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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About njl

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    Beyond it All

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    Apopka, FL
  • Interests
    Shooting guns
    Shooting pictures
    Computers / Networking
  • Real Name
    Jon Lewis

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  1. Same issue. “Best OAL” is highly dependent on the bullet and to some degree the barrel or barrels it needs to work in.
  2. I don't believe there is a "best" load. There are so many choices in bullet types, weights, powders. For games where PF matters, if you want reduced recoil, you probably want heavier than 115gr. I started with 125gr, then shot 147gr for a while, and have now compromised on 135gr.
  3. What's to like about the 150 per tray?
  4. My only complaint with Fiocchi SPP is the 150 per tray packaging. Nobody else does that, and the magazine on my RL550 only holds a little more than 100.
  5. I assume from an unused dryer sheet, and you're basically running it lengthwise down the hopper?
  6. So, my new frames came in, and I had Costco make a set of progressive lenses for them in my new Rx (stronger distance correction and stronger ADD for reading). They had to do it twice, because they screwed up the PD measurement on the first attempt. The end result is a pair of glasses I don't think I can use for much other than driving My old/original progressive lens Rx, the distance vision correction is, I guess, weak enough that I can still focus reasonably close (like a computer screen about 24" away from my face). The issue was, I wasn't satisfied with the distance vision clarity. So, the new Rx gives me sharper distance vision, but pushes my near focus distance out to more like 36". I can't focus on a computer screen or front sight using the distance part of the lens, and as I work at a computer all day, I'm not willing to move my head around as much as would be required to see the screen(s) through the transition portion of the lens that allows me to focus close, but not reading lens close. I guess my options at this point are: Keep the new ones as "driving glasses". Return [the lenses] to Costco for a refund. Go back to the optometrist and figure out a compromise Rx that gives me as clear distance vision as I can get without pushing out my near focus beyond about 24".
  7. I finally got out to the range this past weekend (it'd been a few weeks) and did an hour of IDPA practice (draws, double taps into a target, transition to another target, double tap it, mixing in some 2 to the body / 1 to the head) and did this in my old Rx daily-wear progressives. It worked well, and I think I was seeing better than I do with my Rudy Rydons + distance-only Rx insert. I'm waiting for frames I ordered to arrive so I can order a new Rx in progressives, and it'll be interesting to see if I can shoot in those, but worst case, I think for the time being, my current / old Rx progressives will be my shooting glasses now, at least for non-reactive targets shooting.
  8. You can't accurately shoot an iron sighted pistol without a reasonably clear front sight. The only issue with a slightly fuzzy target is even less chance of seeing bullet holes (knowing if it's worth firing make-ups). I've gotten to the point where I'm curious about shooting in progressives so that hopefully I can get both clear sights and clear targets. One thing I'm curious about (is there an optometrist in the house?) is varying lens heights and progressives, and who/how it's decided where the transition section of the lens begins and ends (i.e. how big the sweet spots are for distance vision, near vision, and how much is used for transition). Is that just formulaic based on the height of the lens, or is it something that can be specified when the lenses are ordered? I was speaking to a coworker the other day who's also in his first set of progressives, and he said he hates them and won't do it again. Comparing our frames, he had much taller lenses, and his biggest complaint was having to look down more than he's comfortable doing to read up close. My daily wear progressives are only about 35mm tall. I have a really old Aviator style frame that has nearly 50mm tall lenses. I wonder, if I got a similar style new frame with PALs, how the layout would compare to my current ones, and if that would be better or worse for shooting (or just different and hard to adjust to)?
  9. In the plastic insert that uses fishing line to hold the lenses, or one of the full frame metal ones?
  10. I was getting kind of bummed after finding that Costco and Sam's Club offer lenses for WAY less than pretty much any other optical shop, but neither will do my Rudy Rx insert. Costco's excuse was it's safety glasses, and they won't do safety glasses. Sam's Club's reason was they get all their lenses done at a remote lab, and if you provide your own frames, they somehow trace the frame and send that info to the lab where the lenses are cut, and then they get assembled at the local store...but with the plastic insert that uses fishing line, there's nothing to trace. Then I found that Rudy sells two metal full-frame inserts, one of which is specifically intended for progressive lenses. I'm guessing Sam's Club might be willing to work with this, and the progressive lenses will end up costing right around $200 installed. Other places, progressives are $500-$600. What insert have any of you using Rudy's with progressive lenses used, and where did you get the Rx lenses done?
  11. If your Rudys have your normal progressive lens Rx in the insert, what adjustment is needed to switch from your daily glasses to the Rudys?
  12. I guess I’d have to say a combination of fear and doubt that all my issues can be solved surgically. My current Rx has correction for distance, astigmatism, prism (for convergence insufficiency), and as of a couple years ago, reading.
  13. So your Hunters Gold glasses are "dedicated shooting glasses" but in your everyday progressive Rx? I suppose the difference between them and your daily wear glasses is better protection and they're probably more secure? After I get a new Rx set of progressives, I'm contemplating whether I should just get another set of progressives for one of my Rudy inserts.
  14. I've been wearing Rudy's for a while now (initially Magster, then Rydon). About 3 years ago, I graduated from single vision to progressive lenses. At that point, I got some "reader" lenses from Rudy for my Rydons, and have gotten by with just distance correction inserts and the bifocal reader part of the outer lens for up close (like my phone, stage descriptions, or the score pad). I just got an updated Rx for one of my inserts and found with the additional correction I needed for distance, I can no longer focus close enough to get a sharp front sight on a pistol. I don't have this problem with my current progressive lenses, but they're not the updated Rx yet. I also pretty much never shoot in my daily wear progressive lenses. I wear the Rydons (with the bifocal outer lenses) for better protection and because they're far less likely to fall off. AFAIK, progressive lens tech keeps getting better (i.e. first there were bifocals, then progressive, now digital progressive, and I was just told that the "custom digital progressives" I got 3 years ago were the best available at the time, but now there's even better). I wonder how many are doing action pistol type shooting with progressive lenses vs the older solutions like having a set of glasses with front sight focus in the dominant eye, distance in the other, or bifocals with the ADD lens higher in the frame than usual? Another option I'm considering is just going without correction. I don't really need correction for up close...the targets will be quite blurry, but maybe not so bad that I can't differentiate threats from non-threats. I also wonder if a set of "computer" glasses would work? I guess the final option is give up on iron sights and go carry-optics, but I'd rather not.
  15. Hmm. That’s not especially short and certainly not weak. Mark your mags (if you haven’t already) and if only one / certain ones ever do this, see if maybe the feed lips have opened up on those.
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