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Seen a few used revolvers that mentioned rust pitting under the rubber grips, I picked up a used 627 which has a small "corrosion line" that would probably lead to pitting if I didn't address it...

The hand?

I have a Paladin Machine 3-position gas block under my extended VTAC handguard. (AR-10T with a custom LW-50 barrel)

Lee Universal, used for LC 5.56 and 7.62 and LOTS of 9mm brass. Never broke a pin. (Used with a Lee hand press) Now the hand deprimer and punch setup I have broken it, and the replacement from Lee costs as much as the kit did.

Ordered 3k .38 Missouri cast bullets and 500 of the same in .45-70, postwoman shoved them all in the mailbox! (Our mailbox is substantially larger than a regular mailbox and it is mounted sideways on the post with 2x4's and secured to the ground with concrete) Guess she was trying to be a smart@ss and trying to break the mailbox off the post, not complaining but it must have been hell to pick them up and put them in the mailbox from a car. In the past I received a note that I had packages to pickup at the post office when my order of 12k precision bullets came in. UPS on the other hand usually climbs over a 5' fence to deliver packages to the door when nobody is home, Fed-Ex is hit or miss as sometimes they just pull up and honk, drop off a note and bail right when I open the door...

I have a Jarvis on a 35 and no complaints but purchased it more for a better supported chamber than lead/polygonal worries. (It's no more accurate than the OEM glock barrel) +1 on cleaning the lead out before switching to jacketed bullets, I have heard the same with .45-70 rifles when switching and they have conventional land/groove barrels. The difficult part is to find some lead bullets that shoot well with the polygonal rifling.

From my understanding it is a RL550 without the auto-prime and the powder measure... It operates the same as the RL550 with the hand rotating shellplate. A bit of savings over the out of the box full featured RL550. I like to use a hand primer for my BIG cases while I watch TV or movies, and I like using my RCBS chargemaster for the powder dispensing. So I insert the primered case into the resizing station with decapping pin removed, then run it to the AT500 powder station where I dump my pre-measured powder pan into the funnel, then to the bullet seating station, and last is a crimp die depending on the caliber.

Ok, first I didn't know that Dillon had this available... My history: My load bench initially consisted of a Co-Ax that I learned to load on, this was a great press and I loved it as it had some GOOD leverage for .338 Lapua compressed rounds and was REALLY easy to convert calibers due to the universal spring loaded shell plate. I then used a Lee hand press for depriming, I don't think I ever tried loading on it. Eventually when I learned the basics of loading I jumped to the Dillon XL650 with accessories, somehow I broke a shellplate but Dillon made it right but I don't recall how it broke but it took out a few things... (Aluminum roller handle makes things too effortless sometimes.) I then watched a buddy load on a Hornady LNL progressive who after igniting a primer tube he boxed it up and sent it back then upgraded to a Dillon RL550. I thought the RL550 was a pretty good press, simple, lots of room, and less stuff to change when converting calibers... I then sold a SVI in .38 Super to a buddy then got him setup to reload with a RL550 package. (I liked the press even more.) So I got my brother started with firearms and then to precision rifles. I moved in with him and took most of my reloading gear and taught him how to reload.... Well I moved out but he kept the Co-Ax and the LEE hand press, he also bought a LEE Classic Cast press for larger calibers that the Co-Ax wouldn't clear. Present: So I get ready to load up some .38spl a week ago and no press, the only press that I have is the XL650 and don't have the caliber conversion for it... Today I ordered a BL550, can act as a single stage and allows me to load the .338 Lapua again. No need to mess with a case feeder, and no powder measure to deal with when using the AT500 powder die and funnel. I can't wait until it gets here, planning on loading .45-70, .338 Lapua, and .308. I don't know if it can load precision rounds like the Co-Ax but for being $10 more than the Co-Ax and being in stock unlike the CoAx I am willing to try it. (I wasn't referring to needing precision .45-70 rounds either.)

Smoother, resulting in more accurate throws.... The newer fail safe system adds some clunkiness for the sake of always working properly or being fail safe. (I tried to convert my newer measure to the old style by removing the fail safe rod and using springs to retract the powder bar. The result was 50rds of .223 that never received powder due to the transfer lever coming out of the powder bar and me not catching it until later, so I went back to using the fail safe rod.) This was on a XL650 so had plenty of things to do/watch for other than the powder measure...

I have one of the older Stainless Rossi short barrel takedown pumps, clone of the 62 Winchester... Not very accurate, LR only, and the breech block and everything else isn't fitted well at all. Other than that it's a fun gun with auto-trigger. Out of the levers I always liked the Marlins and Winchesters, I wrote off the BL-22 years ago when I seen a parts breakdown of it. (Complicated, just like their high/low walls) Now if Marlin would come out with a stainless takedown model 39A with gray laminate stocks... I would buy it.

Another note, when compared to my 4" 617 10rd the 5" 627PC does not feel as muzzle heavy at all... I purchased the 4" 617 as the 5" inch was not offered and the 6" just seemed too long... I like 5" barrels on revolvers, and if IDPA didn't change the rules I am sure more 5" revolvers would be around. (S&W discontinued the 5" 625 in .45acp back in 2005?) I also have a 4" 625PC inbound but would prefer a 5" if S&W made one. I like the longer sight radius and the balance. (I also like 5" 1911's and 5.3" Glocks.)

I picked up a used but worked over 627 recently and noticed two of the extractor "stars" ears looked to be chipped off. (It dropped the hammer before the cylinder was able to LOCK in position.) I FINALLY received the proper replacement from S&W and now the hammer stops short of the full cock position but the cylinder is locked and this happens for every chamber. When compared to the old extractor star it looks like the outer angles are changed which might be the cause of the problem. Any idea's? Possibly the old extractor star and the hand were fitted and angles adjusted, so the newer replacement does not work? I am newish to revolver workings but have: 340PD, 617 4" 10rd, 625PC, and this 627.

Best: Magpul MOE Worst grip: DPMS Tactical with palm shelf.

I think this was mentioned in past threads but not here... I have an all factory 340PD with ti cylinder and when shooting/reloading fast it seems that extraction of empties gets more difficult. (came close to punching holes in my hand trying to extract) Without rapid firing and reloading I don't have any extraction issues.

Has anyone tried the Blackdog 32rd steel lipped mags with the push button loading feature? I destroyed one mag when trying to clear a jam, Blackdog replaced it. From what I can tell it looks like the back of the left side of the feed lip is hitting under the ejector block? This problem is not exhibited with the plastic lipped mags or the drum...

FWIW: My AR10T shot like crap and after I ordered a new barrel/forend/gas system I noticed that the factory floating hand guard was hitting the back of the gas block... Something easy to check.

Black Dog advertises a Kydex Ruger holster that fits the MK II and 22/45 series with dot attached. http://blackdogmachinellc.net/holster-for-the-ruger-mark-series.aspx I am not sure if it will clear the VQ comp so did not order it. (I did order a few mags/drums for my NC22 upper and am highly impressed with their products.)

I have a Briley 4" extension to stretch my 24" M2 to 28" for trap shooting, no problems at all. (walk in purchase)

Lipski makes a clamp on base that accepts the Lyman 93 MJT which in turn uses Anshutz inserts. ($150 for both) Alternatively JP makes a A2 front sight adjustable gas block that clamps onto the barrel, $100, and PRI makes a nice flip down version and is $170/YHM makes something similar for $80. ("Others" makes clamp on flip down front sights too, but am setting up a NC22 with a RRA NM removable carry handle rear with the JP A2 front sight) Another alternate would be to use a picatinny gas block that clamps to the barrel and then use a q/d front sight.

43gr Varget with winchester lr primers, 405gr lasercast... 1500fps out of a Ruger #1. Groups were deer sized with open sights at 50yds and kicks more than a 12gauge.

I had a chance to shoot one yesterday, can be ghost loaded! Rattles, kinda bulky, more recoil than a M2, heavier than a M2, cheaper than a M2.

Went through mine and stoned/deburred lots of stuff, you can lighten the trigger a bit with the screw that hit the mainspring under the grip but be wary since you might get light strikes. After cleaning it again and stripping it down S&W woulc have did a better job chamfering the barrel end in front of the cylinder but figure in another 10k rounds it will be smoothed over and accuracy will surely improve. For trails or informal IDPA practice I have a Bianchi 7L for a K frame to match the barrel profile and as for speedloader carriers I will more than likely use PVC ones.

Me not shoot competitively, but think that opening up the magwell, polishing th feedramp, and the bolt lightening should be done with someone who has experience with the Benelli. Most of the other parts can be swapped in including the load gate. My 24" was flawless out of the box, so it gained the NC +6 extension tube, NC extended bolt handle and NC bolt release. I had a local machinist mill the bolt down and the next step is to replace the front bead sight and add a mid bead. After that I might have to do something with the load gate.

+1, less of a pain than running into a stuck case with a fully loaded tool head. (picked up range brass from an overly large chambered something)

if you use your own upper I might be interested in one if semi-auto, have to factor in the SBR costs... Definately involves a cool factor