BitchinCamaro

Poof! All gone.

In case anyone was looking. http://www.brownells.com/reloading/powder/rifle-powder/hodgdon-powder-h4350-hodgdon-powder-h4350-8-lbs-sku749008040-34642-71189.aspx

I just saw this on Reddit, I figured the pistol shooters on BE would appreciate. https://www.reddit.com/r/mildlyinteresting/comments/6gjufh/my_friend_found_a_bullet_in_an_avocado_that_she/

I just did this yesterday! The GF's 20 year old subaru looked like it had cataracts and was a danger to drive at night. The $10 cheap harbor freight kit in the bag has since been replaced with a $14 kit in a plastic clamshell. It's an awesome deal as the drill adapter has velcro instead of adhesive pads and there are enough pads to do a dozen headlights or so. I've used the 3m kit, the turtlewax kit, the Cheap Harbor freight kit (in a bag) and the $14 Harbor Freight kit. I've had the best results with the latest kit on a drill, but they all work reasonably well. For lasting results, seal up the lens with this suff: It more or less melts the outer layer of polycarbonate and seals it with a UV protectant. Once it dries/cures it's hard to tell that I just went to town on them with a drill. I reapply once a month and so far it's keeping the desert sun at bay. Without sealing they cloud back up in about 2 months. An old VW trick is to use 50SPF sunscreen, but your mileage may vary.

Well...shit. I DQed 40 seconds into the match. Interestingly enough, the pro/sponsored teams largely elected to not spin it with slugs and double tagged it with birdshot this year.

New year, new shotgun spinner tomorrow. 53 yards, 30 second slug bonus. 60 second failure to spin penalty. It's an option in the middle of a slug array, (after a rifle string and before another array of KOs and flipper clays). I'm just posting here to keep myself accountable. I had planned to Prairie Storm it at 20 yards (where the shotgun dump barrel is) but I think I'll hold that as backup. Dude building the stage with me yesterday basically told me to sack up and do the math. What's the point of making a 3 page post on the internet about it if I can't take good advice? I'm off to the range to get my slug holds dialed. I'll let y'all know how it goes.

Lily Allen's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWjNFC-FinU&list=RDEMl2CigTUotY-5ZfJ4OkyM9w&index=5Youtube/Venmo playlist. Any shooter with a daughter owes themselves to listen to this. It's like a sparknotes for you.

I kind of like the stock Tikka as is for hunting, so if I really wanted to build off a Tikka action, I would just buy a used Tikka. It sort of goes back to my reasoning as to why the PTG receivers were such a great deal. I'm currently in my own PTG customer service black hole at the moment. I think they make some great products, but their shipping and inventory systems are a nightmare. I've reached that point of calling every day for the past week to rectify their parts mistake, and while everyone's been friendly, it's pretty clear that they can't get act together.

I'm pretty sure this qualifies you as a "Loadmaster Guru".

Keep it simple. Start out with a steel at 100, shoot twice standing, transition to 2 shots kneeling, transition to 2 shots prone. Take it out to 200, and even further. Then start shaving those seconds off the par time .

For me, no dust was key. The superior finish was icing on the cake!

Wow. I thought 9 weeks was bad. I ordered my parts on the 29th, which included tools and off the shelf items. I received my parts today. Between now and the 29th, I received an "order is processing" email and 3 more random purchase orders. Everything was packed great, and the bottom metal looks like it was a solid buy for Black Friday. The PTG-made parts had a separate invoice in duplicate, so the box was stuffed with a total of 4 duplicate invoices. They messed up my magazine order and sent me the wrong parts. None of the parts have barcodes or inventory SKUs. Hopefully getting the right magazines won't be an issue, but it's still a PITA. It's clear from the crazy Email system, invoices, and lack of inventory checks that they need to hire a logistics shipping consultant. None of this really pertains to the quality of their blueprinted receivers, but if ,like me, Amazon Prime is your new normal then you're not going to enjoy the experience.

First, I'm in a different time zone. Second, like...Dude. Sticks are like tree bones . Leaving out identical acceleration was intentional. I didn't want to tip my hand, but this is fundamentally what I was getting at. I was poking through some of my old Physics textbooks and was just wondering under what circumstances a projectile deviates from the standard equation set for uniformly accelerated (Non Hamiltonian) motion, and where the window was for introducing deviations from expected trajectories. Load density was another consideration, Mr. Kelley, for both reasons of dwell time at the chamber end and perhaps any resulting turbulance at the other end. Deformation of the bullet as the bullet entered the rifling was also a consideration. To clarify, this question isn't necessarily about absolute accuracy or long range stability (though both are corollary). It's just an attempt to discern any inherent differences between cartridges punting the same caliber bullet.

I have used 2 Hornady drops with Varget- non Benchrest meters. One worked fine with normal variance given the stick size. The second one "chopped" powder more than 75% of the time. I didn't see any obvious differences between the barrels or the inserts, but I ended up returning the second one.

Calibers are the same. Cartridge is different. Edit: I think we caught that at the exact same time. The same conditions can be applied to any 2 cartridges of the same caliber loaded to equal muzzle velocity. Let's say it's 6.5 Creedmoor and 6.5x47 Lapua. .308 and .30-06 are ideal because there has already been whole generations worth of debate and conjecture over the merits of one over the other. There's so much guntalk about the "inherent accuracy" of particular cartridges lately. For personal clarification I'm just wondering how variables other than velocity can contribute to trajectory (all other considerations being ideally equal) , namely chamber dimensions. Once that's established, then the infinitely perfect parameters can begin to be peeled away to begin to consider introduced disparities like barrel harmonics and dwell times. But for the sake of this thread, I still wanted to maintain impossibly perfect conditions to see if I'm missing something. it's a long winded way of asking "is this a stupid question?"

Please move if this belongs somewhere else, but I figured PRS is currently the hotbed of caliber discussion so I posted it here. Take 2 cartridges of the same caliber (for example, .308 and .30-06). Then make 2 absolutely identical barrel blanks with relatively infinite diameters and perfect internal metallurgical properties. Think big, like a 20 mile diameter barrel. Also, these barrels have literally laser straight bores and rifling that maintains twist and land/groove dimensions with electron-scale resolution. Each perfect barrel is chambered perfectly cocentric to their respective cartridge, with the jump to lands being identical for both. The bullets are perfectly identical in mass and dimension down to the atom. Primer charge compound is measured to the molecule and ignited by induction...perfectly. You get the point. Now, assuming that these perfect bullets are fired at identical velocities in perfectly identical conditions in space and time, at what distance would there be enough difference (qualified broadly) in groupings to discern between cartridges?

I've since graduated to other progressives, but I churned out upwards of 30k pieces of 9mm on a Lee Loadmaster and I still keep it around for backup. I'm no guru, but I stuck with the Loadmaster for a long time. If you want to have smooth high-volume reloading sessions, I suggest giving up on the priming system altogether. I tried every shim/lube/sand/reprofiIe/angle trick suggested on the internet and I was never happy until I just ditched it altogether. I don't know if I last used the 3d or 4th generation primer system, but I do remember that time spent hand-priming your brass beforehand puts you waaaay ahead in rounds per session than having the press constantly jam up and interrupting your rhythm. Plus, you don't waste primers. I wet tumble, so pistol brass is deprimed anyway. Hand priming really isn't that much trouble and it's a good time to visually inspect your brass for cracks and cull crimped primer pockets, which are the death knell for the Loadmaster. Again, the extra time is getting put towards actually reloading, not diagnosing a jammed up primer system. As for parts: *Get an extra length of ball-chain for the powder drop. They will eventually break from stress or it will somehow get bound up on the downstroke and snap. Having an extra on hand makes for a quick-fix instead of a show-stopper. *Better yet, upgrade to a Hornady case activated powder drop- especially if you're using fine ball powders (the Lee drop is acceptable though). The Lee system adds a lot of the hurky-jerky feel to the operation and because of the design it doesn't hold much powder. *The optional bullet feeder mechanism will wear out and break. It's still a worthwhile part, as you can manually push/pull the bullet shuttle and it will still save time. *Blue loctite or teflon tape for the turret thumb screw. It will back out without you realizing it and mess with your COAL. *Oil can- I always had the ram sitting in a bath of oil on the top ram body so it was constantly lubed and flushing out dirt from the ram/press interface. Wipe up when you're done. *Get one of those little "L" shaped phillips head screwdrivers from IKEA, it makes it easy to loosen/tighten the case retainers (when you take apart the press to excavate a jammed primer). *A nice little luxury is a RCBS die locknut wrench. The real-estate on the turret is tight, and sometimes you have to get creative to fit a wrench between dies. Again, most importantly, and I cannot stress this enough- give up on the primer system. Sure, give it a few gos and see if you got the magic Lee unicorn. But don't go down that dead thinking you can "make it better". The whole point of going progressive is efficiency, and your round per minute will go negative trying to constantly un-jam a Loadmaster filled with primers.

My bench is in an unattached garage so there is no water or forced heating. The bench top is raw steel and the garage floor is bare concrete slab. The hillbilly garage wiring (not done by me) is definitely "weird" according to the electrician, but not dangerous. I can reach some conduit through the wall and ground the table to that. That conduit runs underground to the service box at the house. I'm fairly sure that whole loop is grounded but I'll check with the ground fault tester. There is also a huge Dewalt hammer drill sitting in the garage, so it's just as easy for me to poke a hole in the floor and jam a foot of rebar into the dirt to act as a grounding rod. With the questionable wiring, it may just be the better/faster route. Humidifying may be an option, but I already have a bias against reloading on rainy days to minimize introducing any humidity into my reloads. It's just a consistency thing. I try to keep my primers and powder at the same potential as the bench. They're usually in steel cabinets mounted on the benchtop . Sometimes I'll kick off a shoe and experiment by holding the press and touching my foot to the floor. I think I'll try the suggestion of grounding the stool to the bench (that's grounding to a rod or conduit) . I looked at the ESD straps before I posted, but I'm already bad at knocking stuff over on the bench with two free hands. Tethering my wrist with a ground would just be a hot mess.

9x45, I usually do, but static general static buildup is an issue- especially with fine powders in the powder drop. Chuckols, no offense taken. I didn't really think that the steel top itself was a source of concern. If anything, I thought it might make it easier to lower the electrical potential. I used to live in the Southeast too and I only felt static electricity at the beginning of a summer rainstorm or after rubbing my feet across the carpet as a kid. Now I live at 6000 feet of altitude and I have to drink a half a gallon of water by noon just to keep my nose from bleeding. When I crawl into bed at night, it looks like a mini-thunderstorm of sparks from the static discharge between the sheets and mattress. The static here is unreal. Though I've not confirmed it, I'm pretty sure I could get a static discharge off of a wooden benchtop too. That's why I thought grounding it would be taking away the primary source of ignition. Plus, pulling on a press bolted to a solid 400lb steel plate is just dandy .

Is it just me, or has the advent of the cheap SS tumbler started a pissing contest over who can get the shiniest brass? There is an old timer in town who ditched his 5 or 6 vibratory tumbler/media bookshelf for a SS tumbler after I showed him how fast I ran eleventy billion pieces of 9mm in tap water and lemishine in a Frankford Arsenal drum. Now he's like a deranged alchemist trying to find the perfect combination of chemicals for SS cleaning. Of course, he tells me about his findings every chance he gets. He inhaled too much tumbling dust over the years I think.

My bench is made from an old prison door and has rubber wheeled casters on the legs. The stool at the bench is steel. The static buildup is noticeable, especially since Utah practically has negative relative humidity. I've read about grounding reloading tables as a good idea , I've just never seen/considered the best way to do it. Aside from going straight ghetto by wrapping some copper wire around a table leg and jamming the other end into "mouth hole" of an electrical socket, what are the best options? Will a concrete anchor in the floor slab act as an efficient ground, or do I have to get it as deep as a lightning ground? Is it better to ground myself/stool to the floor, or to the grounded table? Does it matter? Does anyone have pics of their ground setup?

Does anyone use ground straps from their bench to the floor or electrical ground?

Nice. I can almost hear that bolt glide in the action and it makes me second guess not buying one. Do you have any pictures? 9 weeks though. I checked and it sounds like they have a bunch of untouched R700s in stock, and they true and match bolts to them per order instead of keeping blueprinted actions in stock. Threads are "cleaned up" on a lathe, but not necessarily cut oversize. Apparently the factory threads leave a lot left to be cut without inducing slop. I put my parts order in last Friday and I got a processing Email yesterday. Hopefully I won't have to wait as long as your FFL transfer. For anyone else thinking about a budget build, Stockys has a Vblock chassis stock for $200. Add a DBM for $120 and you'll have a mag-ready rig for less than half the price of the Xray. So a hypothetical competition build could be at around $1600 (w/o glass or mags), and have easy switch-barrel features.

Ahhh. I didn't think about that. I suspect that they chased them on a tap mandrel instead of taking a recut to the next class. OS threads would probably be listed in the description.