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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About bgary

  • Rank
    Burned Out
  • Birthday 01/24/1911

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  • Location
    Everett, WA (US)
  • Interests
    USPSA/IPSC, 3-gun, etc
  • Real Name
    Bruce Gary

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  1. Max won all 8 Area matches in 1 year, but I don't think he won the Nationals in that same year...
  2. If I can help (even if just to bounce ideas around), let me know area1 "at" uspsa "dot" org Bruce
  3. I ran a stage this past weekend at the WA-state match, and was sorta surprised at the number of people who run a second optic on a canted mount (eg. a 45-degree mount on the right side of the rail) I've only been shooting PCC for a few months, and haven't felt the "need" for a second optic. I run a canted dot on my 3-gun AR, but that seems like a different scenario - the dot for up-close and a magnified optic for further out, since all the distances are pretty much "up close" for a PCC in a pistol match, it doesn't seem like that's the reason. What's the advantage of a second/canted optic? How often is it "needed"? Is it primarily for stages where you have to lean toward weak-side around a wall or obstacle? Or....? ...and, having been working to keep my PCC light... is it worth the weight? Thx, Bruce
  4. I'm using the stock spring and 5 tungsten weights (basically the same as their 5H5 model), it works great for me.
  5. Hmmm.... all I "know" at this point is what I've read, and the gen-3 was described as the new model with comp and timney trigger. That's what I bought. Is that what you're calling the PCC model?
  6. I recently picked up a gen-3 MPX, and now I'm paying attention to all the places where someone mentions gen-1 magazines or gen-2 magazines. Are there differences I should care about? Are there ways to tell the difference at a glance? Will older (gen-1) mags work in a gen-3 MPX? Is there such a thing as a gen-3 magazine? Anything else I should know? Thx...
  7. G10 is a laminated composite, just like carbon fiber is. cloth saturated with epoxy resin. The main difference between G10 and carbon fiber is that the "matrix" in G10 is woven glass cloth, where in carbon fiber the matrix is, well, woven carbon-fiber cloth. G10 tubes are available off the shelf in a whole variety of sizes... https://www.mcmaster.com/grade-g-10/fr4-garolite-tubing It won't be quite as light as CF for the same lay-up thickness, but should otherwise have very similar characteristics.
  8. I called Lilja at one point to ask about some precision barrels. He echo'd most of the above - a simple break-in routine at the beginning. From there, though, he laughed and said "nothing goes down the bore but bullets". He said he never cleans a barrel other than perhaps a wet patch from time to time. Said he cringes when he sees people shoving copper brushes down the bore, "all they're doing is taking rounds off the life of the barrel". $.02
  9. <I was trying to say it without posting a spoiler...>
  10. Smaller role, but I think Lady Mormont rocks....
  11. I probably will be. Or, at the very least, will try it. Among the hodge-podge of parts I've amassed, I've got a handful of JP weights and a "short-stroke conversion kit". At the moment I'm running the GMR-13 with the stock buffer (3 steel weights, 1 tungsten, IIRC), and figure I'll try a variety of combinations when I start tuning for feel and dot-bounce. From my notes: Brian said that adding the weight to the HD buffer would short-stroke it. It adds 2.6oz of weight and 3/4" of length to the buffer, "slows the bolt and short-strokes the system". He did say, though, that in his opinion short-stroking reduces the feel of the bolt slamming forward but "doesn't affect speed". He also said that in his testing, loads running around 140PF seemed to produce the best feel. ymmv.... Bruce
  12. When I ordered the Blitzkrieg buffer, I called and asked about spacers (because the secret-sauce my friends had told me was buffer+spacer+wave-spring). Brian said that his new "HD" buffer works better than the old buffer+spacer+wave-spring combination, and that if I really wanted extra weight he recommended the (2.6oz) add-on weight. Haven't tried it yet, but... that was the guidance.
  13. I'm in the middle of doing this, and so take this with a grain of salt, but... I'm chasing this from the other direction. My current efforts are to find a load I like - consistent, accurate-enough, runs the gun reliably, works the comp (JP 14.5" barrel with their pinned/welded comp). I've tried a number of factory loads, including -- S&B 124gr (~150PF, pretty consistent, ran okay, but felt "snappy") -- WWB-124gr (~160PF, worked the comp, but not very consistent, either across the chrono or on paper) -- T-1 124gr "PCC" load (~135PF, ran fine but huge spread - over 80fps difference across a 10-round chrono run) -- Federal "SynTech" 130gr PCC load (~138PF, best of the bunch in terms of accuracy and consistency, but felt "mushy") Based on that... I'm working up my own load. Starting with N320 under a 124gr MG as others have mentioned here. I know I can build consistent ammo, and I'll be able to compare the "feel" with the factory loads I've tried to see what feels good. Then, my thought is, once I have a load I like I'll tune the gun to suit. I have a blitz buffer and JP spring, I have a Shooting Innovations buffer, and I also have a handful of weights for the (stock) JP-SCS I can use in various combinations. Somewhere along the way I'm pretty sure I'll find a combination that feels right. Open to ideas, if I'm thinking about this wrong. $.02
  14. For my GMR-13, I just put a piece of skateboard tape on the stock mag-release. (I didn;t need more leverage, the JP mag release works great, I just wanted something to index my finger on, and this works like a champ for me)
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