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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Avedis

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    Looks for Target

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    Torrance, CA
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    Marcus Avedis

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  1. Owners manual pg 43 https://snwcdnprod.azureedge.net/sites/default/files/owners-manuals/M%26P_Pistol_080118_441300000.pdf "Step 1: Remove the plastic slide cap from the M&P® Pistol slide by unscrewing the two screws using a 5/64˝ hex wrench as shown here (FIGURES 1c & 2c)"
  2. First, obviously, check to make sure the gun is zeroed properly. One of the things I often see when working with my patrol guys is, "my Glock shoots left" Often time it's easily fixed with: 1. articulating trigger finger at different joint 2. more grip pressure (both hands) I'm sure some great shooters here will chime in with their thoughts. Honestly though, with a group like that at 20 yards, you shouldn't be too concerned. Voigt does a great job at explaining it in this video:
  3. Nope, the weights simply replace the batteries that are in there. If you want to switch it back to a normal light, just put the batteries back in.
  4. Streamlight TLR-1 with Tungsten Weights weighs 9.85oz. You can also use any light that takes a CR123 battery, as two of these weights equals the size of one CR123 battery. Weights can be purchased from forum member Solscud007 See photos in link https://imgur.com/a/5Ce73MK
  5. Is your Apex kit a FSS? If so, it is not uncommon for the timing to be slightly off to cause intermittent light primer strikes. One easy way to test to see if the timing is off is to simply take the striker block out of the gun temporarily. If the light strikes go away, you know it's a timing issue (see below for fix). -------------- The gap on your trigger bar loop (candy cane) is opened too far. This allows the striker to be released prior to the striker block clearing. This robs the striker of a significant amount of energy, resulting in light primer strikers. To fix it, reduce the size of the gap on the trigger bar loop. This will fix your timing issue and allow the striker block to fully clear before the striker is released. If you have another M&P, that you know works fine, go dry fire it. It will make a crisp clicking/snapping when dry fired. A gun with incorrect timing will make more of a dull thud noise when dry fired (depending on how off the timing is). Essentially, you are doing the OPPOSITE of this:
  6. Im not 100% sure if you are talking about the actual MSH being too long, or that it fits and the internals are locked-up inside If its the latter, you need to change all the internals: Standard length mainspring (weight of your choice) Mainspring housing pin retainer (that goes at the bottom of the mainspring) Mainspring cap (that goes in the top of the mainspring) You can get them from Dawson of EGW etc: http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/high-quality-11-pc-pin-set-blue/ https://dawsonprecision.com/pin-sets-1911-2011-by-dawson-precision/
  7. Charlie, what is your absolute peak grip strength in each hand (proper firing grip) using the dyno? I'm interested to know what percentage of your peak grip strength you are using to get to the recommended 100lbs.
  8. Avedis

    Shield upgrades

    trigger and sights https://www.twobrostactical.com/collections/m-p/m-p-shield
  9. I believe 4mm, see video below at 0:50 sec, (gen 2 mags) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdM0gtYmUTs
  10. Applied the Caswell stainless blackener gel, worked great. It turned out slightly darker than the PVD Coating that was on the grip, but i'm okay with it. Pictures below, let me know if you have any questions. Stainless (grip was scrubbed and degreased) Applying gel Gel washed off, it leaves an almost charcoal like powder residue on top which needs to be scrubbed off and degreased prior to second/third application of gel Two applications of gel later, grip was rewashed/degreased, then re-oiled.
  11. Thanks for the recommendations. I picked up this stainless blackener from Caswell per their customer service rep's recommendation. https://www.caswellplating.com/stainless-steel-blackener-gel-kit.html I will let you know how it goes.
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