kneelingatlas

Is this true in IPSC? As I am aware it's not legal in USPSA.

All you need is a little Eastern European steel in your hand to turn that around!

I have the same thing in mind for when I get around to it: 11 degrees (pretty sure...) and flat on the front. Mine will also have a portless comp to extend the sight radius and create a "sight tracker" effect.

I just use sand paper on the tip of my finger.

I guess it all depends what you're used to... I came to this game from Olympic rapid fire with a trigger set at 47g (~1.7oz); next to that my TS is no problem.

I could do what you're talking about, I considered it once upon a time with a slide safety Jericho. The Tanfo would be a pretty straight forward conversion, but even if you pulled it off, the resultant abortion would be worthless to anyone but you. If you want to do it for the hell of it, just to see if you can, I'd be happy to provide ideas and dimentions, but it would be much more cost effective/simpler to get a frame safety gun to start.

^+1^ I'll add: make some new friends at the next match. If you show up early and help set up, chances are good between the guys you're helping they have all the guns you're considering sitting at home in the safe. I have a half dozen Production guns, two Limited, three Open guns and two belts; if you were near me I'd be happy to let you try anything you want.

Try trading for some Clays, I'd make that trade if I were local.

Open or Production?

I have Tanfo slides with three different dovetail sizes (smallest to largest): super sight, standard steel, Match.

As I remember the Tanfo Super Sight dove tail is roughly the same as a Bomar type so you should be able to get some 2011 Rackers to work.

The video states a peak muzzle pressure of 6900psi, which I'd be willing to bet is formulated from a slow burning powder like N105 in a 5" barrel, maybe the OP can clue us in, but if the powder were faster or the barrel shorter, that number would go down.

From what's being said here I'm beginning to think the size of the exit holes is not as critical to performance as I once thought... Does anyone have any experience with say .375" holes and .400" holes in the same comp?

This is something which has baffled me for some time surrounding the "right" way to tune a pistol. It makes sense that the spring doing to full compression with wear it out rather quickly, therefore the slide should impact the frame at its most rearward position, but if that's the case why do people use shock buffers? If the slide still impacts the frame the buffer does nothing right? If the buffer shortens the stroke by inducing coil bind you still have the same problem with springs don't you?

Alma, the way I have my TS set up I don't know if there's any 'feel' to describe; very little pre travel, very little over travel, just point and click. If you prefer the looks of the old one I don't think there's a reason to change. The difference in pull weight I saw was likely due to the evolution of my polishing technique between hammers; as far as I could tell the hooks are exactly the same.

Good point!

Every once in a while I think a .357 SIG open gun would be fun to play with, but then remember why I shoot 9x19 instead of .38 super...

Very cool!

With the extended FP there's not a lot of room for error; the first time I did it everything looked good but when I applied the decocker on a loaded chamber BOOM!!! It's hard to get the rear of the pin tucked all the way inside the retainer plate without any pin sticking out the front.

All thing being equal you will get more light strikes than with the stock spring. They do this to mitigate the chances of a new recoil spring increasing slide velocity to the point where a worn firing pin spring cannot stop the firing pin before striking the primer as the slide returns to battery.

I wanted to be sure and correct my post so I didn't point anyone down the wrong road

Suggestion retracted: the FP channel is a different depth so the short springs won't work.

kneelingatlas, which glock model mag pouch is this? The 9mm/.40 models

Does anyone have a rear sight screw? I'm missing the one from my Match. A complete Match rear sight would work too, or maybe a Novak style fixed rear like this one: I'd also take the fixed rear from the Baby Eagle II or TriStar.