uod

4.0 Titegroup out of the stock G34 barrel at a 1.135 OAL will make minor. Chrono usually gets me at about 132PF with this . I am running Montana Gold 124gr. JHPs.

Given all of the information out there about it being a bad idea to shoot lead out of a polygonal rifled barrel (Glock barrel) ... I would never recommend anyone to do it. Not even once. Get a good aftermarket barrel. I personally use a KKM in my Glock 24. Then you can shoot all the lead you want without the worries.

If you only have easy stages, the new/beginner shooters will never have an opportunity to grow. No matter how hard you make a stage, a beginner shooter can always take it slow and steady and get it done. That's what I tell anyone starting out who is intimidated by a stage. Go slow. Take 2 minutes to shoot it if you have to. Speed with come with time. I have honestly never seen a shooter stop shooting the sport because stages were too hard. Now -- we do need to make a differentiation between hard to shoot, and hard to shoot safely. Those are two different things, and the latter has caused me to lose a few shooters. Designing a stage where a new shooter has to run backwards, reload while running towards the direction of their weak hand, transition around objects, etc could cause a newbie to get DQ'd for breaking the 180. If you have a stage that incorporates these things, it's always good to pull the new shooters aside and let them know what to be careful of.

The iPhone apps are never accurate enough. I tried several of them for a year, and gave up. Get yourself a nice timer --- you won't regret it. The Competition Electronics Pocket Pro II is a great timer and well worth the $120 I spent on it.

That belt will be fine. Belt just has to be secure through your belt loops -- with inner/outer combination belts being good to go. As far as the holster, that question is better answered by knowing the exact holster you are talking about. I don't recall any holsters that are ok in IDPA's version of production that wouldn't be ok in USPSA production.

I always stuck to Titegroup and it has never failed me.

I've never shot coated lead, so I really can't say. I'll get out and get these over a chrono soon again just to be sure.

I just bought 10,000 from Midway yesterday afternoon. Just a few cents over $30 per 1000 after using one of the discount codes I found. Glad to see these are staying in stock.

Glock 24 --- so, not much different than a Glock 35. I use an OAL of 1.135 -- same OAL I use when loading 9mm in my G34. I run 4.4gr Titegroup behind a 180gr Montana Gold JHP. Chronos at 166pf. This is coming out of a KKM barrel BTW.

I run a 12lb ZEV recoil spring (the blue one, uncaptured) in my G34. I'm shooting 124gr. Montana Golds w/ 4.0gr of Titegroup sitting behind it. Power factor is around 133-135.

Signed up to work it a while back. Looking forward to getting back to my home town to do a shoot.

With it being a compact size, I don't think building it into an open gun is a good idea. You can use the G23 in USPSA production or IDPA SSP. As long as you are accurate with it, you can be competitive in either.

The rest are from the new rules that are posted --- the ones that are currently up for discussion in the USPSA forums ( see : http://www.uspsa.org/document_library/2013%20USPSA%20Handgun%20Rules%20Summary%20of%20Changes_web.pdf). . The new rules add to 4.1.2.2 by disallowing the painting of steel in the colors black, red or green. What I was saying was that *IF* the new rules are passed, then stage 2 is illegal for sure.

So -- I noticed something starting to happen on my Glock 34. After shooting some rounds through it, there will be a streak of copper (gold color actually -- because I am reloading with Montana Gold bullets) on the side of my barrel hood towards the bottom on the side that is visible through the ejection port. I've probably got a good 5000 rounds through this gun. Springs are replaced very regularly, as are almost all of the other internals of the gun (save for the barrel itself). For reference --- I reload. I use Montana Gold 124gr JHPs. 3.9gr Titegroup. 1.13 OAL. As I am writing this, I am trying to think of anything different I may have done to the gun since this started happening. This *may* have started to occur after I switched to a lightened recoil spring (Zev spring -- the blue one). I don't quite recall if I switched that out around the same time this started happening. I suppose I should put the stock spring back in tomorrow and give it a try. I'll post a pic tonight if I can. Has anyone seen this happen before? The gun shoots flawlessly, but I can't imagine having pieces of the copper jacket being shaved being a good thing.

Well -- if the new rules get passed, having competitors have to distinguish between blue and red targets may be an issue : 4.1.2.2 The entire front of scoring metal targets must be painted a single color, preferably white, scoring metal targets may not be painted black, red or green. Black represents hard cover; red and green are difficult for color blind competitors.

I thought the same thing at first.... it didn't make sense to wear red w/ a red front sight. Tried it, and never looked back.

As was mentioned, there are tons of things you can do. Here is my list : 1. Reduced striker spring (Zev) 2. Reduced firing pin safety spring (Zev) 3. Lightweight firing pin safety (Zev) 4. Used to use a lighted striker (Lone Wolf), but I went back to stock 5. Grip tape (off the shelf ladder grip tape from Lowes) 6. Stainless Steel Guiderod (Zev) 7. 12lb recoil spring (Zev) 8. Reduced connector (Zev) 9. Reduced trigger spring (Zev) 10. Trigger housing with overtravel stop (Zev) 11. Fiber front and adjustable rear (Dawson Precision)

The round count for our local matches has been kept to around 100 for 5 stages due to the shortage.

I second that. Use the same setup on a G 34 and it is great.

I run red --- and then I use red lenses in my Rudy Projects .... really makes the red dot pop.

As JBP55 said --- changing the springs on a regular basis is key. I try to change mine out before it hits 1000 rounds (sometimes as little as 600 rounds). I am using Winchester primers (a little harder than Federals) and I very rarely have a light strike issue. This is with a lightened striker spring and a skeletonized striker (Lone Wolf).

Welcome to the forum. I lived in Tallahassee for 12 years before recently moving to Charleston. Talon was just getting started on their range when I left. All of the previous USPSA matches were held at my old club (Tallahassee Rifle and Pistol Club). Tallahassee has a great group of USPSA shooters, and the matches are VERY newbie friendly. As was mentioned previously, get in touch with Dave Muller. Just ask around for him when you get to your first match, and let him know you are a new shooter. He'll take good care of you .... and, tell him Bobby from Charleston says hi!

Using a ghost holster. You brought up a good point --- I didn't think about interference with the holster. I'll have to inspect when I get home tonight, but I am thinking that you would be correct.

I'd like to try putting a thumb rest on my Glock 24 now that they are legal in limited. I don't want to have to drill and tap. Ideally, I'd like something that can attach to the front rail. Assuming I can find something like this, would this be legal? The only thing I have found so far is from thespeedledge (I can't post links, but add a www and a dot com to the end of that), but the site doesn't look very legit. I'd also like to find someone who has tried this before I spend the money. The other alternative would be to purchase something like a Carver mount for the Glock (usually used to attach a CMore) and then attach the thumb rest to the screw holes that already exist on the mount. I am assuming that putting a mount like this would not be legal though, correct? And, if it is not legal as-is, is there anything I could do to make it legal? (such as cut down the mount so that I am only getting the front portion that I would be using to attach the thumb rest?) Thanks in advance for any insight that you guys can provide me here.

Is this common for LW barrels? I was thinking about getting one to replace my factory barrel, but I seem to keep hearing about issues with LW. Would KKM or some other barrel be a better choice?