kneelingatlas

I've seen the lugs peen over pretty fast on a one lug compact small frame barrel I was shooting major out of, so the idea makes sense to me. When the bullet is in the barrel it's the frictional force opposing the bullet which pulls the barrel forward and combined with the recoil/hammer spring keeps it locked up, then once the bullet is free of the rifling the gas hitting the baffles in the comp and the recoil spring continue to hold the barrel locked up, but with a smaller force. This tells me that with a non'comped gun the forces are clear and distinct: the barrel is locked by the bullet in the barrel, then the instant the bullet leaves the barrel the action unlocks and cycles, but in the comped Open gun, that point where the action unlocks is less distinct. As the gas pressures wain the recoiling force more gradually overcomes the forward pressure on the comp, so there is much more opportunity for slippage at the lugs which is exacerbated by slow powders, light springs and rounded firing pin stop plates (all the things we do to make the gun shoot flatter).

:roflol:

You've never felt mine The FPB reset can be drastically reduced with mods to the trigger bar and FPB lifter arm. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=191773&p=2157067

The 9" barrel was for SSE right? I'm from San Diego so I can commiserate

Where did you get the comp? Is it Tanfo specific? That's bigger than a 2011 cone...

I've never seen a reason to get the aluminum body (just adds weight and expense), I own both click and standard plastic bodies, at first I wanted the click because I was afraid of the rheostat moving while shooting, but now that I have some standard switches too that hasn't proven to be a problem, so I prefer the standard: it's the cheapest and smoothest to operate

Jase,This sounds completely made up. I've never used dykem (I just use a felt pen), but as I understand it's just ink. Maybe and engineer can add more info. As far as fitting, Tanfoglio replacement barrels are basically drop in with one file to fit pad right here: I have a gunsmith fit Briley 6" 9mm barrel if you're looking for something which needs extensive fitting. I just never got around to using it because it need so much work.

I go back and forth on this issue, I've owned Shadows tuned by Mink, CZC, as well as factory SP01s and I can tell you this: an SP01 tuned as far as possible has a lighter trigger and a shorter reset than a tuned Shadow from one of the big builders. The reason is this: these smiths charge what? $125 for an action job, that's basically one hour (two max) of professional service, but to tune a CZ as far as it can be taken takes easily 4-6 times that much time, how many people would pay five times as much for an action job which is maybe 20% better? So they hit the low hanging fruit for a drastic improvement over stock and ship it out. If you're crazy like me and can't help but do it all over again anyway, can you really justify the extra cost for a Shadow? I know in theory the Shadow has a better potential, but between my best work on a Shadow and my best work on an SP01 I have a hard time telling the difference.

It sounds like your issue is an installation one, did you install the hammer strut backwards?

Jim, Slower powders hit harder in the hands than faster powders at the same PF. If you want a softer impulse, try a heavier bullet (200 or 220), keep in mind with a heavier bullet you need to drop the powder charge way down and work back up with a chrono watching for flat primers and finishing gains in velocity. 231 and TG should be able to make major with 200s, but depending on your OAL, with 220s they may reach their limit before you make major.

Too light and it won't strip the next round out of the mag.

Under 2# with a 20# hammer spring, factory hammer, trigger and sear. Boom!

Where the trigger sits depends on the sear, trigger bar and hammer, different tolerances will go from slightly forward to slightly rearward, I wouldn't count on either without a lot of parts to try.

I too like to extrapolate, I like to have a baseline for each gun with each load so I can pretty much nail it where I want to me by the second time out. As a hopeless experimenter I have tons of data so I can estimate correlations between guns, powder, bullets even calibers.

What? the picture? I know, there are two more racks on top shelf and guns slid in around them

You do realize you're typing this on social media don't you?

I'm an addict!

SAO and flat trigger install is pretty easy, shouldn't have any trouble, but if you do, just ask.

I draw DA regardless

They appear to be

I measured the coil diameter of a bunch of new springs and this is what I got: Recoil springs: 10# - 0.0385" 11# - 0.0390" 12# - 0.0400" 13# - 0.0405" 14# - 0.0415" CZ Hammer springs: 8.5# - 0.0335" 11.5# - 0.0375" 13# - 0.0390" EAA Short Hammer Springs: 13# - 0.0285" 14# - 0.0315" 15# - 0.0315" 16# - 0.0315" 22# - 0.0345" I would imagine there's some variation, but at least it gives you an idea.

38 Super vs Supercomp vs TJ

The difference between large frame and small frame pistols is the same as long action vs short action rifles; it has more to do with the cartridges it's designed for than the physical dimensions. The one with the black grips is small framed the one with the wood grips is large framed; the outside dimentions are largely identical although the small frame has a slightly deeper undercut of the beaver tail.

I'm confused, you don't think you're skilled enough for Open so you're planning to build a custom gun which will handicap you when shooting Open? Are you intimidated loading major ammo? This sport is about you and your enjoyment, not about how others judge your performance or worthiness

I load as long as 1.170" (tried 1.189" once and it gave me random mag issues) with 115s in small frame mags, my go to load for Production is a 135gr Xtreme at 1.135", I've loaded Frontier cast 147s out to 1.140" and the 135s out to 1.165".