thin grips and fiber front post. Went from 10am to 6pm, going slow and showing stuff at every step. One interesting occurrence was with fitting sear to safety with titan hammer. I showed grinding under the safety leg to clear the safety lever "bump", but he ground more of a ramp than an undercut. (Guess I didn't show it well enough ...oops) Thankfully, He did stop as soon as it barely engaged the safety, BUT ... the gun would still fire on SA if pulled hard. Close inspection showed the safety was slightly rotating as the sear safety leg rotated down. Took it apart and did more of an under grind so the leg would press more straight down and not tend to rotate the safety lever when the trigger was pulled hard. After doing that, the safety engaged cleanly and stopped the trigger no matter how forcefully pulled. If that makes sense. Didn't think to take a picture at the time, was just trying to fix the issue. But I thought this might help others attempting to get the one piece sear to correctly engage and work for both DA and SA.

I just tuned a couple S2's for a buddy, with full EG go fast and bling parts doing full polish. da dropped from 11+# to just under 7 and sa from over 4 to just over 3. But that took adding a couple hundred in trigger parts, fp and the same in better grips and sights. I thought a stock xcal was close to a tuned up comp ready S2....? My kid wants a better gun and the xcal out of the box sounds like a better (cost effective) package. But, I've not fondled one.

Does anyone have direct experience shooting both the Xcaliber and the Stock 2 ? Mostly interested in how recoil compares and how flat running.

Thanks, will try that. Did the head and rod, but the hole is rough.

After raising the rear up up uo, mine shoots dead on. Except when mr yankenhammer shoots it fast.

I'm really pretty sure large and small frame barrels don't directly interchange

As the topic says. What is the best technique to polish the inside of those areas in the frame? Thanks!

I think you mean "over travel" screw. Yes?

I would take out the mag release and polish it up some. Not mirror bright, just smooth to ensure there are no catchy edges. With the release out, insert mags (slide off) and look for any rubbing. Mine all drop like grease thru a goose.

Lighter trigger return spring, lighter sear spring, Xtreme "light" hammer spring. Lighter plunger spring. Finer polishing.especially inside the holes for the plunger and hammer spring. Mirror finish the plunger (all parts) and hammer strut.

Good to hear.

Yes, thin screw driver to wiggle the pin up. I turned it upside down and used a large sewing needle first time.

I guess I have steadier hands? Lol. Your way is great, but the bit I used matched the curve of the safety, so it (in my mind) had a benefit. It also literally was a couple dozen light grinds to remove the minimum to just barely get it to clear. Many methods work, many fail. The real key is patience to remove as little as possible, check and repeat many times until it just barely clears. At least that's my opinion!