bayougump

Sorry for the video quality. Rushing out the house so didn't have Wifi connection to upload in HD quality. The Stock III that has the Titan hammer and one wing disco trigger sucks. It's gritty, feels like it pulls to the right for lack of better words since the disco wing is on the left side. With the 2-wing disco it feels like the trigger pull going back is more balanced. Now once I put the 2-wing disco in the Stock III then I think the trigger will improve. It also needs some more polishing and work too. My primary Stock III and Extreme Stock II have the lightest triggers. My chromed Stock II gave me light strike fits last year and once I cured them I haven't messed with it anymore cuz I rather reliable than chasing a little less weight.

Praetorian, I did a quick video of the triggers on both my Stock II's and both Stock III's before rushing out the door this morning, it's uploading and I will post it here and you can see the differences in my setups. My Extreme Stock II and my primary Stock III have the best triggers by far in my mind. I am sure I could make them all better but since they are reliable 100% except for my backup Stock III since it hasn't even been shot yet but I can tell a big difference in the 1-wing vs 2-wing discos in them. I will be back soon

Those look really nice Henning!!!

Huh?

I had an extra out of my Limited but it won't fit in Stock III for some reason

The Stock III comes with a one wing disco, I got a two wing from LRA

I will try and put up a video of my Stock III with the two wing disco praetorian tonight and will post here.

Well since my work on my first Stock III complete (other than getting the FTF's to subside) I tried fitting my Titan hammer to my other III last night. Of course to use the one piece sear with the Titan you gotta fit the safety leg. So I got out the sandpaper (I'm poor and don't have a dremel, lol) and started sanding away. After sanding and putting it back in and out a few times the safety will work when the hammer is at half cock and when the hammer is all the way back but when the hammer is all the way forward I can put the safety up and pull the trigger hard enough that it will fire. That's never happened to me as far as it not working both all the way forward and all the way back. I'm not sure I can take much more material off or it will end up being too much all around and I'll have a sear that will be garbage. Has anyone else had this. Also on a side note, the two wing disco makes a HUGE difference in my III. I noticed that the one wing almost is like all the resistance is on the left and the trigger almost rides to the right side when pulling it back. It's weird and kinda hard to explain. I got a 2 wing disco but the holes to attach to the hammer are super small and the pin won't even go in if I try attaching to the hammer. Has anyone else had to ream or make the hole bigger in a two wing disco? All my others I never had to.

I got faith that my III's will run just as good as my II's soon as I get them tooned up right and broke in

So I'm driving myself nuts now. I have nearly the same set up. Uncut Light EG Light hammer and FP springs, Henning G4 giring pin, Titan Hammer, one piece sear, and the one leg disconnector that comes with the new S3's. Everything all fitted and polished up. So I primed some cases and went out to my garage to test them at first i could try all I wanted, but with rem 1-1/2 or CCI SPP nothing would set them off. Then last night I pulled out the firing pin block, and it was able to set off 2 out of 3 of the Remingtons. The third seemed pretty well bashed after repeatedly striking it. I though maybe something was wrong with the primer, but I pulled out my SA STI and it set everything off that the Tanfo couldn't. My question is, is this an accurate way of testing the system, or is there a difference between a primed case and an actual loaded round. Next, does it make sense that my firing pin block would be reducing the energy of the firing pin on the primer? And, lastly what do I do to improve reliability. I havnt had the chance to test yet but i have the factory hammer spring with 2 coils cut i may put back in to try, or i may try clipping a coil or two off the FP spring, does that make sense??? Hope I'm not thread jacking, but i think this trouble shooting would be beneficial to many using these parts. If I need to start a fresh thread, someone just tell me so. So you had improved results by taking the FPB out than within? If so then you may need to get extended FPB or make sure it's fitted to the FP. I only use Federals for my Production guns. They are the same price pretty much for me around here and they just seem to reload better as crazy as that sounds. I make sure I seat them as deep as possible. Last year when I first started with Tanfos I had to try out damn near every combo of hammer spring, FP spring, coils cut, no coils cut, etc etc. Whether this makes sense or not but for me when I'm testing out springs, the tell tale sign for me and my guns is after I pull the trigger, if the hammer ends up flush on the retainer plate (meaning I can't push hammer forward or very little) then I am pretty sure it's good to go. If I can push hammer forward then either FP spring was too long. I would think running the setup you have would set off primers reliably. You could try the EG Medium and see if that works. Sorry you're having the light strike bug. It SUCKS!!!

Stock II would be good but good luck finding one. The Limited Pro is a great gun. Much more readily available than the Stock II's or III's in 9mm

I only had light strike issues last year with my first Stock II but that was due to factors beyond my control. I had it worked on and they messed up and just leave it at that. Once I changed out some of the bad parts and fixed their mistakes I have had 100% ignition except once which was a high primer I didn't catch when case gauging ammo. The Delta Hammer, EG Light hammer and FP springs, and Henning XL Firing pin was the most reliable setup I had. No coils cut off. The only reason I cut a coil off the hammer spring and 2 off the FP spring was because I had extras and just wanted to see if I could make it reliable. It did decrease the trigger pull weight and with the Titan Hammer being heavier and the gen4 henning pin being a tad longer and lighter, I am hoping it will counterbalance the lighter springs. So far around 150 rounds using this setup except with the Delta hammer instead of the Titan and so far all ignited. I won't say it's 100% reliable until I run at least 1000+ with no light strikes. I was shocked just how smooth the trigger turned out using the Delta, 2-wing interruptor, and cut coils EG Light springs. It does seem the hammer does have enough force to ignite in DA. But only time will tell. I will be happy with a 6#ish smooth DA and a 2# SA if it is reliable. I will post up more info once I get more rounds thru the guns.

Well I put the Titan hammer in last night in the Stock III that I had done the trigger job on and had the delta hammer in. I had the one piece sear already fitted to the delta hammer and would need to refit for the Titan. I guess that little bit of difference in size or hammer hook position means it needs a little more taken off the sear leg than with the Delta hammer. I was impressed with it. I'll definitely put it in my other Stock III. I may keep the Delta in the one it's in right now as the trigger is a smooth 6# DA and a 2# SA with an awesome reset. I think using the 2-wing interruptor is the way to go with these hammers. Once I fit the one piece sear in my backup Stock III and get some rounds thru it I'll be able to do a more thorough side by side comparison. Once I get another 2-wing interruptor then I'll have both my stock III's in the same setup except for the hammers and can see what difference the hammers make. I haven't had any light strikes using my Stock III with Delta hammer and Henning gen4 FP and a coil cut off the light EG hammer spring and 2 off the EG light FP spring. This is definitely the lightest and smoothest trigger setup I've had so if it goes 1000 rounds without any light strikes then I will go with it;-)

Yea, mine is a large frame in .38 super

Those look very nice. One more Limited .40 and a Gold Team in .38 super are my next two Tanfos and then my collection will be complete:-)

If we get sizes and you order a package of 100 in some I'd be happy to take some and send you a little dough, can never have too many spare pins

I can't say I've heard anything about excessive amount of Tanfos cracking frames.

I took my Stock III to range Saturday only for a little bit before the rain came and I'm shooting 147 bayous. I had a reduction in FTF's compared to previous trips and when they did FTF, I was able to tap the back of the slide and they went into battery. Any FTF issues is not good but being that they are reducing to me seems that I just need to get it broken in with another 500+ rounds hopefully. I added a little more crimp as well which may have helped. I'm ready for this thing to run 100% so I can start shooting matches. I'm hoping to have my backup Stock III done this week as far as new hammer and trigger job and test it and see if it does the same thing or it runs without any FTF from the get go

FROM EAA

Well damn, got all the parts I have so far fitted, polished, and installed last night... firing pin block doesn't engage, guess i need the oversized block Anyone got a spare? I will say though, that after not shooting an SA/DA for about two years the stock III in factory form is not the most impressive, but dang! Just after doing all the polishing coil clipping spring changing and putting in the Titan hammer with Eric's trigger, it feels phenomenal. I'm getting a 6.75# DA and 3.0# SA with factory trigger and sear spring and the reset is super short! I want to get the lighter ones from EGW You looking for spare extended FPB???

Oh ok, I wasn't sure if was lightened or had slide cuts

Exactly my thoughts. With the Gen4 FP being a tad longer and lighter, I am hopeful that just that little extra will help make it 100% reliable igniting primers

Is it a "lightened" 40 slide you got Atlas?

Hmmm. I may have to try this.... I have used the EG light FP springs and never had to cut any coils off in my Stock II's. I had an extra EG light FP spring and hammer spring so cut 2 off the FP spring and one coil off hammer spring just to see how it'd make the trigger pull weight. It definitely made trigger lighter but I was worried I may get light strikes so I am putting Titan hammer on and along with the longer Gen4 Henning FP, I'm hoping that will counter balance the lighter springs and still give reliability. We'll see once get hammer put in and I put at least 500 rounds thru and if no light strikes then I'll say it's reliable enough to run that setup. Thinking the hammer being heavier and supposedly designed to hit harder that it'll balance it all out:-)

I am using the EG light FP spring and I took off 2 coils