ltdmstr

5/8-18 is standard fine thread and would seem to be a good choice for 9mm. Regarding 1/2" threads on a 9mm barrel, at the base of the threads the barrel od is .450. So that gives you .095 barrel thickness at the thinnest point (assuming SAAMI spec .355 groove diameter).

5/8-24 is used for .30 cal. Some of those may be too tight for 9mm. I agree, 1/2-28 is dumb for 9mm. The barrels I've seen with that come with that thread have a big warning. But that doesn't eliminate the chance for accidents. For the 1/2 thread 9mm barrels with pinned and welded comps, I cut a horizontal groove at the bottom, then lay the pin in it and weld up the groove, which makes it permanent. If you put a pin in vertically, it's probably not going to be set deep enough in the barrel to make it secure.

N320 has a relatively fast burn rate. It works very well in 9, .38 Special, .40 and .45.

And opposite ends of the spectrum in terms of quality.

Arsenals are excellent quality. And SAM7 is close to perfection for a milled AK. But be aware that the milled receiver adds some weight vs. stamped.

Carolina Shooter Supply is getting matching number Romanian parts kits. Pretty good deal at $529. All you need is a receiver and rivets for a complete rifle.

I've been using the CMC PCC trigger for about a year. It's nice and crisp and so far 100% reliable. It's not the lightest, but I really don't need a pound and a-half or two pound trigger on a PCC.

Best available imports are the Bulgarian models sold by Arsenal. But, like anything gun-related these days, they're few and far between. So, if you do find a decent one, expect to pay top dollar. For domestic sources, there's Rifle Dynamics, Krebs and Kalishnikov USA.

Straighten the paper clip and bend it to shape, wrap it around the screw with one end up against the shell plate and the other end up against the notch cut in the machine body, then tighten the screw. I guess on second thought, it might take a whole minute.

You can make one in about 30 second with a paper clip or piece of spring wire.

How is the situation with Dillon any worse then with just about any other company in the industry? Fact is, you and others have no idea what's going on with Dillon or why. So to make baseless accusations in pretty irresponsible. Have you tried buying AR parts lately? Or a suppressor? Or ammo? Things are bad all around. It's not unique to Dillon.

Nice bikes are like nice guns. They just work better and are more fun to use. And they don't break constantly when you beat on them. My other bike is a Moots Psychlo-X. Converted to 1x11 last year and it's awesome.

07 FFL for manufacturer is what you need if you're going to produce a functioning firearm. Single biggest piece of advice is If you're going to partner with someone and there's a chance it's going to be a commercial venture, hammer out an agreement up front when everyone is friends and getting along. If you don't, chances are very good you'll regret it, and possibly in a very big way. How extensive the changes are is a factor in how you do this. Used to be you could get unmachined AR lowers for dirt cheap. Not sure that's the case any more. You could possibly buy partially machined lowers or maybe even modify a stock lower. Maybe take a look at some of the early AR9 configurations and see how those were done. Another thing to consider for prototyping is 3D printing. That's not going to hold up for actual use, but would be good for modeling and validation. Given the number of people doing ARs, I'd think there has to be some open source software out there for CNC that could be modified to change certain design elements. If that's the case, anyone familiar with the software should be able to do it pretty easily.

I'm still riding an IF Ti Deluxe single speed 29er that's prob 10-15 years old. Guess that's kinda like shooting single stack.

Government contracts are very different because the government being a sovereign entity gets to dictate the terms of the transaction. It's not an arms length negotiation between equals, like in the commercial world. Also, government contracts typically include terms that allow them to terminate for default and recover excess reprocurement costs and/or terminate for convenience. Some of the remedies available to the government aren't available to commercial customers, and even if they are, require expensive litigation and take a long time to play out. Smart businesses are much more careful with government contracts than with commercial contracts because the consequences to screwing up are usually more severe.

Are you suggesting Dillon's problems are due to them having one supplier and/or not having contingency plans? Those are some pretty bold assumptions to base your argument on. And regarding your replacement part, do you know for fact there was malfeasance, or is that more speculation? I understand you're upset, but that's not an excuse to post a bunch of b.s. that has no basis in reality.

I don't think it's fair for people to be griping about shortages for all kinds of stuff when current demand is a clearly unprecedented and due to events that were unforseeable. If Dillon had a big backlog before all this happened, I'd say that might indicate something was wrong on their end. But even then, if they had limited supply chain options, shortages might be beyond their control. If you have to rely on outside vendors for castings, forgings or parts for manufacturing, and there are only a limited number of sources, you don't get to dictate what you'll get and when. You can do you're best to plan and order ahead, but what actually gets delivered and when could be beyond your control. And for most companies, it's not practical or desirable to bring certain types of work in house. So they have no choice. I highly doubt the people at Dillon are happy with a huge backlog and griping customers. And I fully suspect that if they had a way to speed things up they would. But like everyone else, making a wish and blinking their eyes isn't going to work.

Installation is key. 1. Do a dry run and check part fitment, screw length, etc. 2. Clean everything thoroughly before assembly, particularly male screw threads and female slide, plate and t-nut threads. 3. Use the correct locking compound for your parts (most recommend Vibra-Tite VC-3). 4. Use a torque wrench or torque limiter and don't over torque the screws. 5. Put a dot from a paint pen (sold at crafter stores) or spot of nail polish on the screw heads then check them every once in a while. If they start to move, you should have plenty of time to notice before it gets to the point that your optic goes airborne.

Sorry, duplicate post.

The computer chips situation for the auto makers happened because there's only like two or three suppliers for the chips the car companies use. And those companies produce chips for a lot of other stuff besides auto parts, so there are very long lead times. Also, the car companies rely on suppliers for the chips and those suppliers didn't anticipate auto production recovering as fast as it did (actually, they ignored warnings from the auto makers). So by the time they got off their butts and ordered more chips, there was nothing they could do but wait. Regarding Dillon, they probably rely on vendors for castings, forgings and machined parts. All critical stuff they don't make in house. And most likely the number of available sources is limited, and all of those are plenty busy with whatever else it is they're doing. If there was excess capacity somewhere, I'm pretty sure the problem wouldn't exist.

I built my own with a JP upper/lower/BCG and combination of other mfrs for the rest. It just wasn't worth it to buy a complete rifle with the amount of stuff I was going to change out. Most is the same stuff I have on all my other rifles and just what I like and what I'm used to. On the weight question, some people seem to like super light rifles. But personally, I don't want something that feels like a plastic squirt gun. I just don't find that beneficial in any way. I'd say compact and light is the way to go, but in moderation.

I have a C&H PWS V4 Mil/LEO mount and RMR on my G17/5 MOS. Mount fits great and seems solid. No issues so far.

Pretty decent video. Only thing I don't get is his comments on the case feeders. I three of the older RL1050s and all have the newest style variable-speed casefeeders. They mount and work just fine with no modifications to anything.

Mine took just about 12 weeks to the day. It even had a note on the invoice that came with it not to ship before a certain date. From what I've seen, you can expect 3-4 months for most of the common stuff, but longer for high demand items.

I also have a ton of spare 1050 parts, mostly take-offs from machines I rebuilt over the years. Stuff might not be cosmetically perfect, but should work fine. So, if someone needs small parts, let me know.