Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

AirForce2

Classified
  • Posts

    102
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About AirForce2

  • Birthday June 29

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Commerce City Colorado
  • Real Name
    Billy Armour

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

AirForce2's Achievements

Looks for Range

Looks for Range (1/11)

  1. Hello sir, you tried to warn me of versa max comp and so far you are right. Third exchange for versa coming up next week. First one cycled beautifully and soft. Sights were way off 10” by 10” at 40 yards. Exchanged for another new one and jam-o-matic. Exchanged again and waiting for it to arrive. I should have sent first one to Remington and if they couldn’t fix it they would have put new barrel. Once I get a good one, am sending it to Triangle shooting sports.

  2. I to have a cz accu shadow and since my olden days of shooting mostly 1911 barrels, was concerned that the sized case rim was above the hood thought this might be an issue only because I had problem with long ogive bullets loaded such as Montana gold hollow point OAL of 1.115 or longer would not drop in/out of my chamber. I now know the cz accu barrel case rims "will" sit above the hood by appx 3/4 of the rim above the hood and this is ok. The hood doesn't fit the slide cut the same way a 1911 does. If you have issues loading hollow point bullets long, it's not the chamber that needs to be cut (mine was in spec). You will need to cut the "rifling" for longer hollow points, not the chamber. This is what I found out with my orig & replacement cz accu shadow barrel. I know because I thought I ordered a reamer that cut the rifling and it cut the chamber and "F'd" up my barrel. The top of the cz slide had a portion that sticks out at the top where a 1911 slide cut is recessed, hence the cz barrel hood is cut more forward and the 1911 barrel is flush w/rim for this reason. Hope this helps. AirForce2
  3. https://www.czub.cz/en/catalog/370-pistols/PM3A/1081-0011.aspx That's for sp-01. They also have a 75/85 version as well as a TS version Tks, what does "SW" stand for? I think "TS" is tactical sport? Any reason to think this site would be any less sturdy than the comp hajo I have now? I might call them and check on a price. Tks for the lead.
  4. Does anyone know a good options (other than cz) for "fully" click adjustable up/down & click adjustable left/right rear sight that is durable and fits (drop in so to speak) the cz accu shadow without having to cut or modify the cut that currently is for the competition hajo sight I have now? I'm tired of hammering my rear sight left/right. Some loads shoot different and would like ability to click adjust vs this hammering or guessing if the sight pusher pushed enough or to much.
  5. Let me summarize items in my opinion that fall into categories of needed to fix or I think help function, speed, accuracy, or cosmetic. -shell stop--had to polish and contour forward most corners and section that ride agains shells so loading shells wasn't a strain and smoother. Also polished rear portion of shell stop towards stock that tilt inwards into the receiver in case that was causing minor bolt catch point during cycling. I did not increase the U shaped cuts 1/3 from front of shell stop, only slight polishing of the in & outside of the grooves to remove sharp edges. The U cuts allow the shell stop a flex point during loading and cycling so be careful, it is a point where the shell stop could & will likely crack/fail. -barrel--flex hone the forcing cone at the 3-5 inch section from rear of the barrel rough edges to reduce excessive lead fouling buildup from pellets & slugs & may increase accuracy. --polish & slight chamfer the barrel /shell entry & extractor groove to help with shells that may jam on the sharp edges --slug testing to find a slug that would print reasonably well ie...3-5 inch group w/open sights at 100 yds (or just front sight if you prefer) My versa comp likes fiochi 3/4 & 1oz & dislikes rio & federal truball slugs. If you can't print a sub 6 inch at 100 yds with your slugs with open sights, either something is wrong with you, your platform, your ammo, choke, sights, or combination. -lifter--It was like a bear trap and had to be extended. I actually don't understand why all shotgun lifters are not built like the Crums or 3 gun modded one already? A must for safe, fast, pain free loading. -stock--Reduced the stock and replaced recoild pad w/limbsaver low profile pad for appx 13 inch LOP. I prefer a more snug, shorter length of pull which I think shorter arm, stocky build guys/gals would like & it helped me in shouldering the gun smoother and faster. I would like to see a less "sticky" type of rubber on the rear of recoild pad to slide the pad onto the shoulder, but few exist that are less than 1 inch thick. -stippled grip areas of the stock & foregrip. A very functional grippy addition and if you want the best looks & feel, use a sharp pointed soldering iron tip. Painstaking 2-3 hrs of work, but fantastic grip and looks. Just have to sand down after solder stipple to remove rough edges. The rubber grips on the versa are crap. -contour the rear bottom & sides so the foregrip tappers down to almost nothing for smoother dual and quad loads or combo of cutting off sections, but still file/contour the foregrip rear portions so your hand slides over the foregrip smoothly during reloads. -other areas inside the chamber & gun were polished for smooth functioning on all sharp edges. -Carbon Arms, Match Saver, or home made single round carrier mounted on the side of rear portion of foregrip to hold 1 or 2 shells for running dry and needed 1 more round to load into empty chamber vs fishing for one off your belt holder. -Front & rear sights--There are options if you like an adj rear and taller or skinnier front w/fiber optics or can use the ones on the gun are ok. Suggest clear epoxy over/around the fiber optics so they don't break and fall right out. Also have heard & seen some use pistol rear sights. -Carbon Arms tube extensions +2 thru + 6. They are lightweight and not carbon -Open up the sides & front loading port area. It's ok from the factory, but far from ideal. I also suggest grinding down, then polishing the section just forward of the trigger guard of the trigger assy to create a funnel area that allows dual/quad load shells to lay flatter as you feed into the tube. Keep the same angle on the front load port area and push it forward just shy of the steel tube. -polish down the 10, 2, 4, 8 o'clock sections of the shell loading tube where it connects to the receiver section so the shells are not jumping the little humps feeding from tube onto the lifter and for loading shells smoother. -Nordic spring--Nordics seem much stiffer than most factory shell tube springs, so I think 14 inches past the end of your tube end is more than enough and excessive unless you need the extra oooomph because the gun runs rough and not smooth.
  6. If your just wanting a shooting gun it may be just 30 min and if you've worked on shotguns a lot maybe only a few hours extra. My gun has had many, many hours into it, but that's because I've only worked on 2 shotguns ever. My shotgun and all the mods listed took 30+ hours of work I'd guess, but a intermediate or gunsmith would take lots less with the knowledge & tools. I did get the benefit of learning how the guns works and some of the fixes mostly on my own which puts risk as well as reward into it and it has lots of time and custom features now of which some were cosmetic and some I know would help with speed, fit, and function. Depends if you want a work of art and a working gun or just a working gun as to how much time or money to put into it. I'd say if I'd paid someone to do all this work I did, it would be $500+ bucks easy and I wouldn't have any knowledge to tweek or fix issues. I feel confident my future versamax guns would be even better and faster if I was to do them again.
  7. I did finally get a manson 9mm throat/rifling reamer and used it on the new accu shadow barrel since my MG HP's at 1.100 were still hitting the rifling on the new barrel. I used a t-handle and honing oil and never using a throating reamer it was kinda confusing since it's hard to initially get it to turn and not sure how much down pressure to use. It felt from the start like it wasn't going to turn or each serration on the cutter was stuck in between each land in the barrel (which it was). I just applied turn force just as the cutter tips engage inside the rifling and it finally got started and it doesn't take much turning w/light to medium down pressure to cut away 40 thousandths. I almost screwed up and cut to much. One thing I sure wish USPSA would do it allow us to use the cz double/single action guns with the hammer in half cock or cocked single action w/safety on. I don't relish dropping the hammer all the way down to start and at the match one of the guys saw that I was starting with my accu shadow hammer in half cock (more like 1/4 cocked if you ask me) and I also engage the safety to start and he protested to the match director. I explained I wasn't trying to gain anything, just don't like letting the hammer fall onto the firing pin (which does touch the back of the primer w/ext firing pin I think) and I'm still drawing and flipping off the safety, but the rule states "external hammers must start in down position". I don't understand this rule and why it exists? Is it to keep 1911's out of production class? I'm sure there are several striker fire guns w/light triggers, but don't have to start in "double action" mode.
  8. So I shot my first major matchs in 15 years in CO, Rocky Mtn 300 and a few weeks later the Mile High Showdown. I shot 3 local matches total the past 15 months (mainly just to get super classifier and couple other classifier stages) after a cold stop to shooting for 15 years leading up to these and practiced just stand and shoot and maybe 2 hrs total over the past year of dry firing, drawing from holster and getting used to the double action first shot, did some sight in and stand and shoot at the local range. This was my first bigger match in production class, minor which also didn't exist or was new back when I stopped shooting in 2000. I came in 10 out of 28 production and 4th of 8 B class in Rky Mtn 300 and slow safe and out of 350 rds (60 rd stages) had no penalties or no shoots or misses except for some steel. I shot the Mile high showdown and came in 4th of 11 B class production, 10th out of 40 production and 55th out of 140 (all classes combined). I had 4 bad stages out of 12 but I was able to shoot faster & normal, so I can't complain with as little practice I've done. If you need some 10 rd mags for production and prefer mecgar mags over cz mags, order the 10 rd mecgars w/plastic base pads $31 (same price as 17 or 19 rdr's and use a pointed hard grinding bit and grind out the dimples on each side of the mecgar that limit the follower from going down past holding 10 rds (I say grind because my titanium drill bits don't do it), this leaves appx 1/4 inch holes, then use small polishing bits to go thru the hole and polish the inside/outside rough edges and poof, you'll have 17 rd mecgars to use or 10 rd's. They all functioned fine after. The follower & springs and mag bodies are just 17 rd mecgars with dimples to limit the follower from going past 10. The only thing that bugs me on the sights and maybe it's this way with all accu shadows is if I sight in dead on at say 12 yards for elevation, the bullets 124 MG at 1050 fps seem to hit high for my taste at 25 yds. Not sure if the old STI Edge .40 I use to shoot had lower front & rear sights so I didn't seem to notice this as much or it's just me, but wonder if the front and rear accu sights are just higher that causes this, similar to shooting with a scoped AR, the close shots will shoot low when sighted in at 100 yds due to distance between center bore & scope LOS. I also have the "Fisher Sight Pusher Tool" and still unable to get my gun to shoot straight. The rear sight does not have a set screw, and using the sight push tool or just peening with a punch, I still have issues getting the gun to shoot straight. It's either a little left or a little right as if there's a hump and the rear sight either goes just left or right of center, so my grouping at 25 yds is always a little left or right of center, which does annoy me. It's picky, but that's me. I did screw up my accu shadow barrel a few weeks ago by ordering a "finishing" reamer to cut the rifling properly on my orig barrel and this was not the right tool for "throating" the rifling to allow for longer hollowpoint loads like MG bullets. By the time I found out, I'd cut the chamber longer and this caused me to lose appx 50 fps on my match loads (985 fps vs 1040 fps on prev loaded & chrono'd loads w/3.8 TG powder, 1.090 oal, MG 124's) and also got some extra charring on my brass casings which told me I'd messed up the headspace I believe it's called. I've since told CZ Custom of my mistake and installed a new barrel and used a "throating reamer" from manson to cut the rifling on the new barrel so I can load MG bullets out to 1.140 no problem. Oh, the new barrel also would not plunk test a MG 124 HP at 1.110 oal. I will test the 50 yd grouping (maybe 100 yd) since the close range at my house only has 25 or 100 yd and post groups. I also thought my CZ Accu Shadow orig had a "fitted" match grade barrel and was going to have to send the whole gun back to have CZ install/fit a custom barrel, but when I ordered the new replacement barrel was told I had a normal shadow barrel and it would just drop in, which it did. I was also dumb, thinking like a 1911 barrel that a proper loaded/sized bullet when dropped into a cz barrel, the rim should be flush with the rear most hood on a cz barrel which seems not the case with cz. The orig cz barrel plunk test has almost the whole rim sticking up past the hood of the cz barrel, unlike most 1911's the rim would likely be flush to rear most hood. The new barrel is the same way. The CZ hood of barrel is more recessed that a 1911 and the barrel hood goes into a recess are back under the cz slide vs flush visibly as viewed from top of 1911. I'm not dogging the accu shadow, just telling my observations and helping to keep other from making my mistakes and helpful info to some.
  9. Well, the versa comp shot appx 230 rounds and zero gun malfunctions of any sort at the Shooters Source Shotgun Challenge. I had a plenty myself and should have shot a few local shotgun stages in the last year which hurt my scores a lot, but at least my equipment could not be blamed for anything.
  10. Disassembled & Cleaned the entire gun including bolt, pistons etc. Shooting the other day and 50 rds of RIO 1200 fps, 7.5 or 8 shot blue box stuff and had 4 or 5 jams because the empty shell did not extract but halfway or didn't come out of the chamber at all & also caused ensuing feed jams. This was odd since I've not had any extraction related jams at all. Looked at the shells and noticed a pronounced hump right at the brass rim (where the extractor would hook & about as long as the rotating extractor groove area in the barrel. I haven't done any work to this area of chamber since initial "opening up the chamber & smoothing the extractor cutout in the barrel months ago". I think the brass blowing out by the extractor cut was causing the extractor to come off. I fired 75 rds the next day of herters 1050 fps 1oz low recoil, some hert's 1 1/8 oz 1200 & 1250 fps, & some hert's 1200 fps 1 1/4 oz spreader loads & 8 low recoil slugs the next day and no jams. The bulge on the herters ammo was much less that the RIO stuff. Lesson learned (don't polish the chamber edge inside around the extractor cut to much or the weaker brass or high power stuff could bulge & cause extractor to let go). My versa comp still prints quite poorly with slugs w/group appx 10-12 inches at 100 & even at 25 yds can tell the fliers not really left or right, up/down etc. I've now come to the best guess that it's looseness/or fit in the whole barrel, foregrip, receiver tightness section causing the repeatability issues. I have the gun really tight and multiple brands of slugs and LM & IC cyl chokes, honed forcing cone (again) no worse or better. Some rounds hit where they should and others just fly. I put on the spare versa sportsmans foregrip on and it fits much different & tighter than my comp model foregrip. I'm running both springs behind the shell stop, 11 inch past tube end w/Nordic spring. In short the gun seems to be malfunction free for past 125 rds of Herters & Win ammo and only had issues with the RIO and was extraction related. For those that want opt for locking case I've attached pics Have any versa owners fixed grouping issues by tightening up fit of items forward of the receiver? The guys at Remington told me a versa max sportsmans foregrip would fit the versa comp model. I'm on squad 6 B. Armour & CZ Shirt at the Shooters Shotgun Challenge, see ya there & good luck. Update: I put on the new foregrip sportsmans model which does fit much snugger. Spent last night recontouring the grip for load 2/4's, redrilled for the Carbon Arms oh shit ran it dry and need one more shot shell carrier. The foregrip that came on my versa comp has a lot of play but seems didn't impact accuracy as long as the tube nut is tight, gun just hates certain slugs. At 100 yds with Rio low recoil slugs still got a 12 inch group (6 inches left & 6 inches right of center target w/few center) w/LM briley ext choke. Fed truball low recoil & herters 1400 fps no gain either & prev no noticeable help using a flush rem LM or tru bore IC ext choke that came with versa. I double checked myself by shooting a 7 inch or so group from my CZ Accu Shadow at 100 yds. I had just got in from midway some of the fiochi 1oz, 1200 slugs that seem popular, low recoil (yellow box) and some fiochi 7/8 oz low recoil, 1250-1300 fps slugs and expected no real change. The fiochi's "AAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHH" those and poof, 4-5 inch group instantly. Guess my versa just dislikes the cheaper easy to get stuff. Kinda stinks, cause I've struggled to find any fiochi low recoil slugs locally, but at least I have confidence the gun can shoot slugs. I also took the opportunity to swap out the Rem hammer & extractor for benelli parts before shooting today. Swapping the extractor was a pain in the a_ _, because the hole to knock the pin out seems good but the pin from ones side was off set in the hole and could only be driven out one direction and seemed offset in the hole on that side and the bottom side was easy to drive the pin in, but driving the small roll pin out the other side was a pain due to the guide hole didn't match the pin coming thru and had to use a small punch on the pin edge to drive it back out. I shot another mixed bag of 70 shells today and still no malfunctions.
  11. Well, I was wrong again. Took out the screw that adjusts elevation and lifted up the sight blade hinge and there is no spots for or any set screw, sight is just really hard to move left/right so gotta order a sight adj tool. Takes way to much of a hit to move it with a punch and risk moving it to far, then hammering back and forth. I need to spring for a fully adjustable one at some point. What is a good durable fully adj elev & windage sight for the CZ accu shadow that you guys think is most durable nowadays. That fits the CZ accu shadow cut.
  12. I fired 60 RDS of 1oz- 1 1/8 oz 1050 fps thru 1200 fps stuff w/40 RDS being lower recoil & 10 low recoil slugs and both springs behind the shell stop wed and no jams. I also had the Nordic tube spring in cut 11 inches past the tube end. I will do another 50-60 rds on Mon. I did not change lifter height although I think its a little high. I won't be able to mod/test the spare trig asst/lifter until later next week and using orig one for now
  13. just found out my sight above is the Competition Hajo and there are set screws under my sight once remove the height screw. No wonder it was so hard to move the unit for windage. We'll see.
  14. You need to try slowish hand cycling w dummy rounds if not able to range duplicate & inspect (not the all alum red ones) and see if you can make it jam the same. I've found I can slow cycle dummies and get it to happen. I highly doubt a 12 inch Nordic spg past the tube is your issue nor mine, nor is my recoil stock spring the issue for I have plenty of ooomph there was tested. When it jams is the bolt all way open/back and shell flat/level on rear of lifter or shell pointed up towards chamber. With the smaller inner shell stop spring out of the gun, I shot 50 ea of herters low recoil #8 at 1050 fps and win low recoil 50 ea at 1100 fps the other day and some 7.5's at 1200 fps w/10 inch past tube rem fact shell tube spg. I will run again tomorrow again w/both shell stop springs in, same loads and see. I'm still toying w/lifter height later tonight to see if any diff during hand cycle and will test tomorrow as well. I think my rear shell stop was Not going into the receiver out of the way enough and shaved a little off rear most flat of shell stop that swings into receiver groove also. The only reason i did this is because each time it jams hand cycle, pushing the bolt release cleared it vs pushing up lifter or forward or boltIt does catch less during hand cycle now and will see if lifter raise helps. Update: I messed with both of my trigger assy's tonight (have 2 identical w/C-rums extd lifters). I tried using strips of electrical tape on the front most ledge on trigger assy's under the rearmost portion of the lifter and had little to no noticeable gain in functioning and got up to 3 strips of tape stacked (appx .020 to .025 inches thick. One thing that was noticeable was the extra lifter height made the shells not kick rearward on the lifter and left a 3/4 inch gap between rear of dummy round to the rear of the lifter compared to before. I also seemed to have more pressure pulling the bolt rearward to eject from chamber when a shell was on the lifter. I'm kinda perplexed. My bolt almost won't catch at all riding slow with no shells in the gun, but with dummies, I can still feel the catch point just as bolt goes forward (as if the extra weight of a shell & lifter causes more of a catch feel and it always goes forward by pushing the bolt release. I may take one of my spare lifter/trig assy's and try to build up the ledge under rear of lifter to see if it helps, but for now I'm not feeling it. I polished off rear face of shell stop so it seats easier into the receiver, polished the front to back side bottom face of bolt that activates the lifter, and changed lifter height and still don't feel like I've got it licked with both springs in the shell stop.
  15. These pics may not do it justice, but took down the side rear corners and recut the rear notch and attached pics. There is more light on either side than me holding a cell and centering the sight shows. I'll try it and see.
×
×
  • Create New...