rooster

Thanks, found it.

Hello guys. Does anybody know if there is some kind of squad lists with the names of all the shooters shooting the nine days of nationals? I would like to go and watch the super squad shooting production.

Put stock barrel back in, if problem goes away then your lone wolf barrel is the problem.

CCI changed their primers years ago. Something else is wrong. With a 4.5 spring you should be able to set off any primer made. I’ve shot thousands of CCI primers with a 4.5 spring and never a problem. What else have you done to the gun? Over travel adjusted correctly? Firing pin channel clean? Striker hitting firing pin block?

I thought the same thing to. You got fully loaded stations, the bottom of case to the point where the seating stem hits the bullet should be the same or within a few thou. I guess all the little variables add up. Brass not same size, different bullet oal, case wall thickness, the way you pull the handle, all I know is it used to drive me nuts, so I did the sort thing and it made a huge difference especially with precision delta 124 Jhp’s. I sorted for awhile but what pita, really not needed for this game, plus I shoot a Glock so I don’t do it anymore.

I have a Glock store uncaptured tungsten rod in my 17 and the other day after cleaning I saw that the round end was unscrewing. I thought it was one solid piece. I don’t know why they would do that. You would think that turning threads male and female, and making the button would be more cost than just turning the whole piece. Anyway I put some red locktite on it so it should be good.

Really don’t know. I think over at Taran’s website he gives the dimensions of his pads. I don’t know anything about the gen5 pistols, or their mags. All my glocks are gen 3’s. I think I read somewhere that gen 5 mags are not compatible with any other gens, not-sure if Taran’s pads fit gen 5 guns. I think they only changed the lips because of the ambi mag catch.

The Redding micro adjustable seating die is a top notch die. However if your looking for oal’s within a thou, forget it. It’s all about the bullets and brass. If you got the die because you change bullets a lot that’s where it shines. You just record your settings and you can always go back unless you remove the die, and or take it apart for cleaning. Depending on bullet and you will get variances of + or - .005. Jacket bullets give the best consistency. I can get within a thou and most are spot on. But you have to sort by headstamp. Go to you tube and check out this guy. He has the best instructions on how to set it up. Knowledge2you. You tube wouldn’t let me copy it.

That’s pretty slick.

Could you get an after market slide and have that milled for your optic?

Mute point for either gun with dot. I have both the 17 and 34, I also shoot production too so I had the 17 done because the longer sight radius is better with the 34. Another thing i did was buy a slide from brownells and had it milled for the optic. That way I kept my original slide in case I ever wanted to sell or use as a backup for production.

The Taran’s zero add a little weight and no capacity. The +3+4 add capacity but don’t add as much weight. I have a g34 with his sights and pads and they fit the box. They both add about a half inch of length over stock. Very easy to take off and on.

A couple of Front Sight issues back they did the equipment survey and the delta pro was the top choice. I also looked at quite a few you tube videos about the delta pro and based on all that I bought one. I’ve had it for about 6 months so far I made a good choice. Also if you scout around the price ain’t too bad.

The gun is guaranteed to do it, but I’d like to see it done freestyle.

Me to. Can’t group at 25 no matter how hard I try. Maybe 3 inches on a good day.

Same thing happened to me, and it was driving me crazy. I would get about .005+or- oal. When I went to sorting by headstamp I cut it down to within .001, and most would be spot on. Trouble is takes a lot of time and really not necessary for our game.

IDP, lightened steel striker. https://www.idptactical.com/store/p25/IDP_Custom_Lightweight_Striker_%2F_Firing_pin_Small_Frame_for_Glocks.html i tried a couple of others, they either broke or made trigger pull worse. Don’t get the Tin, get the stainless steel one.

I think that sanding the bottom flat would only work if the dimension of the bottom of the sight to the under side of sight was greater than the depth of the slide dovetail cut. Otherwise I think I would remove material from the sides of sight. It won’t take much so go slowly. When you can push sight about 1/3 of the way in that’s it push rest of way with a sight pusher.

Used to use brake cleaner in the aerosol cans you can get them on sale sometimes for 1.99 , make sure you use non chlorinated. However lately I have been using a product called shooter lube solvent. It’s non hazardous and cleans just as good as the brake cleaner.

Not many people shooting this game leave a stock trigger in a Glock, because they basically suck. The cheapest way to get a better trigger is the good old 25 cent trigger job. After that the sky is the limit from just changing parts to complete aftermarket triggers.

This is a good article about crimp and how to set it. https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=78873.0

I’d get a new gunsmith.

If they plunk in your barrel your good to go. If the rnds sit a little proud in the gauge but fit your barrel you now know that you can get away with that anomaly.

Don’t know anything about your firearm, but do not sand Glock mags. I have an article somewhere and it was stated that sanding Glock mags raises little hairs on the mags as a result of the sanding process. I have used armor all, wax, etc.