BitchinCamaro

I'd try it.

Applying copious amounts of hammer now. . That's plan B! I was going to suggest the parts swap next. If the other BCG works, try swapping out just the bolt next, then just extractors if you can. I still have a feeling the feedramp(s) may still be playing a role.

Hit the bolt face parts with a thin lube like WD40 and work it in. See if there is any improvement with feeding. If not, just pull it apart to see if anything is gummed up or binding physically and relube with a proper oil.

Clever, but it would still take foreeeeeeever if you're reloading for volume.

Damn, I have family in the wrong Carolina!

Ugh. This chatter reminds me that I once had a FTF because there was a .40 on top of my 9mms in my mag. No pic, otherwise it would have gotten it's own thread. Moral of that story is to never let your buddy's teenage son load your magazines during a match. I've had to impose a "Thank you, but please don't help me" policy when there are kids and teens spectating. However well intentioned, their actions are alwa...SQUIRREL!?!?!

Federal #8 Target loads Estate 7.5 Heavy game Fiocci 1oz low recoil slugs I'm ~155lbs, 5' 11", enjoy long hikes and my favorite color is green

If it's the only way to get into the game then go for it. My first year of competition was spent with a mildly modified AK that, generally speaking, was good at NONE of the things Finbox listed. I was still consistently in the top 20% of a field of 150 shooters and I had an insane amount of fun trying to break into the top 10. Now I'm using a rifle that excels at all the things Finbox listed, not really competing any closer to the top 10, and probably having slightly less fun because I'm realizing all my "errors" are my own, not my rifle's.Truth.

Thanks for responding here , TK. Is there any chance of chambering an evo Ultralite in .223 Wylde? It was my understanding that the compound layer (according to H&M metal processing) is .006 to .04" deep, and the pigment layer is only 4 microns (~.000415"). I didn't know how big the artifact was in thegunnerd's barrel, but I assumed it was deeper than the "pigment" layer. Another concern was the hardness itself, as abrasive polishing with a swab could potentially change the overall chamber dimension before the hard artifact was completely buffed out. These concerns were mostly instilled by a different barrel maker (using H&M QPQ finishing) that insisted on swapping barrels out before trying to polish it out. It's good to know you'll stand behind the product regardless. Nice shooting, Austin. I wish our course designers would take some tips from that video. Our standard target at 2-400 yards are MGM flashers with 4" or 6" donglers. Shooting tac irons can be...frustrating.

HUH?...WHAT?

Is the brass rubbing off anywhere on the extension or feedramps? Apologies if that's obvious, I was just wondering if you had checked.

I took the Iphone out the other day shooting suppressed rifle and shotgun drills. It suuuuuuuucked. It probably missed half of my 12g shots. It was a fairly windy day and I put the timer in my pocket instead of the shell caddy, so those are probably the main reasons it didn't work as well.

You're going to end up shooting exclusively with the can, and it's gonna be a mental chore to get used to the normal muzzle blast again. This is more of a personal admisson!

Stripping the round isn't a real issue, just something I noticed. One of the incidental benefits of having the ambi upper is that I can see the top round strip and slide into he chamber from the left side of the reciever. Just a nudge from the charging handle is usually all the check I need to make sure everything's gonna go bang after the buzzer. I'm not trying to baby it by any means. It's run hard and put away dirty. I try to clean it before matches and definitely after-it functions 100% regardless. Shooting suppressesed makes things so dirty so quickly though, I may start cleaning more. GmG, I do that out of habit with all my pistol stages regardless of round count. I used to think it was weird, but pretty much everyone I'm squaded with for the day starts doing the same thing one they watch me do it. I put a few magazines of XM193 through yesterday and turned the gas almost off with the can. It still cycled reliably but the overall cycle time was noticeably longer than unsuppressed with XM193. I get the sensation that the gas is bleeding into the gas tube instead of freely blasting into it. I don't think the buffer is bottoming out, but it's either moving slower or traveling further than when the gas block is tuned for shooting without the can. I like it- it's like a sewing machine in action insteas of the soft "snap" of before, but part of that perceptikn is due to the fact that I'm not losing half my senses with the concussion of a compensator.

Nice. I love my seekins lower, I just wish they made a slickside upper. A FA is dead weight to me.

Crap! Are you shooting w/optics? Did you try anything past 175?

I deprime on a $20 Lee C press so the bulk of the dirt and primer fouling doesn't get into the ram of my "good" Lee Challenger O press. I also run an oil bath around the ram of all my presses with Mobil 1. It keeps things running smooth and lets me wipe away contaminants before the wear at the bore of the press...I hope.

After reading this I realize that I almost always pin the trigger when sighting in slugs at the range, and never ever do it during a match because I've never thought to.

Just got back from the range- tried bill drills and transitions from my normal stance: By the end of the Bill drill I was weighted totally on my rear foot. My, front foot basically had zero weigh on it and I noticed my muzzle was rising and not settling between shots. Six more shots and I would have had to of taken a step backwards. My ghetto Iphone shot timer wasn't working great today, but it seemed like the fastest I could cleanly run the shotgun between horizontal target strings a yard apart was about .8. Any faster and I was losing the sight and getting all twisted around again. Part of the problem was getting the gun mounted from low ready. I was wearing a heavy jacket due to bad weather, so my first shot wasn't always optimal. I tried just blading my stance more, but I'm not quite as square to the target as I thought I was. What eventually helped the most was my weight distribution at start. I tried locking out my rear knee and having my center of gravity fall straight behind my front knee. I thought I was low enough before, but I really got down so the mag tube touched the ground a few feet in front of my weak foot. The axis of the shotgun was over that left foot too, and I double checked to make sure I would never muzzle sweep it. It looked like I was about to sprint 100M, and it felt like I was trying to brace myself against a door. Like position ii, but with a comically long shotgun. The results were mixed. Because the new stance got my torso more "in line" behind the stock of the gun, I guess more of my upper body and spine took the recoil down to my feet. It also sort of locked out my arms, so transitioning from the hips was mandatory. There was definitely more vertical control of the muzzle this way. Horizontal control was ... different, but I can see how with practice that this is gonna work out a lot better. I just need to work on moving my body around smooth like a tank turret instead of snapping it around with my eyes. The downside is that now my face is in a position where the apex of the stock pushes directly against the underside of my cheekbone. Were before I guess I was absorbing recoil with my shoulder, and my face was slightly to the side of the stock, in the new stance the stock is moving the stock straight into my face. It feels like an 8 year old is punching me under the eye each time I pull the trigger- manageable, but certainly less pleasant than before.

My Mossbergs have Signed QC papers by the person that test-fired it. I wouldn't really care if they didn't. Though I understand that few scratches may be a red flag to you, if you had the opportunity I think you should have stuck to your original plan and actually shot both to decide which works best for you. You're going to find out in short order that 3gun makes your guns ugly if you're doing it right.

Some people have added the Nordic extended bolt release button to their JMPros. I did. Note: the factory bolt release metal is VERY HARD. Even after chewing up several cobalt bits to finally make a hole, the tap that was included with the button was ground smooth by the metal, and a Ti-Ni tap I bought to replace it got chewed up similarly in short order. The "trick" is to get it mounted in a vice, off the gun, and make the initial attempt at drilling with a perfectly parallel surface. I know that's basic shop 101 advice, but the shape of the button assembly makes it hard to get flat off a vice, and the knurling on the button becomes a bit-destroyer if you don't get the bit to bite perpendicular the first time. Coblat bits minimum, HSS isn't gonna cut it. I ended up with an OS hole in the button, filled it with silver solder, then drilled and tapped that. HUGE PITA, but it's worth it if you have small hands. The button is more like a lever- works great.

Maybe the plunger is missing from in front of the hammer spring? There are a few threads on here that have detailed disassembled trigger groups. I'll try to find a pic.

http://www.ruger.com/SR556VTRecall/index.html

I'm tempted by the VooDoo Barrel because I've suddenly become a weight weenie. If long range accuracy isn't going to be an issue, then dropping a pound from my current setup with a barrel swap seems so alluring. My concern is if there is any POI shift after the skinny barrel heats up. Generally, the long range stuff at the local matches here is engaged after 5-12 closer paper targets. I'm interested to see if you guys notice a POI shift after about 20 or so hoser shots My current barrel is heavier than medium weight, ~.8" to the .75" gas block, then .72" to the muzzle. It's somewhere around 2.4lbs. I really like the .223 Wylde chamber of my current barrel though. It shoots great at all distances, but I'm wondering if I'm carrying around dead weight on the forward end of the gun. Reprofiling isn't really an option as it's QBQ treated and I don't think I can turn it without introducing a ton of stress into the barrel.

Like .02, or more like .07"? If you flip the assembly upside down on a table or bench, and put plenty of pressure on the trigger guard/grip area, are the holes in the thousandths range or still in hundredths? is the interference in the buffer area still in the range of thousandths? If it is, instead of filing or sandpaper, you may want to lap them together with a fine borepaste. Lube the front pin with plenty of oil, smear the interfering surfaces with JB or Iosso paste, and just pac-man the upper and lower receivers together a few hundred times until those surfaces mate perfectly. If the interference in those surfaces (just at those surfaces, not at the takedown pin misalignment) is much more than a few thou though, you may need heavier duty solutions.