Flash74

I just got my email. The check is going, out tomorrow. I cant wait.

Everyone makes mistakes. The difference between a good and bad company is how they handle their mistakes. Did you even give them a chance to make it right? Huffin and puffin and taking the ball home is never the right approach.

tiger49931, I hope you don't mind, but I would like to add to your question. Besides accuracy between lube groove/non lube groove, does the powder charge have to be increased to achieve the same velocity since there is more bearing surface?

rowdyb, it looks like you need to tighten your belt. There shouldn't be that much up and down movement when running. The CR belt is stiff enough to hold up your equipment even if it is loose. I bet that you probably don't need a belt to keep your pants up in general. When I was younger and had a butt, I rarely wore a belt. Now that I am older and fat with no butt, a tight belt is a must to keep my pants up. I have a lot more to jiggle than you do and my equipment for not bounce like yours. I think it's because I have to keep my belt tight or give everyone a show they don't want to see.

Yes, I would start with the official stages. By outlaw I mean that the club would not be sanctioned. If there is enough interest then we would look into becoming sanctioned.

U-die, I have had no issues with Glocked brass. My seating die aligns the bullet before it seats so I have had no issues with crooked bullets.

I am one of the lonely who voted CCI as softer. I had some issues with a few Winchester primers not going off and just assumed they were harder. They were definitely harder to seat in cases with my 550. I switched to CCI and have had no issues with primers not going off and they seat much better in my press. Thanks for the info guys.

Moltke, bad memory is right, or maybe I just suppressed the occurance. Your post caused me to review how many cases of shells I went through in the past year in my head (5-by the way) and I remembered the biggest malfunction I have ever had in a match. At the Benelli shotgun championship at Rockcastle this spring on the biggest stage there out of 18 stages, I could not pull my trigger after 4-shots. The stage started with 3-slugs then to a jungle run. I think it was 39 targets total. I fired my 3 slugs then the first bird shot and suddenly it felt like my safety was on. It wasn't, the trigger was froze. I got the lowest raw time for the stage (14-seconds) but my overall time was in the 400 second rage with all of the FTE's. A tiny piece of metal broke off the bottom corner of the bolt and it just so happened to get stuck in my trigger. I didn't have any issues after that for the rest of the day or for the 9-stages the next day. This wasn't an ammo issue, this was strictly a gun issue. I even contacted Remington about it since the machining lead to an area with real thin metal (never heard back). If you have a Versamax, look at the front of your bolt. On the front of one of the "rails" is a hole drilled horizontally towards the back of the bolt. The areas to the side and bottom of this hole is very thin. This corner broke off and totally locked up my trigger. If I were to buy another Versamax, I would definitely round this corner off. Thanks for the bad memory, but your right, nothing is perfect. Now I have had 2-malfunctions since I have owned this gun.

9L, PRO and C.O.R.E., they put all the designations on that one. I was referring to the original 9L that came out before the PRO series. I have a very early PRO with the slow twist barrel and it shot poorly with all bullet weights. 8" groups at 25 yards were the norm with anything I could find to put through it. I switched to a Storm Lake barrel and it fixed all my accuracy woes. edit: I forgot about the 4.25" PRO models. I have it in my head that all PRO's are the long version. So it makes sense that they are still designated 9L PRO. To the OP, if it is a recent model, then the barrel should be good, if it is an older model, it may or may not shoot well.

There are 5 models that I know of. The sportsman, turkey, base model, tactical and the competition model. All of the different models have variations. The sportsman is the cheapest of the bunch ($800). That is where I would start for an open gun. The lifter does bite, but C-Rums can take of that. A Versamax is a heavy gun compared to a Benelli. If you are thinking of an Xrail for open that is something to consider.

Thanks guys. All of my questions have been answered. Now it's time for some outlaw steel matches to gauge interest. If there is enough participation then then we might go legit.

You've got it allllll wrong Kurt. I LOVE when other people shoot a Versamax, especially after I get an FTN or something....they're malfunction clearing allows me time to catch back up and beat them! I have never seen a Versamax malfunction during a match in the past 2 years. There always seem to be a couple on the squads I am on and nothing. No issues. I have seen plenty of Benellis and Mossberrgs malfunction. My one malfunction was a round that would not chamber. I have not used Rio shells since. Pick a sportsman model and go from there. You dont get some rubber stuck to your stock, or a fancy color and non functional welded lifter, but you do get a reliable shotgun for $750 bucks.

No sight, 100 yards and in with cheap forster type slugs, it is simply not necessary. I have deer hunted with slug guns for 20 years and have never gone home without one. It is simply point and shoot with a 26" barrel and bead site.

Get a Versamax. It is a heavy beast, but one that has been supremely reliable for me. I went with the Sportsman model. I saved 400 bucks off the standard model and picked up the extended choke tubes I wanted for 17 bucks a piece.

Complete newbie here. I understand the concept of S C and understand the equipment rules for the most part. What I dont understand are the stages. Are the half dozen or so stages the only stages eligable to be shot? Can a person design their own stages for a SC match? Is there a max limit to the number of targets? How many stages are at a typical match? I am curious if a non sanctioned SC type shoot would work for my club since most are not the action shooting (ie: fudd) type. SC seems to be more their style with limited movement.

If it is a 9L then it is not a good barrel. 9L came before the Pro series. If it a late model Pro or a core series then you are OK. Since you said 9L I am going to assume that it is indeed a 9L. I would personally buy the pistol if it is a good price and put an aftermarket or recent stock barrel in it.

A current model stock Pro only needs the Apex comp spring kit and a FSS for USPSA production. Throw a SSS magwell and TTI extensions on your mags and shoot limited minor. Go cheap and invest the rest of your money on pracice and ammo. I always love it when I finish ahead of people who think they can buy their way to the top.

Without knowing what your gunsmith did , it is a guessing game. Put all stock components into your pistol and I bet the light strikes dissapear. S&W designed these guns for law enforcement use. Stock, they pretty much work no matter what. Start messing with them and malfunctions can be introduced. I would only recommend Apex parts to improve the triggers. They are drop in and there are hundreds of reviews extolling their virtues. I am sure there are gunsmiths who do exceptional work, (Burwell) but Apex is the only company I would trust for my M&P's.

I agree about the high bore axis of the XD's. That and magazine issues is the reason why I went with the M&P series of pistols. If the OP can, see if you can get a M&P instead of the XD from your employer. Cost should be about the same on their part.

Are there any plans for different length triggers? The reach looks pretty far forward. I think Apex could move the face of the trigger back to stock length since it is still a hinged trigger. What are the differences with this trigger versus the kits they have already produced with FSS? Is it a new FSS or just a flat faced long reach trigger? I am genuinely interested, I have a lot invested in Apex parts on my guns. If this is truly a better mouse trap I would like to know. If this is their curent system with a long reach flat faced trigger, then I will stick with what I've got.

I have the FIsher unit. It works well and the price can't be beat. It worked for both front and rear sights on my M&P pros and for rear sights on my Glocks. The "tab" that pushes the sights chipped off when I tried it on my Shield. I cleaned it up with a file and had to make a step to have a flat surface again. It still works for my other pistols, but I had to break out the big hammer and punch for the Shield. I wouldn't even try it on an XD. I don't know what is used to install those sights, but My XD's were the biggest PIA to change sights. Heat, cold, small hammer, big hammer, all were used to change my XD sights. The aftermarket sights installed easily and the sight pusher worked fine.

My experience with fire clean was not good. I used to use an 11-87 for 3gun. I replaced it with a Versamax. I cleaned the 11-87, lubed it with fire clean and put it in the closet loaded with buckshot for HD. A couple months later I was getting ready for the Benelli shotgun championship at Rockcastle and grabbed the 11-87 for backup and went to the range for practice. When I went to shoot the 11-87 it would not fire a single round. The fire clean totally froze the firing pin, it was sticky like syrup. This made me sick to my stomach since I have had this gun loaded for HD. I could not imagine needing to fire the gun and having a click instead of a bang. Racking the bolt and getting another click. I cleaned the 11-87 and relubed with slip2000 ewl. No issues since I changed lube and I function check my HD guns much more often. The fire clean was put next to my 3-in-1 oil for oiling hinges and the like.

I have small plunger housing on both of my pistols and have had no issues with the Apex kits. There were a few issues with dead triggers with the small plungers, but I have not experienced that in many thousand of rounds through my pistols with Apex kits.

I think you will be very happy with the poly trigger. To me it felt better than the aluminum on my finger. As far as function, they both felt the same.

A Glock with a standard firing pin can be dry fired with no issues and a snap cap is not required. Issues arise when lightened steel or titanium firing pins are put in the pistols. Titanium is more brittle than steel which can lead to breaks and the lightened steel pins often have so many holes in them there are many thin spots which can also lead to breaks.