fishsticks

3.7 gr TG at 1.1" made 131 PF out of my CZ.

I'd suggest getting one of the books by either Ben Stoeger or Steve Anderson. Plenty of transition drills there. I believe you are local in PDX? If so, send me a pm and I'll get you contact info for a very good instructor. You've probably seen his group out in force at local matches. One of the things we've worked a lot on is target transitions. The good news is this is an easy skill to work in dry fire.

Correct, but like the poster above indicated you still need the holster to have been moulded to match the pistol model. The thumb screws are just to adjust tension, not fit.

Thanks for the info folks. Now I've got somewhere to start.

Would this work? http://www.msgfileviewer.com I googled "open .msg with iPad" which had a number of returns. Some free and some with cost.

Following this thread as I have 4# to try. Was considering 4.5 gr with 180 gr Bayou at 1.2" out of a 5" 2011. Based on the info here that should be in the ball park for major. For those that haven't, can you share the COAL as well? I can make some educated guesses based on pistol if given, but load info is much more useful when you have the COAL.

Not to sound too harsh, but something's not right if the failure rate is that high. Others have said it elsewhere in this thread, but the place to start is by sizing rounds and making sure they gauge. Once they all pass there, make sure you're only belling enough to seat the bullet without shaving it. Finally, set the crimp and do a final check on sizing. It isn't unrealistic to expect near 100% reliability from reloads. At a minimum gauge or barrel check match ammo. The truly OCD approach is to gauge or barrel check every round.

I've been very pleased with Invictus practical. Good equipment and outstanding service. Do a quick search and you'll find lots of good reviews.

Even the article linked above says no form needed for suppressors. I agree, but TSA is TSA. Which is to say uneducated about a lot of stuff. May be he could tell them it's musical instrument. And I agree that the TSA agents at the gate may not always be the best informed. Which is why the traveler should be. For purposes of travel a suppressor is treated as a firearm, not an NFA item. NFA items requiring a 5320.20 are called out on the form and include "machinegun, short- barreled rifle, or short-barreled shotgun is required under the provisions of Section 922 (a)(4), Title 18, U.S.C., and Section 478.28, Title 27, CFR" Perhaps a copy of this page (https://www.tsa.gov/travel/transporting-firearms-and-ammunition) from their website printed out with the following definition highlighted in addition to the aforementioned copy of the tax stamp would help. United States Code, Title 18, Part 1, Chapter 44, firearm definitions includes: any weapon (including a starter gun) which will, or is designed to, or may readily be converted to expel a projectile by the action of an explosive; the frame or receiver of any such weapon; any firearm muffler or firearm silencer; and any destructive device. As defined by 49 CFR 1540.5 a loaded firearm has a live round of ammunition, or any component thereof, in the chamber or cylinder or in a magazine inserted in the firearm.

Agreed, I have the BladeTech on a BOSS hanger for my AccuShadow and it's worked fine. For whatever reason it isn't an exact fit and the gun doesn't "snap" in the way my other Bladetech holsters do. But by using the thumb screws it holds it secure enough without impeding the draw. I wouldn't trust the retention for 3Gun, but it's fine for USPSA.

I'm no pro, but I like darn tough socks. Something for everyone, but this model has served me well. http://darntough.com/men/mens-hike-trek/hiker-1-4-sock-cushion

Even the article linked above says no form needed for suppressors.

My understanding is that no ATF notification is required for interstate travel with a suppressor. Personally, assuming suppressors are legal at the destination I'd lock it in the case with the rifle and a copy of its stamp and check it through as normal.

The ultimate solution for "Glocked" 40 brass is roll sizing through a Case Pro. Since many of us lack the financial umph to go that route the Redding GRX pass through die works too, but doesn't do anything for the extractor groove. Honestly, I don't think that's the issue the OP has, but it might be. I don't think this is the issue since flipping the rounds and gauging them primer down allows them to fit.

Shipping will likely eat up that small difference. What about one of the plastic "universal fit" options? They would be far less expensive. I've cringed both times I bought direct from MGM, but they are sponsors of our sport, all around good people and its top quality stuff so I just gritted my teeth and hit buy.

That's about right.I looked in the manual and here's the proper parts for 40 #5 shell plate (shared with 9mm) "W" powder funnel (9mm uses "F") #2 locator pins (9mm uses #3) So unless you have the wrong powder funnel, all appears well with that part. How about the shell plate adjustment? Any chance it worked loose? The Dillon seat die is just that, a seater. So in theory if everything is properly adjusted it should seat bullets centered every time. Here's where I'm headed with all this---if the bullets are seating off center something is causing it, the question is what? If the shell plate is properly adjusted the next place I'd go is replacing the seat die. Or, at least call Dillon.

I have small hands too, and worried a 2011 grip might be challenging. I have a Cheely with stippled STI plastic grip. Initially I had to "flip" it some to reach the mag release, other than that no issues. Adding a Dawson round big button solved that, and I don't have any trouble hitting it when shooting. It's the first pistol I've had where I could drop a mag without breaking my grip. I can't answer for the CK metal grip, but I can't imagine it would be that different in size.

Stupid question--are you sure you have the right shell plate and locator pins in? And that there isn't excessive play in the tool head? I just ran several hundred 40 S&W using range brass and bayou 180 gr coated today on my 550. They all gauged easily. Thinking about this thread while reloading today made me wonder about the shell plate and tool head.

I like that.. While a vise makes it easier, it's possible to build an entire AR from a box of parts without one. You will however need a big c-clamp, a solid bench and the AR armorers blocks, a few miscellaneous punches and some way to access YouTube.

It doesn't seem to be a rule change, just a clarification of the current rule. Seems like Troy is just clarifying what's been legal for Production the whole time so no need to wait for official ruling to change mag release as it's already legal. At least that's the way I'm reading it. I agree, but.... Until it is published in an official location, it isn't so. Unfortunately, as mike points out above, it's pretty unlikely anybody would get bumped to open for anything short of a flagrant and obvious modification.

One thing that helped with the unsupported in space thing is to find an index where your elbow hits your torso and your wrist is turned so the magwell points to your magazine pouch. In other words, from a firing grip being your arm straight into your body until your elbow hits. Easier to show than write, that's for sure.

For me maybe 1/100 or 1/200 that won't fit in my barrel is about the max I'd put up with. For 40, I dry tumble then run through a redding pass through to clean up any bulged brass. Hit with one-shot and into the 550. Dies in the 550 are all redding, but I think ultimately the u-die in station 1 is where I'll end up. Using 180 gr bayou coated and range brass maybe 1/500 fails both gauge and barrel and often that is because of split brass. For 9mm all is the same except no pass through sizing. Bottom line with the failure rates you're seeing I would think making some changes in set-up would be suggested.

I think this is the answer. Without a chrono stage (as in uspsa handgun) it makes the most sense. Even then above level 1 the staff should be looking at this on every stage. Using practiscore makes this easy as the clipboard RO can compare declared division to equipment. I'm not above making a comment/suggestion to a fellow competitor, but it should really fall to match staff.

If the cases are sticking to the funnel there are a couple things you can try. Are you using some type of case lube (either Dillon one shot or home made?) if not try that. Tumbling- dry or wet? If dry toss in some car wax. Lots of folks use nu-finish. I think you're on the right track, if you backed off belling likely it's an off center issue. Solve the sticking issue, add some bell and you're back in the game.

Email or call Dillon and ask? Their customer service is top notch and I would imagine someone there could answer the question.