kneelingatlas

Here's R.Elliot's fire breathing 38 shooting Lil' Gun:

Major for everything, sounds like a plan What type of gun are you shooting? and what powders do you have available?

If you want to see just how flat flat could be, load a 95 or 100gr bullet over a whole case full of a really slow powder like AA#9, N105 or H110. A load like that makes a super flat steel load, but when PF is not an issue I actually prefer a light bullet with just a fleck of Clays in an Open gun with no comp. It's soft and quick!

Edrick, I have one of Jared's comps just waiting for a project

Dustin, If you shot a buddy's gun at major and yours with minor ammo, you're comparing apples to oranges. Do you reload? If you want to shoot Open major, step one is to develop a safe load which makes major in your gun, step two is to experiment with different loads to see what you might like better (or what you might shoot faster if that's you're goal).

A lighter recoil spring would probably help you cycle light factory loads.

Mike, I agree that a ransom rest would be a useful tool and also that an individuals strength and technique play a role in how flat a gun shoots, but most of all I'm excited to see we seem to agree that "flatness" is a real, measurable thing in objective reality

While I'll concede that the flattest gun in your hands may not necessarily lead to the highest hit factors or be the most pleasurable for you to shoot there is definitely an objective, measurable distance the muzzle rises when a shot is fired; this distance vary between shooters for all the reasons you mentioned, but to say muzzle rise is subjective is just not true. I don't necessarily believe there is a direct correlation between "flatness" and hit factor. I do not play with loads, comps and guns because I think the equipment is what's holding me back from my GM card, I strive for a flat shooting Open gun because it interests me. I'm curious about the effects of different powders, gun weights, so I experiment. It's presumptuous to assume that every shooter has the same goals and desires you do, for some people the science of reloading really does it for them, for others it's the competition and performance, for me, the gun smithing and tinkering take precedence; I really shoot local matches primarily to try out my new toys.

I need to do a lot more load development first, but we have plans to do some comparative slow mo videos in front of a checker board.

Some discussion here: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=194707 Here's my Bedell super shorty shooting 9mm (9.4gr SP2 under 115gr): and here's a slow mo video a friend grabbed when I was chronoing 38 super loads with two different barrel/comp setups (Bedell and Benny Hill), unfortunately we didn't note which load it was

In case anyone is interested I just fit a fiber optic front sight to my .22 conversion, I modified the Dawson Precision sight for the Desert Eagle (0.225" tall): http://www.dawsonprecision.com/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=800019E6-1398439449

Nope, CA buyer got aced out

Your CZC Shadow likely has a 13# hammer spring, like brisix says, a lighter hammer spring and a little dry fire and the DA stroke will be no problem

Hmmmm I guess I should count mine Actually I think I only have six at the moment

Then I would load something like ten rounds each of 3n38 with charges ranging from 9-11gr, then maybe two charge weights each (.5 gr apart) for the other powders. That should get you a great bit of data to start.

25 loads or 25 trips, the choice is yours You have a lot of powders to choose from, but which do you have the most of? If you spend half a pound developing the perfect load, then only have half a pound left to shoot, you'll spend years hunting for more of that powder. The trouble with load development is there are enough options to make your head spin. I suggest you bring a bunch of test loads for the powder you have the most of or the one you can most easily get more of, then just one or two loads each of all the powders you have, just to get some baseline data and a good idea where the powders line up with one another. That way on your next trip you can hopefully get pretty close to where you want to be in all the powders and can compare. If you want to drop one to make it simpler, I would drop Autocomp, it's the fastest of the group and would likely be less than optimal for 38. You can also compare published load data for the different powders to get a ball park idea of where to start.

Talk to Bob King for TS holsters

Unfortunately Mike, that's not true either: Regrettably I had to drop the hammer of empirical evidence on Angus over on the CZ Forum a while back with regards to the SP01 barrels: How about in the US? or Czechoslovakia? Angus, I hate to be a gadfly, but it just really bugs me. The 2012 CZ USA catalog lists the SP-01 with a 4.72" (120mm) barrel, the 2013 CZ USA lists the SP-01 with a 4.61" (117mm) barrel and the CZ UB 2013-2014 catalog list the SP-01 with a 114mm (4.49") barrel which matches reality when measured from the breech to the muzzle just like SAAMI specifications: "BARREL LENGTH: On shoulder arms and most handguns the distance between the muzzle of the barrel and the face of the breech block or bolt. On revolvers, it is the overall length of the barrel only, including the portion within the frame." http://www.saami.org/glossary/display.cfm?letter=b I'll bet an Aussie barrel when measured from breech to muzzle is exactly 120mm (4.72") per the minimum barrel length requirement in Australia: http://www.ssaa.org.au/stories/handguns-the-handgun-in-australia-today.html#.Uk9UUhCGfYQ Back in May Zach Hein promised he would fix the measurements in next years catalog, which I'll greet with great gratitude. [/RANT] :-X This has been a pet peeve of mine for quite some time: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=194708&p=2159251

Yes, the Baby Eagle platform is compatible with the Tanfoglios (in fact I'm pretty sure the parts are made in the Tanfo plant and shipped to Israel for assembly).

That was exactly the point of this thread You've made me proud, enjoy your CZs!

What, my one word answer wasn't good enough?!? What else would you like to know?

My company has four Acura TLs, three of which have over 200K miles on them; I can't say enough great things about these cars. We've only owned one Infinity, a 2003 Q45, great car but it burned oil from day one, it also has over 200K miles on it. Based on the cars I would say Acura hands down (their service is great too), but I don't have a lot of experience with the crossover vehicles: my mom has an MDX and I have a Murano that are both descent, relatively reliable vehicles, but nothing to get excited about. Any particular reason you've ruled out Lexus?

From what I've heard from people in the industry the manufacturer/dealer relationship is very disfuncional all the way down to the compensation of the mechanics doing the work; I've been told the mechanics are paid on a piece work basis with warranty work being the least and frivolous maintenance work being the most, which explains the upselling to things like "brake system flush" and "that filter is starting to look dirty".

You can call me Atlas

http://blog.westernpowders.com/2014/11/powder-position-and-pressure/ I just read this article on the Ramshot blog, anyone have any experience to share?